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Thread: My DIY Oil Change Nightmare

  1. #11
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    I just wish you'd have taken our advice on the ramps Charlie... this all would have gone a lot smoother... :-/

    Also not to be a know it all, but you could have used the jack on one side, inserted the jackstand, and then went to the other side and done the same.


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    Could make ramps out of 2x6 and 2x4 like these . Had leftover wood . Got the idea from the internet . Work nicely for O.C.s and other tasks . Made 4 for putting whole car onto to work under . Let someone borrow a pair and will get them back one of these years .
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    Last edited by cinder; 07-02-2014 at 03:47 PM.

  3. #13
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    Don't care the location of the oil filter on the MIRAGE . The SUZUKI SX-4 is in same area , but is tighter due to hoses .

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    Two suggestions: Rhino ramps (great for small/low cars) and a Fumoto valve. I checked the Fumoto site just now, but they don't list the Mirage. Doesn't mean they don't offer one with the proper thread size, though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by aydu View Post
    Congratulations on getting the job done.

    The issues you encountered may be the universe telling you that you were meant for things other than oil changes.

    .
    man oh man oh man listen to the universe

  6. #16
    Senior Member Charlie's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the suggestions guys (reason why I joined this forum!), I've read them all and will implement many of these in my next OC.

    I was definitely not discouraged even after the debacle lol. You know how we learn best through mistakes?? Well..I learned a LOT, let's just say that! Since I've come so far and learned so much already, I definitely feel it would be a shame to not stick with it b/c I know my next OC will be so much better and smoother!

    I love getting any advice from here. I hope someone can write up a tutorial (with pics?) on Transmission servicing for fluid change (and filter? do we have transmission filter in our cars or just a screen?), BEFORE I get to that particular maintenance item!

    To Cookiemonster: I just stuck with the 'recommended' 0w-20 viscosity. I went with Mobil 1, Advanced Fuel Economy Synth, and Mobil 1 Extended Performance Filter. Also..HOW did you get the filter off from the top???! I tried that before jamming myself under the car unraised, but there appeared to be too many obstacles in the way. Going in from bottom after removing the front under cover panel seemed to be the best solution to me. Also, to answer your last question, used oil looked absolutely fine with no sparkling metal wear particles, then again I did not drain the factory filled synth and fill up with dino for a break in period.

    To R01K and Basic: I definitely thought of doing the jack first, stands next solution, however the dilemma came when I was reading through the manual. Says to jack only at specified points. On the front left and right side, there is only one 'authorized' jack point designated each by a pinch weld on each side. If I take up this spot with a jack to raise the car, it now leaves me with no place to put the jack stand since the jack is occupying the pinch weld. There is this guy who invented something to get past that issue with these 3 sided metallic stools so you can get around this 'same space occupying' issue, but they're SOOOO expensive!!...he was promoted by Jay Leno too.

    To Basic: Definitely took the ramp advice seriously. I wanted to do everything as safe as possible, so when I browsed the ramps and inspected what was available at my local autoparts store, I was not instilled with much confidence in the ramps I found. The Rhino Ramps I inspected were those plastic ones with not too many structural supports in the hollow underside. I know they rate them at like 3 times higher weight than our car's curb weight..but looking at those ramps, I just had a very hard time believing it and did not want to risk it so I thought the safest thing would be the, front jack point raising, to lowering onto 2 jackstands in front method. Though now since the hydraulic floor jack method is out of the question (NOT going to buy a super long floor jack), I'm definitely looking much closer at car ramps again.

    To Minihaha: Thanks!! I will DEFINITELY be implementing that procedural order next time! I had no idea about the, opening up oil cap first thing, though it makes sense now that I remember about air pressure. For my first oil change though, I definitely needed to take off the oil filter first b/c the thing with the Mobil 1 oil filter, I wasn't entirely sure it was going to fit on the car. I went to the Mobil 1 site, and they give no recommendations for 2014 Mitsu Mirage for oil filters. Checked out Autozone, according to their site (at least when I checked), it did not recommend any Mobil 1 filters either, just a Fram. I looked up thread type, and it appeared to be the same as the recommended Fram model, so I bought the Mobil 1 model based on that info. Still was not super certain though, so I wanted to dry fit the Mobil 1 filter first before draining the oil so I could at least drive back to the auto parts store in the event it did NOT fit...though, now thinking back with how everything else went South, I'm VERY surprised the oil filter wound up fitting!!

    To Daox: YESSS!! A DIY oil change guide would be of immense help to many people, many of whom may not post on the site but still browse the site. Due to different configurations, clearances, etc from car to car, the best, easiest, most efficient way to do something on one car may not be the best thing to do on another (I learned, strap type oil filters are useless for our cars coming at the filter from the bottom for example).

    To FredM: Duuuude, those Fumoto Valves!!! WHY are those not stock in EVERY single car on this planet??!!!! I will definitely be seriously investigating this avenue before my next OC. Thanks for showing me that!!!

    -Charlie-

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    If I remember correctly, the filter is positioned just under the upper radiator hose ... I slipped the filter wrench down between the hoses over the filter, then attached the socket ratcheting wrench to it. Had to attach the filter wrench by feel though, since I couldn't see the filter from that angle, but it can be done. It was easiest, at least for me, to remove the filter that way, instead of from the bottom. I didn't remove the panels under the cover though.

  8. #18
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    I'm past that part of my life where doing fluid changes is anywhere near my goals in life.

    Given that, I do plan to use the dealer for all maintenance items on my Mirage during the long warranty period. Two reasons for this.
    First, my local Mits dealer has a great service shop. We have used them for many years and they provide the best (and most honest) service of any dealership in my town.

    Second is the long warranty period on the powertrain. I want it documented that the dealer did all the service work on the vehicle, in case something goes wrong down the road. I'll probably hit the 10 years before I get to 100,000 miles and I don't want any questions about warranty when it comes to service done, fluids used, etc.

    Mitsubishi dealerships keep pretty good computerized records of your car's history.

  9. #19
    Senior Member Ares's Avatar
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    80$ worth of oil change just feels on the expensive side...

  10. #20
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    I'm quite enjoying the fact I get free oil changes for life that came with buying this car... Oil change prices are outrageous.


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        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage DE 1.2 manual: 51.2 mpg (US) ... 21.8 km/L ... 4.6 L/100 km ... 61.5 mpg (Imp)


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