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Thread: DIY - Looking good for the long haul! (Rust protection for the rear hatch)

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    DIY - Looking good for the long haul! (Rust protection for the rear hatch)

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    Admin note
    -- this thread is part of a DIY series:

    1. DIY - Rust protection front/rear wheel well areas
    2. DIY - Rust protection for the rear hatch
    3. DIY - Rust protection front/rear doors
    4. DIY - Rust protection for the inner rear quarters


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    Welcome back to Part V of the DIY - Looking good for the long haul!
    (Rust protection for the rear hatch.)

    Recap:

    In Parts I & II we undercoated the front and rear wheel well areas and went the extra mile by painting the front calipers and the rear drums to give it a better shot at looking good years from now.

    In Parts III & IV we undercoated the front and rear inner doors to give them some extra protection in an area that generally receives very little attention.

    In Part V, the rear hatch is in the spotlight.

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    ***DISCLAIMER***
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    What follows is the removal of the rear hatch trim pad to gain access to the inner cavity. The procedures for this task will be general and probably not all-inclusive so if unsure about anything, ask questions or do a little research before you start. In the same way there are those who should never carry anything sharper than fresh marshmallow Peeps, there are those that should never attempt to hands-on repair an automobile. Going one step further, please consider this writeup for entertainment purposes only - I assume no liability - CrazyJerry

    Onward to the rear hatch!

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    2,640 miles - the newness remains - and each tank continues to average 51mpg!
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    Undercoating the "inners" of the rear hatch requires the small rectangular trim pad to be removed and this is not a difficult task.

    For the removal, we'll need a thin regular flat-tip screwdriver and about 2.5 minutes...

    Step 1: Open the rear hatch and take a look at the inner trim pad. Notice the plastic push rivets that hold it in place. Using your flat tip screwdriver and a little finesse, pry the heads up about a quarter of an inch:
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    As you work your way around the trim pad, you'll notice how easily the trim pad will start to fall away from the hatch:
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    Looking at the uncovered area you'll see plenty of cutouts that make access to the inners very handy:

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    And, if you are able to snake your hand up through one of those places you'll be able to pop out the rear hatch close pull and provide another path to spray the inner hatch area:
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    As previously used, the amber rattle can undercoating can be sprayed in the cavity:
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    While spraying, be sure to blast the rear hatch lock hold down clip:
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    ***NOTE*** Throughout this series (DIY - Looking good for the long haul!) there is a reoccurring theme that needs to be commended. It is the presence of seam sealer and it shows up in places where one might not even expect it to be. This latest example from the inner hatch photo below resides southwest of the lock clip and points out a connection between a brace and the outer shell:
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    When you're done spraying, simply put the rear hatch trim pad back in place and insert the plastic rivets in their holes and push their heads flush to the pad. If you see any areas where the undercoat dripped out, you may wish to wipe with a paper towel. The rear hatch is now happy and so is the Mirage's owner:
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    ~CrazyJerry

    P.S. Still aspiring to obtain a free window forum sticker!
    Last edited by CrazyJerry; 01-21-2019 at 10:26 PM. Reason: Formatting

  2. The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to CrazyJerry For This Useful Post:

    Back-space (08-30-2014),beerbelly58 (09-25-2014),Daox (09-02-2014),MetroMPG (09-25-2014),ToXiQ (10-18-2014)

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