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  1. #1
    Uber Mirage alex16's Avatar
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    Changing or removing Spark plugs & Coil packs

    I was tinkering with my intake the other day when I had it off in 30 seconds I figured I should get some anti seize on my spark plug threads for the remaining 96K miles they will be bolted down.


    Tools needed:

    3/8 ratchet
    6'' or equivalent 3/8 Extension
    5/8 deep socket
    10 MM socket
    Needle nose pliers (If you have a hard time getting the connectors off the coils like I did on one of them)
    Copper*** anti seize (Aluminum silver type is good stuff but I was taught in automotive training courses to use copper)
    dielectric grease (helpful and helps seal the coils)

    First remove the intake baffle, it can be taken apart in two pieces to make it a bit simpler.

    The first piece is the snorkel/breathing tube side, it is held in by (1) 10mm bolt close to the oil fill cap.

    Attachment 2518

    Attachment 2519

    It should wiggle free of the air box with the bolt removed.

    Next the main air box, there is (2) 10MM bolts behind it that are somewhat difficult to see in the back.
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    This picture shows one of them and how close it is to the firewall. Tip: if you put some dielectric grease in your 10MM socket it will most of the time hold your bolt as you pull your extension up and out. My hands barely fit but then again I have large hands and arms, I think most of you guys will have no trouble reaching around the air box between it and the firewall.

    Then the easy bolt that is on the left of the valve cover (red and green markings on all bolts.

    You can see it here to the right of the main air box inlet.

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    Wiggle the breather hose off the clip built into the air box

    If you can't get enough slack to do this then wiggle the air box and lightly pull up to release it from the rubber bushing in the valve cover, then position it to get the breather hose off.

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    Once this hose is off and you have wiggled it/twisted it, it should "pop" out of this rubber bushing.

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    Next comes the easy parts, remove all the plug harnesses from the ignition coils (they are wired just right so they can't be mixed up). I try to avoid putting any kind of dielectric grease or other things on these terminals.

    Next remove the (3) 10 MM bolts holding the three coils in. (don't leave them in the coil, they will fall out)

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    2014 ES F5MBD aka 5MT. I am a full time Uber driver, if you want to drive for uber DO not sign up without my referral code for a bonus .

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        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 44.8 mpg (US) ... 19.1 km/L ... 5.2 L/100 km ... 53.9 mpg (Imp)


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    Uber Mirage alex16's Avatar
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    Carefully remove each coil keeping them in the order they were removed (they honestly don't have to be in the same order, I just prefer to keep them where they came from, same with the plugs)

    Use the 5/8 6'' extension 3'8 ratchet to break loose and loosen the spark plugs. When they turn by hand with the extension till they feel super loose you can use a coil pack to pick them up out of the head.

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    My 4,000 mile NGK's. (I'm a die hard NGK fan I even run them in my Jeep when the Jeep guys told me to always use champions)

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    They told me in the GM delco classes that copper anti seize should be used because it doesn't interfere with grounding of sensors/spark plugs ect.

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    Oops too much anti seize, they'll be okay though.

    Its pretty harsh doing this but if you prefer not to there is other ways of putting the plugs back in the head besides dropping them in (that's what all the techs do) such as dielectric grease on your 3/8 socket to make it stick inside the socket slightly, or use a 3'8 rubber hose 6'' long to hand thread them back in. I use the dielectric grease method myself but honestly I've never seen a tech have a issue with just dropping them in the hole.

    I add a small amount of dielectric grease to the outer seal of the top of the coil pack.

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    Once you have all of the spark plugs tight with the extension/hand, torque them to about 15-18 ft lbs. I learned this method a long time ago, when using a 3/8 ratchet grip it at the head and torque it tll it feels snug, I've checked before and usually get close to 15-16ft lbs, if your not confident please use a torque wrench.

    (here is a picture of my big hand and its placement on the ratchet)

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    Once all your plugs are torqued, pop your coils back in by pushing them in and twisting them very lightly (1/16'' turns or less) just to get them seated onto the plug and to make a good seal with the head. Put the 10MM coil bolts back in each coil, reconnect the harnesses.

    Then get the air box (inspect the air filter if you haven't already) then line up the lower pin with the rubber grommet in the valve cover, it should push back into the bushing line up with the bolt holes.

    Put the rubber breather hose back into the air box holder, then re install the rear bolts, then the front bolt. Put the two front clips back on last, make sure the guide pins on the driver side of the front part of the air box go into the rear box before attaching the metal clips.

    Re install snorkel and 10MM bolt for it (it might take some wiggling to get into the air box).

    Very easy! just have patience and if you know your going to drop bolts have a magnet, flashlight, clean work area (to look for them under the car).
    Last edited by alex16; 03-22-2015 at 06:55 AM.
    2014 ES F5MBD aka 5MT. I am a full time Uber driver, if you want to drive for uber DO not sign up without my referral code for a bonus .

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 44.8 mpg (US) ... 19.1 km/L ... 5.2 L/100 km ... 53.9 mpg (Imp)


  3. The Following 7 Users Say Thank You to alex16 For This Useful Post:

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    Good job. just a note. you can buy sparkplug socket robber already inside so you don't drop any plugs.

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    mohammad (10-31-2021)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chubby View Post
    Good job. just a note. you can buy spark plug socket robber already inside so you don't drop any plugs.
    I've had one of those MAC sockets with the rubber to hold the plug for at least 25 years. Try changing the plugs on a 4 cylinder (8 plugs) 1997 Ford Ranger. You can't even touch a couple of the plugs on the intake side. No way you could do that job without the rubber grommet socket.

    Another nice thing is a pinned impact extension. The socket will not come off unless you actually push the end of the pin in to release it.

    Another good idea is to break the plugs loose, then blow the recess out with compressed air to prevent any debris from falling into the cylinder when you take them the rest of the way out.

    Last but not least, when you first break the plug loose, try moving it in BOTH directions, just a little bit, to break the corrosion bond. I can't tell you how many really tight bolts and nuts have come loose with that little secret, even in a 1965 Honda CUB that had not seen a wrench in 50 years.

    I have drilled out hundreds of bolts and studs, Nissan-Datsun Z car engines were notorious for breaking off the 1st and last exhaust manifold studs. I even drilled out and removed a few without removing the exhaust manifold or gasket, when I caught them early enough.

    regards
    mech

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        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage de 1.2 manual: 55.7 mpg (US) ... 23.7 km/L ... 4.2 L/100 km ... 66.9 mpg (Imp)


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  8. #5
    I should get some anti seize on my spark plug threads for the remaining 96K miles they will be bolted down.
    Is that really the service interval??

    Definitely worth doing this so you know they'll come out easily later when you need to get 'em out.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 63.2 mpg (US) ... 26.9 km/L ... 3.7 L/100 km ... 75.9 mpg (Imp)


  9. #6
    Member ThunderG's Avatar
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    The service interval is 105k miles for iridium tipped plugs. I had never heard of iridium before so I looked it up. Its a member of the platinum family and the most corrosion resistant metal on earth

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage DE 1.2 manual: 48.2 mpg (US) ... 20.5 km/L ... 4.9 L/100 km ... 57.9 mpg (Imp)


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    Uber Mirage alex16's Avatar
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    Yes I believe your correct @ 105K service for the spark plugs. They are Iridium NGK plugs Part # 93298 . With every iridium plug I've seen they come pre gapped and you do not want to gap them if you don't have to (can crack/damage the indium coating).

    Most people won't need to do this if they are doing their valves themselves, they can wait for the 30K and pull them out then (makes the engine super easy to turn over...well at least it did for my aircooled volkwswagens... I can only imagine a 1.2 tripple). But if your doing the dealership valve adjustment approach you might want to do this (some techs just bump the engine over with the starter or he man the engine).


    I first searched the NGK Part # 93298 after I bought my Mirage and they were close to $12 a plug. I found them now on rock auto $18 for all 3 shipped to my door (with discount code).
    2014 ES F5MBD aka 5MT. I am a full time Uber driver, if you want to drive for uber DO not sign up without my referral code for a bonus .

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 44.8 mpg (US) ... 19.1 km/L ... 5.2 L/100 km ... 53.9 mpg (Imp)


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    Hi, what's the ideal electrode gap?

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    The 2015 Mitsubishi factory repair manual says new plugs should measure .040-.043 inch. Worn plugs should have a gap max of .060 inch. Or 1.0mm to 1.1mm not to exceed max of 1.5mm

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage ES 1.2 automatic: 45.8 mpg (US) ... 19.5 km/L ... 5.1 L/100 km ... 55.0 mpg (Imp)


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    Senior Member stevedmc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Murkshev View Post
    The 2015 Mitsubishi factory repair manual says new plugs should measure .040-.043 inch. Worn plugs should have a gap max of .060 inch. Or 1.0mm to 1.1mm not to exceed max of 1.5mm
    I'm a firm believer in NGK plugs. I run them in everything I own. I change them every 100k miles.

    On this change, the old plugs were. 050 across the board. I could have probably got another 100k miles out of them.

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