Rear Wheel Misaligned? (UPDATE: some rear axles out of spec; warranty replacement)

[deleted user]

I'll keep my now aligned Mirage, averaging 10 mpg better than my Fiesta, which I sold.

regards
mech

[cyclopathic]

A car with 0 camber and toe, front and rear would drift to the right off the road due to the crown in the road itself.

the fix for crown drifting is to have ~0.5 more neg camber on right side (for RHT countries).

I had alignment checked/corrected at dealer last week, and the rear was right inline with zero cross-toe, very little trust angle deviation and -1.1/-1.6 L/R camber (0.5deg cross-camber) the front had 0 cross-camber, and after they corrected toe (it was 0.6deg toe-out) it was pulling right even more.

I was thinking to slot right strut to correct it, but since we have new shocks coming soon, just end up toeing out right wheel by 0.4deg

[Cani Lupine]

Yeah, I've got 0.7 degrees more negative camber on the left side, but Mitsu still won't do anything about it, even though they acknowledge road crown needs the camber on the opposite side.

[Basic]

the fix for crown drifting is to have ~0.5 more neg camber on right side (for RHT countries).

I had alignment checked/corrected at dealer last week, and the rear was right inline with zero cross-toe, very little trust angle deviation and -1.1/-1.6 L/R camber (0.5deg cross-camber) the front had 0 cross-camber, and after they corrected toe (it was 0.6deg toe-out) it was pulling right even more.

I was thinking to slot right strut to correct it, but since we have new shocks coming soon, just end up toeing out right wheel by 0.4deg

New shocks coming soon??

[ednevell]

I knew there was a reason I stayed off this thread. Thanks for reminding me!

Sorry, had a bad day. Took it out on you.

I am truly sorry. Not only to you but to every one else.


ED

[ednevell]

This is my funky alignment!

[deleted user]

Basically you need 37.5 inches total length with the turnbuckle extended to maximum. The previous pic shows the left link.The right side is much longer, so 3 pieces total. The links are identical except for their length. I have it at 0 toe, but could actually pull it together more where it could be at 0 with the rig removed. For right now I'm leaving it alone.

regards
mech

[deleted user]

Hey that's very good thinking!I did not think of that but I doubt it would put enough force spreading the front to go as much as we need the geometry to change.

Plus you would have to drop the front of the beam completely out of the mounting ears to access the side of the bushings and cut a lot of thickness off. If it worked though,it would be way more elegant compared to what I'm doing.

My other idea was to go brutal on it.Set it up on the alignment rack, hook a come-along (ratcheting winch) near the lower shock mounts and cold bend it while watching the alignment monitor live to see the results.

Hooking it low also removes some of that crazy negative camber as well as positive toe. (visible on my printout)

This post hits the nail on the head, much earlier than any of mine. I would compare it to straightening a gun barrel. You have to go further than necessary, but only enough to get the final dimension without any force applied.

Another way would be to spread out the beam just behind the two rubber mounts with a portapower hydraulic jack.

regards
mech

[cyclopathic]

New shocks coming soon??

I have TEINs coilovers on order

[cyclopathic]

Yeah, I've got 0.7 degrees more negative camber on the left side, but Mitsu still won't do anything about it, even though they acknowledge road crown needs the camber on the opposite side.

Is it front or rear? if it is front you can either slot top strut mount or get camber adjustment kit. If it is rear then good luck fixing it with sledge hummer.

On ours front left sits at 0, and right at 0.2 (positive), so -0.7deg missing on right. Or perhaps +0.1 and +0.1 depending if you take reading prior to lowering lift or after.