Adding OEM Cruise Control On A 2017 Mirage G4

[Cobrajet]

I don't understand it either eggman. When I left the dealership yesterday with the master switch that goes on the steering wheel. They couldn't get a hold of Mitsubishi tech support because they weren't open yet. I'm on eastern time and apparently they are on pacific time. So me, the technician and the parts guys were all huddled around the computer trying to figure out the clutch disengagement switch and brake switch. They had my VIN number trying to look all of it up and it wasn't showing anything but the 2 prong brake switch and the clutch safety switch. So the parts guy went up one number on the VIN and got a CVT model and it was showing the clutch disengagement switch and a 4 terminal brake switch. So they told me to go ahead and go to work and they would get a hold of Mitsu tech support when they opened and call me. So it was about an hour later when they did and told me the news. So apparently, the rub is over the 2 switches plugging in on the ECM. They told me it would have to be "frankensteined" to make it work. As bad as I want it to work with the OEM switch. I don't want it all hacked up. But it still begs the question in my mind. Why would they go through all the trouble to run the wiring harness for it to the steering wheel and not fix it where it could be added?

Is it possible that the switches already on the brake and clutch pedals are multi-function? I mean, the clutch pedal already has an interlock function which must feed into the ETACS. Maybe the brake pedal switch (for the brake lights) is connected to the ETACS as well? With ABS, traction control, etc, I'd be amazed if the brake pedal switch wasn't already sending a signal to the ETACS every time it is depressed.

I guess what I am saying is that these cars have most of their electronic functions controlled by one box, not like older cars where the cruise control was essentially a separate system. If there isn't a part number for separate clutch/brake switches for cruise-equipped cars, that may because the clutch/brake switches already there also handle the cruise disengagement function in the ETACS.

This may be a lot simpler...in terms of parts...than you are trying to make it. The car may just need the actual cruise master switch, and possibly a relay or two, along with the activation in the ETACS. Just because a Mitsubishi tech doesn't know how to use an MUT3 doesn't mean what you are asking is impossible.

As was mentioned, this has actually already been done. It should be easier with the base '17 cars because a switch can be added to the steering wheel instead of the whole wheel requiring replacement.

I have also wondered if each ETACS unit is coded to a particular car (like BMW does) or if they are interchangeable. Could you get an ETACS from a wrecked car with cruise control, swap it with the ETACS in your car, and have the cruise function work?

Just thinking out loud...

[MightyMirageMpg]

So apparently, the rub is over the 2 switches plugging in on the ECM. They told me it would have to be "frankensteined" to make it work. As bad as I want it to work with the OEM switch. I don't want it all hacked up. But it still begs the question in my mind?

Assuming the dealer is correct,.. So what! You'll hopefully never see the wires again in your lifetime.

Just because you have to cut some wires doesn't mean you necessary have done a poor job.


Honestly though I would revisit EGGMAN' s suggestion, and take it to a different dealer or do it yourself. I'm no mitsu tech but something tells me EGG is right and the 14-17 is generally wired the same

[MightyMirageMpg]

nt.

I have also wondered if each ETACS unit is coded to a particular car (like BMW does) or if they are interchangeable. Could you get an ETACS from a wrecked car with cruise control, swap it with the ETACS in your car, and have the cruise function work?

Just thinking out loud...

Very interesting idea!

[Patrick_Henry]

Is it possible that the switches already on the brake and clutch pedals are multi-function? I mean, the clutch pedal already has an interlock function which must feed into the ETACS. Maybe the brake pedal switch (for the brake lights) is connected to the ETACS as well? With ABS, traction control, etc, I'd be amazed if the brake pedal switch wasn't already sending a signal to the ETACS every time it is depressed.

I guess what I am saying is that these cars have most of their electronic functions controlled by one box, not like older cars where the cruise control was essentially a separate system. If there isn't a part number for separate clutch/brake switches for cruise-equipped cars, that may because the clutch/brake switches already there also handle the cruise disengagement function in the ETACS.

This may be a lot simpler...in terms of parts...than you are trying to make it. The car may just need the actual cruise master switch, and possibly a relay or two, along with the activation in the ETACS. Just because a Mitsubishi tech doesn't know how to use an MUT3 doesn't mean what you are asking is impossible.

As was mentioned, this has actually already been done. It should be easier with the base '17 cars because a switch can be added to the steering wheel instead of the whole wheel requiring replacement.

I have also wondered if each ETACS unit is coded to a particular car (like BMW does) or if they are interchangeable. Could you get an ETACS from a wrecked car with cruise control, swap it with the ETACS in your car, and have the cruise function work?

Just thinking out loud...

It's entirely possible. I'm sure it can be done, there's no doubt in my mind about that. Where there's a will there's a way. I used to be a diesel mechanic, so I'm mechanically inclined. But I don't have access to a shop manual, wiring schematics, etc... The MUT tool from what I've seen is very expensive as well. So here's my thought. I'm going to talk to another dealer and see what they have to say. In the meantime, I'm going to try and find a number for Mitsu tech support and talk to them myself. I do know for a fact that there's no clutch disengagement switch. And according to the dealer I bought it from, there's not one available.

[poorman1]

http://mirageforum.com/forum/showthr...5-speed-Manual

[tytotheler92]

When I contemplated purchasing at 2015 for myself, the dealer offered me a Mitsubishi cruise setup that went into one of the blanks next to the traction control button.....

Not sure if it actually exists? I was shown a picture though.

[Patrick_Henry]

When I contemplated purchasing at 2015 for myself, the dealer offered me a Mitsubishi cruise setup that went into one of the blanks next to the traction control button.....

Not sure if it actually exists? I was shown a picture though.

Just wondering if it looked anything like this one. This is the Rostra aftermarket setup that I bought. I went through great lengths to try and use the OEM setup. But after a trip to the dealer where I bought the car and then a different dealer. I was told the same thing. There was no way to make it work. So I wound up with this aftermarket setup that works well now. I really didn't want to be splicing into wires on a brand new vehicle. But that's what you have to do apparently if you want it on a 2017 Mirage that didn't come with it. It took me several days to get it finished up because the directions that came with it are just about useless. I had to guess my way through most of it. I had to wind up calling Rostra tech support on Wednesday because I finally was able to get it to engage but couldn't get it to disengage with the brake pedal. Just about all of the wiring diagrams that came with the kit are wrong. They've got you tapping into the wrong wires. There must have been something different about the 2017's because it's a different kit than the others. The 250-9633 kit works from 2013-2016 models. Another poster found one on ebay that had the dash switch included with it instead of the stalk. I inquired as to if that would work with my 2017 and was told no. But was told that if I bought the 250-1885 kit, I could use the 250-3593 dash switch with it instead of the stalk. So that's what I did although I'm a little upset with the directions that came with the kit. I hacked into several wires that I wasn't supposed to because of the errant directions. If anyone is interested in it I'll do a follow up on the proper way to do it so someone else doesn't go through what I went through.

[Alex1a1f]

Besides the issues you had installing... How does it work otherwise?

[Patrick_Henry]

Besides the issues you had installing... How does it work otherwise?

Just like it's supposed to so far. The switch is still partially obscured by the steering wheel when it's straight. But I know which button is which so it's not a real big deal. I believe I would've had a much harder time with the stalk.

[tytotheler92]

Just wondering if it looked anything like this one. This is the Rostra aftermarket setup that I bought. I went through great lengths to try and use the OEM setup. But after a trip to the dealer where I bought the car and then a different dealer. I was told the same thing. There was no way to make it work. So I wound up with this aftermarket setup that works well now. I really didn't want to be splicing into wires on a brand new vehicle. But that's what you have to do apparently if you want it on a 2017 Mirage that didn't come with it. It took me several days to get it finished up because the directions that came with it are just about useless. I had to guess my way through most of it. I had to wind up calling Rostra tech support on Wednesday because I finally was able to get it to engage but couldn't get it to disengage with the brake pedal. Just about all of the wiring diagrams that came with the kit are wrong. They've got you tapping into the wrong wires. There must have been something different about the 2017's because it's a different kit than the others. The 250-9633 kit works from 2013-2016 models. Another poster found one on ebay that had the dash switch included with it instead of the stalk. I inquired as to if that would work with my 2017 and was told no. But was told that if I bought the 250-1885 kit, I could use the 250-3593 dash switch with it instead of the stalk. So that's what I did although I'm a little upset with the directions that came with the kit. I hacked into several wires that I wasn't supposed to because of the errant directions. If anyone is interested in it I'll do a follow up on the proper way to do it so someone else doesn't go through what I went through.

It did, but i didn't think it would stick out so far. Wow.

I have a Rostra kit in my 1985 Blazer, it works well also but i was able to get the stock mulitfunction switch to work.