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Thread: HOW-TO: Stereo / Speaker / Amp Installation (Radio/Speaker/Inner Door Trim Removal)

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by zefke View Post
    Yes that's correct, but if it is really crappy stuff it will even break when it is hot outside!
    That's true, but I had no issues on a sunny 60F day.



  2. #12
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    I used a different approach. Rather than cutting my metal doors or drilling them out to make the speakers fit, I took the old speakers (which act as a spacer) cut the plastic frame of the speakers from the surrounding spacer/frame with a dremmel. Ripped the paper cone off of the surround. I then screwed the new speaker into the remains of the old speaker, and soldered the speaker leads to the new drivers. Then you just screw the frankenspeaker back onto the door and plug the connector in as nature intended.

    This accomplished three things:
    1) no modifications to the door, only the replaceable speakers
    2) kept the stock spacing/height
    3) kept the stock connector intact.

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    Last edited by db1980; 10-18-2014 at 04:01 AM.

  3. #13
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    Not bad, but I didn't mind the drilling because I never put the speakers back. I traded my mirage in July and didn't take any of the speakers out. I just reconnected them to the factory head unit.

    If you order from Crutchfield they include the speaker adaptors which do the same thing as what you made, except for the screwing in part.

    I'm not sure how much your efforts will be rewarded since the usual benefit of plug and play speakers is easily going back to oem but you destroyed the oem speakers to make your plug and play ones.

    That aside, pretty cool idea. I suppose you could always try to grab someone else's oem speakers for cheap. I still have mine I think haha.

    That reminds me, I meant to list the stereo bezel and brackets for sale...

  4. #14
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    Well, I already had speakers, so buying from crutchfield wasnt an option lol.

    I destroyed the OEM speakers, but didnt have to put a screw into my door. Maybe thats just my weird mentality, but I dont plan on selling the car, or swapping any other speakers back in. I just wanted something cleanish without having to modify any door metal.

    With the crutchfield spacers, you have to screw them into the metal still correct?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ancyker View Post
    Not bad, but I didn't mind the drilling because I never put the speakers back. I traded my mirage in July and didn't take any of the speakers out. I just reconnected them to the factory head unit.

    If you order from Crutchfield they include the speaker adaptors which do the same thing as what you made, except for the screwing in part.

    I'm not sure how much your efforts will be rewarded since the usual benefit of plug and play speakers is easily going back to oem but you destroyed the oem speakers to make your plug and play ones.

    That aside, pretty cool idea. I suppose you could always try to grab someone else's oem speakers for cheap. I still have mine I think haha.

    That reminds me, I meant to list the stereo bezel and brackets for sale...

  5. #15
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    Yeah. I used self tapping screws. I suppose your way is cleaner, but, I'm not sure the extra effort for a clean look somewhere you don't see is worth it. Still, your car, your time, and it works, so if you're happy with it no big deal. Just figured it was worth mentioning for any others stumbling upon this.

  6. #16
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    In the first post, it is recommended to run the power wire through the fender, and then through the door, is this correct?


    PLEASE DO NOT do this. I have seen cars burn to the ground because they ran the power wire for the amps through the door. I made a thread on here on how to run the power wire into the car via a factory grommet that maintains a water proof seal. It is MUCH safer that way, it looks almost stock under the hood, and your power wire will be shorter. I too ran 4 gauge wire, so it can be done.
    Certified holder of useless car knowledge.

  7. #17
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    There's no factory grommet that will fit 4 gauge.

    (Real 4 gauge, not Walmart 4 gauge)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ancyker View Post
    There's no factory grommet that will fit 4 gauge.

    (Real 4 gauge, not Walmart 4 gauge)

    I am using Monster Cable 4 gauge. Yes there is. But you do not run the wire through the grommet along with the other factory wires. You cut a small slit in the side of the grommet, between the factory wires and the edge of the grommet. It is VERY difficult to run the wire through (if it is easy to run the wire through then it won't be water proof). I know SEVERAL professional installers(3 of which have owned their own shop and have had cars they have done installs on featured in magazines) and this is a VERY common method that works great and lasts, as long as you don't cut a large slit in the grommet.
    Certified holder of useless car knowledge.

  9. #19
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    Not sure if Monster Cable is really 4 gauge or not, it's so overpriced (like all Monster products) I've never been able to bring myself to buy it.

    I ran mine through the fender, and then covered the cable in plastic at the door to protect it. 7 months no issues. I don't actually have the car anymore or I'd take pics.

    I don't keep cars long, so I didn't want anything super permanent that I was going to have to undo. While I did drill the speakers in, I had planned to leave those behind. The amps, however, I knew I'd be taking. If I was going to do the install proper, I'd drill through the firewall, install a new grommet, and run the cable through that.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ancyker View Post
    Not sure if Monster Cable is really 4 gauge or not, it's so overpriced (like all Monster products) I've never been able to bring myself to buy it.

    I ran mine through the fender, and then covered the cable in plastic at the door to protect it. 7 months no issues. I don't actually have the car anymore or I'd take pics.

    I don't keep cars long, so I didn't want anything super permanent that I was going to have to undo. While I did drill the speakers in, I had planned to leave those behind. The amps, however, I knew I'd be taking. If I was going to do the install proper, I'd drill through the firewall, install a new grommet, and run the cable through that.

    I was able to get a LOT of 4 gauge Monster cable for free many years ago. I took apart a LOT of car audio displays at Best Buy, and we were instructed to throw away all of the old wiring. Well, I did throw it away, in the back of my car!


    There has been a lot of different ways that I've seen people try to make running power wires through the fender and then through the door to help prevent the wire from getting pinched, but eventually they all fail and the wire will short out. When this happens, your fuse will blow, but if you are not running a fuse then your car WILL catch on fire. Even for temporary use, this is not the way to do it. This is a safety issue. Either do it right, and safe or do not do it.


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