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Thread: HOW TO: Changing 5MT Gear Oil

  1. #31
    Member roscoe1972's Avatar
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    I don't know for how long, but it was definitely dry when I checked. The washer looked to be off center and possibly it leaked out slowly (never noticed spots or drips). I filled it, added some dye, put a new gasket, and so far no leaking.

    The shifting is OK, but it's hard to tell with the Arctic temps we're having. It's covered under warr. for 34k more mi. so we'll see what happens.



  2. #32
    Member stevedmc's Avatar
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    Thank you for this write up. Having pictures of the drain/fill plugs and knowing about the Redline product really made this easy.

    I just changed my transmission fluid at 198,800k miles. To chime in on what someone else said about measuring the fluid, there is no need to measure anything. Just make sure you have enough, and two bottles is plenty to spill some and still have enough to fill it up.

    Fill plugs are positioned on transmissions with the correct oil height in mind. As long as your car is on a level surface, all you have to do is keep adding oil (lubricant or whatever you want to call it) until the transmission starts over flowing.

    Performance wise, I can't say anything good or bad about the Redline. It is simply the correct type of oil (synthetic) and correct viscosity for our transmissions. My car doesn't shift any better or worse. For me to say it is any better, would be a simple placebo.

    Another bit of advice for people who have never done this type of job before, you want to do it on a hot summer day. I hate working outside in the heat, but manual transmission fluid is very thick. I've filled transmissions before during the winter, and that stuff flows like really thick molasses when it is cold.

    To make pouring the stuff easier, I left the two bottles sitting on the Rolls Royce for a few hours, in the hot sun. Every hour or so, I shook the bottles to make sure the heat was being dispersed evenly. When I finally got around to changing the fluid, the stuff poured like water.

    Anyway, its a super easy job. I'm not paranoid enough to do this every 60k miles, but I will make a habit of changing the fluid again at 300k miles.

    Thanks again for the pictures of the plugs and socket measurements. Having info like that in advance saves a lot of time. I didn't have to dig around in my tool room trying to figure out the right size socket.

  3. #33
    Member stevedmc's Avatar
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    And ditto on always checking to see if the fill plug will come out first. Most of my car experience is on older classic cars where all sorts of bolts can be stuck. You definitely want to be sure you can fill something back up before you drain it.

    It is almost a non-existent issue on these newer cars unless you are dealing with rust issues due to road salt, but on classic cars it is a real concern.

    Still, it doesn't hurt to be safe by making sure the fill plug comes out. It is something you have to remove anyway and doesn't cost anything extra to be safe.

  4. #34
    Senior Member Top_Fuel's Avatar
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    Obtain two quarts of 75w-80 gear oil
    I've seen this thread before but never paid attention to the actual type of fluid being used. I'm surprised that it requires a gear oil. Many modern manual transmissions (T5, T56, TR6060) have tighter tolerances than "old-school" manuals and use a much lighter automatic transmission fluid. Good thing I double-checked this thread. I'm approaching 50K miles and will probably do this soon.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 51.3 mpg (US) ... 21.8 km/L ... 4.6 L/100 km ... 61.6 mpg (Imp)


  5. #35
    Member stevedmc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Top_Fuel View Post
    I'm approaching 50K miles and will probably do this soon.
    Why so soon? You should be good for another 150k miles.



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