uh so if I'm mostly driven it on a steady speed the whole time i won't break it? I just occasionally driving it hard but am almost at 1000 km now after a week and the engine's still very lazy. Is it hopeless already? what do u recommend me to do?
uh so if I'm mostly driven it on a steady speed the whole time i won't break it? I just occasionally driving it hard but am almost at 1000 km now after a week and the engine's still very lazy. Is it hopeless already? what do u recommend me to do?
__________________________________________
View my fuel log 2013 Mirage 1.0 manual: 47.5 mpg (US) ... 20.2 km/L ... 5.0 L/100 km ... 57.0 mpg (Imp)
Most of your ring wear is already set in by now so trying to do something diffrent may not help , but then again there's only one way to find out. It's honestly not a huge deal but it can make a difference in the end. Just be sure to do what ever your gonna do safely because you could do more harm then good. I have a link saved somewhere that goes into great depth about breaking in motors and of I can find it ill post it up.
Daily: 2017 Mirage G4 SE - Not Boosted Yet!
Current Project: Working on legitimate Mirage Tuning.
What do you guys and gals recommend in order to properly break in a new Mirage's engine?
Slow and steady (like the manual recommends), or fast and furious (like motoman recommends)?
I went all out. Mine just hit 1200km. Both ways have their positives and negatives
I get where the logic comes from, but I don't know that I can accept it for fact. I have a 10 yr./120k mile bumper to bumper warranty, so I'm not worried about mine.................
-Billy
__________________________________________
View my fuel log 2014 Mirage DE 1.2 manual: 37.6 mpg (US) ... 16.0 km/L ... 6.2 L/100 km ... 45.2 mpg (Imp)
It seems to me that neither method will cause catastrophic failure. From what motoman writes, the issue would be a loss of peak power and a less-clean engine over time. It really does make one wonder, though, why all manufacturers recommend the slow and easy approach. Maybe it is worse for their reputation to have one engine out of 100 000 seize due to a defect than to have all of them produce a couple less horsepower or only last 18 years instead of 20?
__________________________________________
View my fuel log 2014 Mirage SE 1.2 manual: 45.0 mpg (US) ... 19.1 km/L ... 5.2 L/100 km ... 54.1 mpg (Imp)
I did both, but in the end it depends on how you finally would use the car. I don't really need peak powers since I usually drive quite slowly. And cleaner engine? I'm not planning on using this car to its end. Within 2-4 years I will get a new one, preferably attrage.
I prefer the slow and easy though. Mind you that after 5k of driving the car will just get better and after 10k of driving will the car be at its best.
__________________________________________
View my fuel log 2013 Mirage 1.0 manual: 47.5 mpg (US) ... 20.2 km/L ... 5.0 L/100 km ... 57.0 mpg (Imp)
OEMs design their own equipment and generally know best how to take care of it. I'd follow the manufacturer's suggestion.
Custom Mirage products: Cruise control kit, Glove box light, MAF sensor housing, Rear sway bar, Upper grill block
Current project: DIY Nitrous oxide setup for ~$100
__________________________________________
View my fuel log 2015 Mirage DE 1.2 manual: 47.2 mpg (US) ... 20.1 km/L ... 5.0 L/100 km ... 56.7 mpg (Imp)
fc321 (03-02-2016)
if you plan on driving it hard, break it in hard. If you plan on driving it mild, break It in easily
Thanks for all your input, everyone.
I think the reasoning behind motoman's recommendation is to create the tightest cylinder seal, which would result in more power (if that's what you're interested in). However, "more power" equals "more mpg and fuel savings", in this equation