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Thread: Auto Dynasty Lowering Springs from Amazon.

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    Auto Dynasty Lowering Springs from Amazon.

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    http://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-Mir...ilpage_o00_s00

    Okay, so install at my shop by myself, a skilled tech, took roughly 20 minutes. The oem springs are so soft and barely under compression that my shop spring compressor had zero difficulty compressing them. So I did the fronts first. I kept the labels upright as to give an idea of top and bottom. The springs are labeled F and R (front and rear respectively.)

    First edit: Front center hub to fender while on ground (not lifted) is 13 1/4th and rear center hub to fender is 11 5/8ths. Measure your oem height to compared. The center of your rims mitsubishi logo to fender straight line, touch both the wheel and fender with the tape to esnure a proper read (yes tape measure is at an angle.) Although there is a difference front and rear, ground to side skirt is 7 inches front and rear, so it is level.... which is odd to me that there is such a difference hub to fender wise.

    Quick guide
    (sorry no pics i had to pay for shop time)....

    Take wheels off.

    17mm socket and wrench (also 17mm) (or 2 wrench, w.e, i used an impact to make life simple). Take off both bolts holding the strut to the hub.

    Behind the strut is the brake line and the abs sensor. There is a 10mm bolt to take the clip off for the sensor, and the brake line is a rubber grommet you pull up on. I wiggled it fairly rough and it came free easy.

    Then go top side and take the two 14mm nuts off (going off quick memory lols) under the hood.

    The strut is now free. They will drop down on their own so be sure to have your hand under n ready. My car barely has a little over 1700 miles so it was stupid clean and easy to crack things loose.

    Then use a spring compressor to tighten the spring so its loose inside the strut. Use a 15mm to crack the nut loose. I used a 3/8ths impact. I do not recommend this as you could blow out strut seals. The proper way is with the proper tool. If you rent spring compressors rent the tool for the strut nut! I take no responsibility if you **** your **** up.

    Put the new spring in the spring compressor. Put back together in the order you took off. Index the spring, there are bumps that sit on the spring ends. Make sure they are right.

    The rear.....

    Take the tires off. Simply loosen the bolt holding the strut to the rear frame. Its a 15mm. Crack it loose and pull it out. Then that side can drop, push it down and pull out the spring. Install the oem dampers on the top and bottom respectively on the new spring. Use a jack (if doing on ground) to push the rear back up to slide the shock bolt in.

    That's it!

    Initial test drive.

    So, i took a quick drive. Already body roll has been reduced by at least 70-80%. I mean seriously, i drive like an asshole and i admit it. I will seriously race everywhere because "fun". The body roll before springs, you turn and the car leans fairly hard. Now the lean is basically gone. I mean wow. The difference is night and day. So far i have not experienced a seesaw effect at all. Its been smooth sailing. The only thing I've noticed is the rear is so tight now, that under hard cornering it skitters a bit like stiffer cars do. I actually really like these lowering springs. My only complaint now is the dampening of oem crappy shocks and they are crappy. Ill update when i get home with my 30 min drive home review.

    Okay, update from the drive home.

    I leave work pretty angry so already I'm driving even more like an ass. Sharp high speed turns etc. The whole drive home actually wasn't bad at all and I rather enjoyed the stiffness and much less body roll. There was a few times when the oem dampers just could NOT handle the load being forced into them. With light oem springs, everything is cushy and you don't notice how **** the dampers are. Hitting a few pot holes and the like, I noticed much more stiffness but also less ability to dampen those bumps. The stiffer springs seem to not match the oem shocks/dampers at all. This is a little sad. Granted, I can live with it, it would have been nice if it didn't have this issue. The rear feels like its bottoming out, which others have stated, but its not actually bottoming out, the dampers cannot handle the hit's its getting as it should, and thus the springs are pushing the wheel back to the ground faster than the damper can "dampen" the hit and thus this gives you a really ****ty feeling. I assume this is also where the see-saw effect is coming in. I assume others have more "weathered" dampers, and thus when hitting said bump, the spring is reacting faster than the damper causing the rear to kinda of push up instead of actually dampening the hit, thus causing a see-saw effect. (i think?). But, as far as 70.88 goes, with tax and free shipping, I honestly cannot complain for the cost to performance ratio. In fact, I would even go to say that these springs are as good as 120-150 dollar kits for OTHER vehicles, but not beating the higher end kits for either (other cars or the mirage).

    I think if you are going to buy coilovers at some point, and just waiting for a good kit or kit that isn't stupid expensive, or whatever reason to wait, but you need lowered, these will do for that time-frame.

    Cheers and happy driving.


    Last edited by MetroMPG; 04-14-2016 at 02:25 PM. Reason: (added pic, bold headlines)

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    Are these springs for the Mirage? How much of a drop did you experience?

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    Yes they are springs for the mirage. I didnt measure before because i was in a hurry as in working today. Its claimed 1.5 inch drop front and rear. The springs were shorter than oem.

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    just for record: Yaris/xD rear shocks are the same length. Lower mounting bushing is different diameter though.

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        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage DE 1.2 manual: 46.4 mpg (US) ... 19.7 km/L ... 5.1 L/100 km ... 55.7 mpg (Imp)


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    Updated above. I think for the price, they are worth it. You get a better cornering vehicle with a few draw backs, but not enough to really call it a no buy. I would recommended these IF and ONLY IF you plan to upgrade to coilovers later on. If you plan to just stick to springs, I would buy a more reputable brand!

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    Quote Originally Posted by namco View Post
    ...If you plan to just stick to springs, I would buy a more reputable brand!
    Exactly my thoughts and experience as well.

    Try swapping just the rears back to OEM Nam, you should be pleasantly surprised! It's what I've
    been running for 6 months now, until my Eibachs come in the next few days.

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    Im actually content with the rear. I honestly dont want to go back to oem rears, they were too soft and caused lots od body roll. I can live with how it is. This morning on my drive to work it was very smooth and comfy (highway as apposed to aide roads on my way home last night). I need a dry day to really test them out and today its raining, so no insane tests today.

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    Fair enough, but for the 10 mins it takes to swap them out, it's probably worth trying to see the difference sometime.

    There was a negligible difference in body roll going back to OEM rears in my experience. The fronts kept everything tight and the comfort in the back end
    was back to normal.

    I've mentioned this before, but the Amazon rears are way too soft in both
    stages of compression; I could compress the whole spring leaning on it.
    The rears are definitely stiffer. I'll be measuring the difference between OEM
    and the Amazon rears once the Eibachs come in.
    Last edited by Littlestan; 04-07-2016 at 01:08 PM.

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    I wish that Auto Dynasty would put what the spring rates actually are.

    The oem springs arent stiffer. As i wrote in my review, the rear is so stiff now that when high speed hard conering the rear skitters. Kind of like hopping. Its just like any car that goes to stiffer springs with a weak shock. The shocks definately need to be replaced, which I will be doing when a reasonably priced coil over setup is released that is fair price with both adjustable height and dampening. The BC set i saw on another forum post is 900+ dollars. For a car like ours, 900 should give us serperate jounce and rebound adjustments on the shock for even finer tuning. It dont. So for me i think its overpriced. The tein are priced decently but there is no damper adjustment.

    The age old saying, dampers should be as soft as possible but stiff enough to handle your roads correctly. Body roll can be a good thing like in rally where it helps with constant weight transisions. Rock hard is good for circuit where the roads are butter smooth (not like ****ty street roads). I like fine tuning. A set of coilovers for my sti with seperate jounce and rebound at 1800 and considering the car itself that price is resonable as most basic coilivers are 600 with no damper ajustment and 1200 with adjustment. 900 for the bc is lower than an sti of comparable coiliver but still. Im going to hold out awhile. I can live with these springs.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Littlestan View Post
    There was a negligible difference in body roll going back to OEM rears in my experience. The fronts kept everything tight and the comfort in the back end was back to normal.
    This makes sense to me, as I would expect most of the weight of this platform is on the front suspension.

    I'm curious - does anyone know the weight distribution on these cars? Has anyone measured?




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        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 48.8 mpg (US) ... 20.7 km/L ... 4.8 L/100 km ... 58.6 mpg (Imp)


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