Well I did it just like wub. Clutch and brake sensor are needed. Steering wheel controls. And I used a minivci. The etacs program is pretty cool. I was just looking at the etacs but you need to go into the engine tab then make the 2 cc modes live. It was all simple except trying to shove my giant body under the dash to put the switches inQuote:
Originally Posted by Eggman
Success! I enabled cruise control. My cruise light does not function, but then again, it did not light during the lamp test, so I think Mitsu may have cheaped out and not bothered installing the LED on some ES dashboards.
I bought a 2014 Outlander wheel for the nice leather wrapped upgrade. All the buttons now work except the bluetooth buttons. Perhaps I'll buy the module mentioned in this thread to enable those, too. The buttons light up, too. Wheel feels a lot nicer. :) Decent upgrade. And yes, the airbag from the Mirage fits just fine, and doesn't even look all that much out of place on the Outlander wheel.
I did have to replace the resistors, as mentioned by seanba04. I bought the following 0805 sized SMD resistors from DigiKey:
311-178CRCT-ND -- 178 Ohm 1% resistor
311-287CRCT-ND -- 287 Ohm 1% resistor
311-576CRCT-ND -- 576 Ohm 1% resistor
311-1.74KCRCT-ND -- 1.74 kOhm 1% resistor
I had to buy 10 of each of them to get any reasonable price break. They are dirt cheap, however the shipping is $8. I have 9 of each of them left which are useless to me now.
If you would like 1 of each of these, PM me to send me a self-addressed stamped envelope and I'll send you a set as long as I have any left so you don't have to waste your time/money with DigiKey's shipping (though if you're buying from there anyways, you may as well just throw them in your order, they're only 29 cents each--probably cheaper than sending me the envelope). Not that I think DigiKey is ripping anyone off, $8 shipping is very reasonable considering they arrived the next day, but still, I feel stupid for buying so little. ;)
Just FYI, this is very, very small surface mount soldering. If you don't have a very fine soldering iron and top notch soldering skills, you won't be able to change the resistors. Consider a Mirage wheel instead then. Replace the resistors with the smallest value in the 0 Ohm spot and the largest value replacing the largest value resistor in the vertical row (it will be pretty obvious once you have it apart, they're all in a row, the randomly placed resistors are for the LEDs, leave them alone).
Thanks for sharing your notes.
That's weird I bought a 2014 outlander steering wheel and I did not have to add or replace resistors.Quote:
Originally Posted by shepd
Maybe it's a 2014 vs 2015 thing? I don't know, I just know it didn't work for my 2015 Mirage with the alternate value resistors in the control panel.
One more useful tidbit: The nut you need to buy for the clutch switch is M10 x 1.25. Now you don't need to bring it to the hardware store and try them all out. :P
Maybe this was posted but i happen to stumble across this in the manual when i was looking for something else thought ide post it up might help someone out
well that kinda sucks for the later year guys.Quote:
Originally Posted by shepd
Best way to figure it out is someone with a 2014 could measure resistance between the middle two pins of their cruise panel. Press the cruise on/off button. If you get 0 Ohms, you have the control panel that seanba and I got (that didn't work for us, and is what I suspect a 2014 version). If you get somewhere around 178 Ohms, you have the control panel that us two resoldered ours to be (2015 version?).
Trouble is I only have my 2015 mirage so I have no way to find out if my theory is true. If it is, at least the resistors can be swapped, even if it is a bit of a pain in the ass. If you can find anywhere that still repairs electronics, they'd probably do the job for you for $50 or less if you disassemble things for them and bring them the parts. It's a 5 minute job for someone with the right tools and skills.
Im gonna be doing some stuff for the mirage this weekend. Ill get out my multimeter and take a look. SHouldnt be hard to pin outQuote:
Originally Posted by shepd
I think I might take my cluster ("combination meter" according to Mitsubishi) out to see if the parts are missing for the cruise LED.
It is not because of wiring, that is for sure. According to the service manual, the Cruise LED is controlled by the CPU in the cluster, and the signal is sent via canbus, thus why it can't be a wiring issue if otherwise your cluster works fine.
Only things I can think of are:
- Missing LED
- Missing Resistor
- CPU on non-cruise cluster is not programmed to recognize cruise canbus signal