power fluctuating / headlights dimming problem

[Eggman]

Were there any modifications to your Mirage, Gunlak?

[gunlak]

Were there any modifications to your Mirage, Gunlak?

for the electronics, only the osram nightbreaker unlimited for my hl bulb. aftermarket foglamps was installed w/ nokya h11 yellow bulbs. bosch ec6 horns. and an led dome light in place of the festoon.
mostly are mechanical mods like the intake, exhaust, ssuspension.


based on the video i posted, theres still some fluctuating on the headlights but the volt drop is very minimal about .01-.02 when kicking in electronics.

not sure but i felt the bogging down at lower gears were gone.. some pretty good snake oil i must say.

i tested turning on all the electronics..

everything on without the rear window heater =14.5v
everything on with the heater = 13.3v

i guess things are pretty normal. left the box overnight and it stayed at a healthy reading of 12.9v. will test this out for the whole week.

[Eggman]

One poster here in this thread mentioned changing alternator pulleys. I wonder if Mitsubishi has the alternator pulley set to turn slower to reduce any drag on the engine. That could be one explanation.

[91cavgt]

Bottomline:
If you do not have the tools, better bring the car to the service dealer to check these.

This one statement says it all. If you don't know exactly what you are doing without having to rely on the internet to help you then you either need someone who knows what they are doing to help you, or you need to have the dealer take care of the problem.

[Eggman]

I'm pretty sure even dealer service techs will use the internet once in a while...

Where's your sense of adventure?

[gunlak]

The volt stabilizer I installed "works". Once you turned off the car, It'll slowly work it's way down from 14.6v down to 13v in a minute or two. But I'll remove this in the end of the week. Got to return it and I don't notice any real gains from it.

as much as possible, i'd like to do this on my own. dealing with the dealership here in our country is a pain in the ass.
their service is lousy. just getting your car in for warranty requires a LOT of paperwork (up to the point they'd blame you for voiding the warranty and not granting it. less job for them). It would take weeks or months to do so., they'd charge you extra for everything they do, it'll take days for your car to be finished, and once it's finished work would be subpar and/or more problems would arise.

I guess this isn't really much of a "problem" per se. Again, everything's working as they should and it really doesn't bother me anymore.

[91cavgt]

I'm pretty sure even dealer service techs will use the internet once in a while...

Where's your sense of adventure?

There are some things that the internet is GREAT for figuring out how to do things and to save a bit of money. When it comes to wiring though, something as simple as a bad crimp can increase the resistance of the wire, and thus can make your upgraded 4 gauge wires have more resistance than the stock tiny wires. A bad crimp can also end up with wires coming out of the terminal. I have even seen a wire that someone crimped with a 4 gauge ring terminal and the guy could not figure out why his amplifier was not getting power. He said he followed a video instruction on how to do it all and that it should have worked. Well, if he would have stripped the plastic insulation off of the wire before crimping the terminal then it would have worked fine!

[Eggman]

Well, if he would have stripped the plastic insulation off of the wire before crimping the terminal then it would have worked fine!

And he learned an important lesson in electrical wiring, and might even make the same silly mistake again. Sounds like it was easily fixed, too.