No power steering/ Electrical Issue

[The..me]

I just know the basics. Really basic basics. It's usually the simple things that cause the most problems. Finding them can be a pita. I know nothing about AC house stuff. I can look up how to wire stuff and follow schematics but to blindly run a circuit or add an outlet I don't know, I have to look it up and relearn every single time. It's also something I don't want to eff around with and wake up unalived due to an electrical fire.

I remember one Mirage would just lose throttle input. I never did figure out what was wrong exactly. I ended up making sure all the connectors behind the fuse box were seated, wiggled stuff around and it never acted up again. That was 3-4 years ago. Most of the wiring problems I've seen are the lowest connector behind the kick panel and the wiring along the top of the intake. It's very possible other places could have issues. You mentioned you found a corroded ac pressure sensor. That's something I haven't run into.

I'd probably start from scratch.
-The battery light, and what other lights are on again? My memory sucks and if I go back to page 1 I lose what I typed already...
-The car runs but is charging at 15 volts and the power steering doesn't work?
-Have you checked for codes by chance?
-Dumb question regarding the brake light is the brake fluid level at the top mark or near the center?
-Have you disconnected the connectors behind the kick panel and inspected both sides of them? You can unplug them and pop out the part that's left in the holder that holds all the connectors. iirc, you unplug it, and the part that stays pulls towards you after releasing a tab then once it's loose it pushes back towards the front of the car. Then flip it around and take a close look. A tiny trace of green will make these cars go sideways. I don't remember if any of the wires there go to the alternator though...
-One way I sometimes use to figure if a battery ground cable is bad is to run booster cables from the neg post on the battery to the engine and the other one from the negative post to the body. It's not a scientifical way but sometimes works.
That red cover on the battery post lifts straight up iirc. It'l probably break if it's cold out though. I also think there are actual fuses you can see once the cover is off so might not need a meter to check. I doubt they're blown unless booster cables or something was hooked up backwards(autozone?).

Brake light is on, airbag, abs, traction control ( Both lights, the one also that says its activation when you lose traction) and power steering light. That is a lot.

I have not checked the voltage with the new alternator, that was an autozone test

I only had the battery light on before I swapped the guts from the rock auto alternator ( the casing was different) into the OEM casing, it was loud and obnoxious when I started it up and thats when all the other lights came on, then I went to autozone and got another alternator, it was the right one. I really messed up for trying to swap those parts between the alternators. I have now bought 2 alternators. Seems like I blew something maybe.
2nd alternator installed, all the idiot lights still on. I really need some good weather, doing this in the driveway on short winter hours after work we had single digit wind chills going. This weekend is looking a little better.

I tried getting the kick panel connector out like you said fingers were getting numb

I hooked the just negative cable to my bronco battery, jumpers are not the best tho. I need to check those fusible links too, not just the links but the cable connections to them as well. just need a good warm saturday hopefully this weekend. If cars weren't an arm and a leg I would probably just go get a new mirage, payments are twice what they were in 2016

[foama]

This thread seems to be going in circles. Let me sum up as I understand, maybe something productive comes out of it.

You replaced the alternator and battery because it wasn't charging, and thats when problems started. The regulators in these alternators are a bit different than most. They have one connector that goes to the main ECU. The ECU has the ability to charge the battery regardless of charging state (simple form of regenerating energy) when you take your foot off the gas at revs higher than about 1800rpm. If something was F***ed up connecting the alternator, maybe the ECU got fried. Quite improbable, but none the less possible.

Have a good look at the interior fuse box and its connectors. It is to the left and underneath the steering wheel. Are all connectors and fuses and other parts snuggly in? Check by pushing each of them, do not forget any.

In winter kick-panel harnesses are of special interest! Go get a strong magnifying glass and a good light source. Remove each connector and take a very good look at where each individual wire meets its connector pin, and look at it, each single one, individually one by one! On the jack side and the connector side! Every darn single wire! If it has the slightest signs of corrosion or become greenish, where wire and connector-pin meet, there is one very likely and major source of fault!
Blind spraying with contact spray is a just placebo at best. You need to do this job and the next below very thoroughly and with enduring patience.


Engine side wire harness. As Fummins said, have a very good look at each single wire. Even if it just looks good, it doesn't have to be OK. Lightly pull each wire to check if it may be broken inside. Sometimes they break inside and the outside looks like new, with the insulation simply covering an internal break. Does the light show go off when you wiggle or kneed that harness? Check!

The fuses under the red plus-pole cover, are they in order? Check!
The outside fuse box near the battery, does it look good inside?

I can only guess from here, but I would check what is easily and quickly done first, then investigate what takes more time.
I understand its freezing cold outside, but don't rush things because of that. Do one thing after another, go inside and warm up if needed, but do what you must do very thoroughly.

Good luck!

[The..me]

This thread seems to be going in circles. Let me sum up as I understand, maybe something productive comes out of it.

You replaced the alternator and battery because it wasn't charging, and thats when problems started. The regulators in these alternators are a bit different than most. They have one connector that goes to the main ECU. The ECU has the ability to charge the battery regardless of charging state (simple form of regenerating energy) when you take your foot off the gas at revs higher than about 1800rpm. If something was F***ed up connecting the alternator, maybe the ECU got fried. Quite improbable, but none the less possible.

Have a good look at the interior fuse box and its connectors. It is to the left and underneath the steering wheel. Are all connectors and fuses and other parts snuggly in? Check by pushing each of them, do not forget any.

In winter kick-panel harnesses are of special interest! Go get a strong magnifying glass and a good light source. Remove each connector and take a very good look at where each individual wire meets its connector pin, and look at it, each single one, individually one by one! On the jack side and the connector side! Every darn single wire! If it has the slightest signs of corrosion or become greenish, where wire and connector-pin meet, there is one very likely and major source of fault!
Blind spraying with contact spray is a just placebo at best. You need to do this job and the next below very thoroughly and with enduring patience.


Engine side wire harness. As Fummins said, have a very good look at each single wire. Even if it just looks good, it doesn't have to be OK. Lightly pull each wire to check if it may be broken inside. Sometimes they break inside and the outside looks like new, with the insulation simply covering an internal break. Does the light show go off when you wiggle or kneed that harness? Check!

The fuses under the red plus-pole cover, are they in order? Check!
The outside fuse box near the battery, does it look good inside?

I can only guess from here, but I would check what is easily and quickly done first, then investigate what takes more time.
I understand its freezing cold outside, but don't rush things because of that. Do one thing after another, go inside and warm up if needed, but do what you must do very thoroughly.

Good luck!

Thanks, supposed to be 40 degrees tomorrow I have the whole day.

[The..me]

Thanks, supposed to be 40 degrees tomorrow I have the whole day.

Update I looked at fuses, battery ground , I taped up the alternator wires this morning after inspecting I got a misfire now and a flashing CEL , plus all the rest of the dash lights are still on, also saw both my sway bar links are busted as a bonus this morning.

Unbelievable

[The..me]

Update I looked at fuses, battery ground , I taped up the alternator wires this morning after inspecting I got a misfire now and a flashing CEL , plus all the rest of the dash lights are still on, also saw both my sway bar links are busted as a bonus this morning.

Unbelievable

[The..me]

Update I looked at fuses, battery ground , I taped up the alternator wires this morning after inspecting I got a misfire now and a flashing CEL , plus all the rest of the dash lights are still on, also saw both my sway bar links are busted as a bonus this morning.

Unbelievable

Extra crazy. When I turned on my heater blower the Power steering came back like working, turned the steering wheel and the other dash lights went out except battery, but now it the battery light goes out when the air compressor cycles. I am going to change that pigtail on the high pressure switch that is frayed.

Is this nuts or what?

Nuther update connector for air conditioning sensor is not the right one, now whenever the air compressor cycles all the lights go off, when it stops the all come back on. I need to get that connector, I hope it is the issue.

[foama]

Nice to hear of progress setting in! Maybe some sort of a discontinuety, maybe a missing ground wire somewhere..?

[The..me]

Nice to hear of progress setting in! Maybe some sort of a discontinuety, maybe a missing ground wire somewhere..?

I just got through replacing battery ground 5 minutes ago still no change, sidenote radiator fan kicks on with the compressor, also when I turn headlights and heater motor up PS steering works, then if I turn the steering wheel the traction lights and other lights go out , battery light was going out for awhile but now it just stays on.

Debating cutting that pigtail off the AC sensor and trying to repair it, its frayed right where it goes into the plastic clip.

[The..me]

getting this towed to Johnny Mullets place tomorrow so hopefully all is well

Thanks for all the help from everyone.

[Johnny Mullet]

getting this towed to Johnny Mullets place tomorrow so hopefully all is well

Thanks for all the help from everyone.

I will get this figured out for you!