ETACS tweaks?

[7milesout]

This reminds me of a story. Dudes with Dodge Rams like mine were saying that when they were towing heavy, they like to pull into a rest area, leave the truck idling, but take the keyfob (off) and lock the doors once they get out. Do their bidness, come back unlock and drive away. Because it's best not to shut the truck off when the turbo is hot after long hard boosting. Needs a few minutes cooling down, but they can be back on the road in that time.

So the Ford guys came in to our Dodge forum and posted that several of them wanted to do the same thing but would get locked out of their truck. I can't remember Ed Zachery, been around 20 years back, but I think they would get out with the fob, the fob wouldn't lock the truck so they'd push the lock switch on the inside which would work. Then they'd come back and find that their fob still would not work to unlock the truck. Key in the ignition, truck idling, and they were locked out. Funny! I did this too. But I put my windows down, left it idling, got out and locked it with the key fob. Then unlocked it. My keyfob worked. I left the windows down in case the fob didn't work. But it did.

[Gajeel]

putting in high power gives u additional in acceleration and with the combination with the tire circumfernce you will some changes.

+1 on this. I changed mine to Power and not sure if it's a placebo effect but the car revs to 2 RPM easier even if I lightly tap on the accelerator. Much like how power mode in modern cars work. I used to wear shoes so I can easily depress the accelerator and get to speed. Now even with slippers it revs more responsively (not that it pulls faster -- it's an econo car, after all)

[Fummins]

This reminds me of a story. Dudes with Dodge Rams like mine were saying that when they were towing heavy, they like to pull into a rest area, leave the truck idling, but take the keyfob (off) and lock the doors once they get out. Do their bidness, come back unlock and drive away. Because it's best not to shut the truck off when the turbo is hot after long hard boosting. Needs a few minutes cooling down, but they can be back on the road in that time.

So the Ford guys came in to our Dodge forum and posted that several of them wanted to do the same thing but would get locked out of their truck. I can't remember Ed Zachery, been around 20 years back, but I think they would get out with the fob, the fob wouldn't lock the truck so they'd push the lock switch on the inside which would work. Then they'd come back and find that their fob still would not work to unlock the truck. Key in the ignition, truck idling, and they were locked out. Funny! I did this too. But I put my windows down, left it idling, got out and locked it with the key fob. Then unlocked it. My keyfob worked. I left the windows down in case the fob didn't work. But it did.

The ignition in my old dodge was so worn out, I could take the key out with it running. I'd start it, lock the doors manually and let it warm up with the key in my pocket. That worked great until I started the truck at work one day but didn't lock it, drove to a store on my way home and shut the truck off then discovered my keys were still on my desk at work....I Had to call someone at work to bring me my keys of the desk their way home, or pick me up and take me back to work to find them(I can't remember which). That was fun.

[Fummins]

They had it designed to avoid locking the keys inside accidentally. I have a push start system with FAST key on my Mirage so if I try to lock the doors using the button on the driver's door, it beeps telling me the keys are still inside.

However, this also means I can't lock the car with the engine on even when I have the remote with me. Not sure why would they design it like that if their only purpose was to keep keys from getting locked.

Hopefully someone has an idea about this being disabled in ETACS. I tried meddling with the door lock type (type A and C I think) and so far it only changes the way the doors react. (Type A unlocks all doors on 2nd press, type C unlocks all doors on 1st press).

I haven't messed with the etacs but have seen the different settings. They made it near impossible to lock the keys in these cars(keyed ignition model at least). With our work cars, the doors won't lock with the key in the ignition, even if you try to manually lock the doors they'll automatically unlock. Drivers still manage to lock themselves out with the car running though. I think they unlock the car, open the door, lock the doors then start it and walk away. Otherwise I can't figure out how it happens.

I don't know if the keyless entry works with the cars ignition turned on or running.

[redrock108]

Anyone tried removing throttle delay using etacs? What variation or custom you adjust?

[Mitz]

+1 on this. I changed mine to Power and not sure if it's a placebo effect but the car revs to 2 RPM easier even if I lightly tap on the accelerator. Much like how power mode in modern cars work. I used to wear shoes so I can easily depress the accelerator and get to speed. Now even with slippers it revs more responsively (not that it pulls faster -- it's an econo car, after all)

Hey @Gajeel can you take throttle opening values (using Torque App) for various RPMs, say 1K and 2K, at NORMAL mode and another reading at POWER mode for comparison?

Also, can you try revving up the RPM until the REV limiter kicks in? With Engine set to POWER, does the rev limiter still works?

[Mitz]

+1 on this. I changed mine to Power and not sure if it's a placebo effect but the car revs to 2 RPM easier even if I lightly tap on the accelerator. Much like how power mode in modern cars work. I used to wear shoes so I can easily depress the accelerator and get to speed. Now even with slippers it revs more responsively (not that it pulls faster -- it's an econo car, after all)

Anyone tried removing throttle delay using etacs? What variation or custom you adjust?

I read at FB posts this power setting works in the 2018 and later models

Some people are actually charging a fee for activating this feature



I am looking forward to using EcuFlash to look into the fuel map to see what change/s there is/are in the Power setting options, but I fear bricking the ECU preventing me from trying the EcuFlash application.

No updates on the folowing threads:

Live4Redlines ECU Tuning Attempt (Work in Progress)

Oem ecu tuning

[7milesout]

I suspect the Engine power, low, normal and high is just accelerator pedal gain differences. Meaning the high power would have the power come on more aggressively. And vice-versa. Leaving the normal to be linear. Just my gut feeling.