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Thread: 2020 Mitsubishi mirage g4 cvt failure

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tommyptr View Post
    People have reported (some not all) that aftermarket fluid does not play nicely with factory fluid. I think its a combination of that, and there was crud in the transmission from such a long interval... flush it out twice and replace with factory fluid is my first recommendation.
    Update!
    Went to Mitsubishi dealership and got 9 quarts of genuine j4 cvt fluid(18.50 a quart!!!!!). Drained that idenmitsu n3 fluid and filled with 2.5 quarts of j4. Ran through each gear holding for 10 seconds each about 5 times. Drove a couple miles then drained. Did that twice. Then filled with about 2.6 quarts. Went for a 10 mile drive on highway. Absolutely no shudder and felt great. No lights on dash or blinking gear selector. Checked fluid level after that drive and was perfect. Seems to have fixed the issue for now. I will keep updated on if issue comes back but fingers crossed.



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  3. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steveystrappa View Post
    Update!
    Went to Mitsubishi dealership and got 9 quarts of genuine j4 cvt fluid(18.50 a quart!!!!!). Drained that idenmitsu n3 fluid and filled with 2.5 quarts of j4. Ran through each gear holding for 10 seconds each about 5 times. Drove a couple miles then drained. Did that twice. Then filled with about 2.6 quarts. Went for a 10 mile drive on highway. Absolutely no shudder and felt great. No lights on dash or blinking gear selector. Checked fluid level after that drive and was perfect. Seems to have fixed the issue for now. I will keep updated on if issue comes back but fingers crossed.
    Much thanks for the update. Here's hoping the problem doesn't come back.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 49.6 mpg (US) ... 21.1 km/L ... 4.7 L/100 km ... 59.5 mpg (Imp)


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    Another update...
    Happened again for my sister today. After about 20 miles of highway driving started shudder again. She pulled off and didn't want to mice again. D light flashing and from what I've read that's a stored transmission trouble code. Will have to pull codes and go from their. Hopefully it's not a whole unit.

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    Seems to happen after long drives as the first issue happened after a long drive.

  6. #15
    cvt connoisseur, of sorts OrganicFoxes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steveystrappa View Post
    Another update...
    Happened again for my sister today. After about 20 miles of highway driving started shudder again. She pulled off and didn't want to mice again. D light flashing and from what I've read that's a stored transmission trouble code. Will have to pull codes and go from their. Hopefully it's not a whole unit.
    Yeah sounds like it could be starting to go wrong when it gets fully up to temp, or overheating. There could be many kinds of issues that could cause that. I would try to monitor the temp as you drive, that could be a help when trying to diagnose, will need an app or scan tool for that.

    Find it weird that it took 2 to 3 weeks after a fluid change and then it caused problems, that's if the fluid change disrupted something to begin with. Maybe for the first 2 to 3 weeks the cvt did not even get up to temp, could be the case if it was only short trips. This model of cvt at least from my experience and others is that it does not care to much about the type of fluid used, as long as the fluid meets specification.

    One thing that is very common and can happen to any transmission is waiting to late to change the fluid. What can happen is the magnets eventfully can not hold anymore metal shavings and then you will have metal shavings recirculate throughout the transmission which can cause so many problems. Not just excessive wear on all components but it can clog filters too and slow down the flow of fluid. Fluid also breaks down overtime and does not protect and do its job as well, which will cause excessive wear as well. Not saying that this IS the case with your situation but it is very common.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2017 Mirage SE 1.2 automatic: 47.9 mpg (US) ... 20.4 km/L ... 4.9 L/100 km ... 57.5 mpg (Imp)


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    Make sense there. Thanks for pointing that out. Speaking for myself alone, I will want to get my CVT fluid change around 25-28k. I thought it is already into a yellow zone which is better than red as overdue.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2023 Mirage G4 SE 1.2 automatic: 43.0 mpg (US) ... 18.3 km/L ... 5.5 L/100 km ... 51.6 mpg (Imp)


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    Quote Originally Posted by OrganicFoxes View Post
    One thing that is very common and can happen to any transmission is waiting to late to change the fluid. What can happen is the magnets eventfully can not hold anymore metal shavings and then you will have metal shavings recirculate throughout the transmission which can cause so many problems. Not just excessive wear on all components but it can clog filters too and slow down the flow of fluid. Fluid also breaks down overtime and does not protect and do its job as well, which will cause excessive wear as well. Not saying that this IS the case with your situation but it is very common.
    In theory the paper filter would catch most of this.
    please consider checking out my Mirage related youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6c...IEViRFw/videos

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    Quote Originally Posted by OrganicFoxes View Post
    Yeah sounds like it could be starting to go wrong when it gets fully up to temp, or overheating. There could be many kinds of issues that could cause that. I would try to monitor the temp as you drive, that could be a help when trying to diagnose, will need an app or scan tool for that.

    Find it weird that it took 2 to 3 weeks after a fluid change and then it caused problems, that's if the fluid change disrupted something to begin with. Maybe for the first 2 to 3 weeks the cvt did not even get up to temp, could be the case if it was only short trips. This model of cvt at least from my experience and others is that it does not care to much about the type of fluid used, as long as the fluid meets specification.

    One thing that is very common and can happen to any transmission is waiting to late to change the fluid. What can happen is the magnets eventfully can not hold anymore metal shavings and then you will have metal shavings recirculate throughout the transmission which can cause so many problems. Not just excessive wear on all components but it can clog filters too and slow down the flow of fluid. Fluid also breaks down overtime and does not protect and do its job as well, which will cause excessive wear as well. Not saying that this IS the case with your situation but it is very common.
    This was her first fluid change at 97k. I'm starting to think that this disrupted something or released some crud and is causing issue. I've had the talk with her that maintenance is huge when you own a vehicle. I haven't been around to recently and did a whole tuneup. I'm starting to kick my self in the ass and wondering if I should've left the transmission alone.will give more updates after I pull some codes and dig a little deeper Into issue this week.

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  12. #19
    Post what codes you come up with and do a search on the forum. There's a free service manual for a 2015 Mirage here. Most things are similar except wiring pinouts. The cvt's are the same.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage SE wussie cvt edition. 1.2 automatic: 37.7 mpg (US) ... 16.0 km/L ... 6.2 L/100 km ... 45.3 mpg (Imp)


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  14. #20
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    UPDATE -PULLED CODES
    P0796 - Primary pressure solenoid (Permanent)
    P285A- 2nd gear / interlock fail (pending)
    Both CVT troublecodes
    P0796 was tripped at 48mph at 1632rpms about 963 seconds into drive according to my scanner which lines up to exactly when and how the last issue happend with my sister. Vehicle would then go into limp mode explaining no acceleration and needing tow

    Seems to me possible failure in valve body where something isn't opening up correctly or not opening or closing at all , not allowing fluid where it should be at certain times(just a theory)

    Going to drop pan and expect thoroughly. Dig a little deeper into any and all potential causes and fixes for such issue and go from their. Maybe replace valve body like previous commenter stated that fixed their problem. Before I do any of that really want to have a good understanding and idea before I throw parts at it.

    Thanks guys



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