Rear Wheel Misaligned? (UPDATE: some rear axles out of spec; warranty replacement)

[91cavgt]

Did you factor in the difference for distance? Use freeway mile markers to verify your odometer accuracy. The drop could be from fewer tire revolutions per mile.

The difference between the stock tire and a 175/65/14 is 20 revolutions per mile fewer with the tires I'm running. With a 72" circumference this means 1440", or 120 feet less per mile than stock. So every 44 miles that are driven on the odometer means that my car has actually driven 43 miles. On a typical tank of fuel, around 300 miles, this means that in reality, the car has driven 7 miles less. I have been averaging about 45 mpg, which takes about 1/6th of a gallon to travel 7 miles. This equates to about 0.16667 gallons. So after doing a little math, in reality the mpg is off by about 1.2 mpg. So my mpg has still dropped with the new tires, but not a whole lot.

Caveat; I was never good at math in school, and it has been 20 years since I was in school so I HOPE my math is right.

[cyclopathic]

Did you factor in the difference for distance? Use freeway mile markers to verify your odometer accuracy. The drop could be from fewer tire revolutions per mile.

we have 185/60R14, which differ from OEM by 1%. Definitely not by 5-10%. This seems to correspond to GPS speed readings, +1MPH at ~60-70.

[gunlak]

anyone here got the wheel alignment specs for the mirage?

[cyclopathic]

anyone here got the wheel alignment specs for the mirage?

Several examples through this post, like this one http://mirageforum.com/forum/showthr...ll=1#post25061

[gunlak]

Several examples through this post, like this one http://mirageforum.com/forum/showthr...ll=1#post25061

thank you very much. there's no readily available specs here in the philippines, the shops here use the specs for the 01-02 mirage (lancer)

[cyclopathic]

thank you very much. there's no readily available specs here in the philippines, the shops here use the specs for the 01-02 mirage (lancer)

From what I've seen it is pretty standard for FWD. The OEM spec is just catch all so people didn't complain that it is out of spec. The run of the mill FWD spec is front:
Camber -0.5-1degree
Toe 0-0.3 degree toe-in

Rear: same toe, additional 0.5 degree of negative camber compared to front (this is to prevent oversteer)

Camber on non-driver side (right in most countries) is -0.3-0.5 degree more to compensate for road crown (slop to outside edge)

[Clessy]

Makes me wonder since I work at a mitsu dealership if I should check mine. Ours is just a city car for the most part and I've never noticed any real pulling of any direction. Plus its time for a oil change anyways.

[inuvik]

Makes me wonder since I work at a mitsu dealership if I should check mine. Ours is just a city car for the most part and I've never noticed any real pulling of any direction. Plus its time for a oil change anyways.

It'd be worth a check. Should know if you have a issue or not so you can make a decision.

[cyclopathic]

Makes me wonder since I work at a mitsu dealership if I should check mine. Ours is just a city car for the most part and I've never noticed any real pulling of any direction. Plus its time for a oil change anyways.

I had mine checked, and luckily rear had no issues. Front was out of spec, had 0.6deg toe-out and not enough cross camber. I wish the tech just corrected camber, b/c correcting toe worsen off-center feel.

[Cani Lupine]

You won't notice a pull because the steering is set so tight that you don't even get any return from the caster. Makes me wonder if that was deliberate to hide the poor alignment.