Okay, so install at my shop by myself, a skilled tech, took roughly 20 minutes. The oem springs are so soft and barely under compression that my shop spring compressor had zero difficulty compressing them. So I did the fronts first. I kept the labels upright as to give an idea of top and bottom. The springs are labeled F and R (front and rear respectively.)
First edit: Front center hub to fender while on ground (not lifted) is 13 1/4th and rear center hub to fender is 11 5/8ths. Measure your oem height to compared. The center of your rims mitsubishi logo to fender straight line, touch both the wheel and fender with the tape to esnure a proper read (yes tape measure is at an angle.) Although there is a difference front and rear, ground to side skirt is 7 inches front and rear, so it is level.... which is odd to me that there is such a difference hub to fender wise.
(sorry no pics i had to pay for shop time)....
Take wheels off.
17mm socket and wrench (also 17mm) (or 2 wrench, w.e, i used an impact to make life simple). Take off both bolts holding the strut to the hub.
Behind the strut is the brake line and the abs sensor. There is a 10mm bolt to take the clip off for the sensor, and the brake line is a rubber grommet you pull up on. I wiggled it fairly rough and it came free easy.
Then go top side and take the two 14mm nuts off (going off quick memory lols) under the hood.
The strut is now free. They will drop down on their own so be sure to have your hand under n ready. My car barely has a little over 1700 miles so it was stupid clean and easy to crack things loose.
Then use a spring compressor to tighten the spring so its loose inside the strut. Use a 15mm to crack the nut loose. I used a 3/8ths impact. I do not recommend this as you could blow out strut seals. The proper way is with the proper tool. If you rent spring compressors rent the tool for the strut nut! I take no responsibility if you **** your **** up.
Put the new spring in the spring compressor. Put back together in the order you took off. Index the spring, there are bumps that sit on the spring ends. Make sure they are right.
Take the tires off. Simply loosen the bolt holding the strut to the rear frame. Its a 15mm. Crack it loose and pull it out. Then that side can drop, push it down and pull out the spring. Install the oem dampers on the top and bottom respectively on the new spring. Use a jack (if doing on ground) to push the rear back up to slide the shock bolt in.
Initial test drive.
So, i took a quick drive. Already body roll has been reduced by at least 70-80%. I mean seriously, i drive like an asshole and i admit it. I will seriously race everywhere because "fun". The body roll before springs, you turn and the car leans fairly hard. Now the lean is basically gone. I mean wow. The difference is night and day. So far i have not experienced a seesaw effect at all. Its been smooth sailing. The only thing I've noticed is the rear is so tight now, that under hard cornering it skitters a bit like stiffer cars do. I actually really like these lowering springs. My only complaint now is the dampening of oem crappy shocks and they are crappy. Ill update when i get home with my 30 min drive home review.
Okay, update from the drive home.
I leave work pretty angry so already I'm driving even more like an ass. Sharp high speed turns etc. The whole drive home actually wasn't bad at all and I rather enjoyed the stiffness and much less body roll. There was a few times when the oem dampers just could NOT handle the load being forced into them. With light oem springs, everything is cushy and you don't notice how **** the dampers are. Hitting a few pot holes and the like, I noticed much more stiffness but also less ability to dampen those bumps. The stiffer springs seem to not match the oem shocks/dampers at all. This is a little sad. Granted, I can live with it, it would have been nice if it didn't have this issue. The rear feels like its bottoming out, which others have stated, but its not actually bottoming out, the dampers cannot handle the hit's its getting as it should, and thus the springs are pushing the wheel back to the ground faster than the damper can "dampen" the hit and thus this gives you a really ****ty feeling. I assume this is also where the see-saw effect is coming in. I assume others have more "weathered" dampers, and thus when hitting said bump, the spring is reacting faster than the damper causing the rear to kinda of push up instead of actually dampening the hit, thus causing a see-saw effect. (i think?). But, as far as 70.88 goes, with tax and free shipping, I honestly cannot complain for the cost to performance ratio. In fact, I would even go to say that these springs are as good as 120-150 dollar kits for OTHER vehicles, but not beating the higher end kits for either (other cars or the mirage).
I think if you are going to buy coilovers at some point, and just waiting for a good kit or kit that isn't stupid expensive, or whatever reason to wait, but you need lowered, these will do for that time-frame.
Cheers and happy driving.