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Thread: Brake drum locknut size? Answer: 30 mm

  1. #11
    Senior Member MightyMirageMpg's Avatar
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    Your probably right



  2. #12
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    The amount of time it has taken me to actually go buy a 30mm socket and take the brakes apart is a testament to how rarely this issue happens. I've got about 24,000km now. It continues to have a couple of days (sometimes hours) of squeakiness, but otherwise they're totally silent. So anyway, I finally did it today, and there is nothing that would obviously make a squeaking sound. No metal-on-metal contact that I can see.

    However, you can see that one of the shoes is worn alot more than the other. I'm guessing that the squeaking issue has something to do with this. I need to bring it to the dealer again for them to deal with my alignment issues, so I will get them to check this out as well (should be covered under warranty).

    I had planned to put some more grease on contact points, but it turned out I didn't have any in my toolbox (d'oh). I still sprayed brake cleaner around to get rid of any dust. The drum itself is smooth all around with no deep grooves.

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  4. #13
    Moderator Eggman's Avatar
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    Those are some nice pictures. It'll help someone else make sense of the whole arrangement, and maybe even help put things back in their right place. Thanks for posting them.

    Did you have any trouble figuring out the self-adjusting mechanism?

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        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 49.6 mpg (US) ... 21.1 km/L ... 4.7 L/100 km ... 59.5 mpg (Imp)


  5. #14
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    I didn't have to do any adjustments since I didn't actually remove any parts besides the drum itself. I have adjusted drum brakes on different vehicles before; this one looks a fair bit different compared to the ones I've done though.

    Spraying brake cleaner didn't do anything, as I expected. Just today I pulled into the bank, they were squeaking, left the bank, and they were fine. Will update when I get more info.

  6. #15
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    Are the "locking nuts" designed to be reused or replaced? also should they be re-torqued after a certain number of km like lug nuts? I bought new hub nuts, I was expecting to see an integrated nylon lock washer. But instead they just have a flat side in the nut, the nut isnt round. A little scary thinking this is all that holds a rear wheel to the car. Name:  IMG_1959.jpg
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  7. #16
    They're meant to be reused.

    You're right - the threads are pressed slightly flat on one side. That adds a lot of friction to the thread contact, similar to the role of a nylon ring on that kind of nut.

    The torque specification is something like 129 ft-lbs.

    This thread is a very good reference:

    Thread: Rear drum brake removal/replacement: An introduction

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 63.2 mpg (US) ... 26.9 km/L ... 3.7 L/100 km ... 75.9 mpg (Imp)


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  9. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by MetroMPG View Post
    They're meant to be reused.

    You're right - the threads are pressed slightly flat on one side. That adds a lot of friction to the thread contact, similar to the role of a nylon ring on that kind of nut.

    The torque specification is something like 129 ft-lbs.

    This thread is a very good reference:

    Thread: Rear drum brake removal/replacement: An introduction
    Prevailing torque locking nut (Stover lock nut)

    It has a locking mechanism that’s built into the cone, as you put it on, it starts to act like a locking nut, its self-contained feature creates frictional interference between the threads of the mating components. When fastening a prevailing torque lock nut, there is a resistance to rotation during both assembly and disassembly requiring them to be wrenched; that resistance is called prevailing torque. They can be adjusted or removed after installation.

    these are the old school lock nuts before nylocks
    if you have been taking them on and off a lot they will lose their "lock" mostly. ( maybe 20 times and i would think ahard about new ones or re warp/lock the end) or if you make your rear brakes smoke and get crazy hot.

    you can buy new ones, or do what the old timers do. tighten them up , and use a small (5mm) punch on the edge with a medium hammer and a little hate and relock them by warping the treads at the end again. ( if you look close you can see that was how it was done)
    these are not grade 8 or 5 hardened nuts, the top half is pretty soft.
    using a impact gun could make them lose what temper they have and make them pretty useless.
    Last edited by nutpantz; 06-01-2022 at 07:03 PM.

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  11. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Top_Fuel View Post
    The installation and removal of that "self-locking" nut is somewhat unique. The following images are from the shop manual...

    Attachment 9533

    Attachment 9534
    Is this drum nut torque spec universal across all Mirage variants? I mean is it the same for the 14-15, 17-23? Or is it specific, etc.?

    I'm literally trying to torque my drum nuts right now.

  12. #19
    I use the same torque. A few ugga dugga’s. I assume the actual specs are the same for all years, the nut is the same and I’m 99.7% sure the bearing and trailing axle is the same too.
    Mirage videos:

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        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage SE wussie cvt edition. 1.2 automatic: 37.7 mpg (US) ... 16.0 km/L ... 6.2 L/100 km ... 45.3 mpg (Imp)


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  14. #20
    I also assumed the nut and axle have remained the same, I torqued them to 129 ft lbs. Thank you!



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