I use honda jazz filters. No problems after 5 oil changes.
I currently fill it using Q8 5w-30.
I use honda jazz filters. No problems after 5 oil changes.
I currently fill it using Q8 5w-30.
2013 Honda Vario CBS VB
2014 Mitsubishi Mirage CVT EGM
2015 Toyota Innova 2.5V AT SMM
2013 Proton Preve CFE CVT PW
2013 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport PX CVT PW
2016 Mitsubishi Pajero Sport Dakar AT TGM Limited
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View my fuel log 2014 Mirage Exceed 1.2 automatic: 39.0 mpg (US) ... 16.6 km/L ... 6.0 L/100 km ... 46.8 mpg (Imp)
Usually a filter should be good for at least the duration of two oil changes, but:
A) You can't really tell when when it is so much saturated that the bypass becomes active. Otherwise said you don't know when it stops filtering, and when it stops filtering it is just as neat as an overflowing garbage can.
B) If you use an excellent and very efficient filter such as the FILTRON OP575 that is capable of filtering out extremely small particles down to 1 to 2µm, it will trap much more particles. If it does capture more it will need to be changed timely with the oil. It doesn't pay not to change it in time.
I use the Filtron OP575, because it has the best-working non-return valve, the better filtering capability is just a bonus. I definitely change it every time the oil gets changed! At one-sixth the price of a tank of fuel, I would be a idiot if I didn't.
The preferred (and effortless!) method for changing is by filter cap, such as described in the FSM.
Last edited by foama; 10-07-2017 at 06:55 PM.
Eggman (10-07-2017)
I like the description of the Stainless lifetime oil filter type despite the high cost. What I like in particular is the promised/claimed better oil flow and filtering. Pumping loss is reduced too, so that would translate to better fuel economy. I may be using this filter come 2018.
From what I've heard those stainless lifetime filters are really just rock catchers. The filtering efficiency is supposed to be terrible. It really makes sense as its just overlapping stainless mesh.
I am trying to justify the extra cash spent on a higher quality oil filter and actually want some "value added". Because if its just going to last for the 7500 miles than I may as while buy a cheap FRAM filter for $5
Also looking to reduce environmental waste and it would be nice to keep a filter for 2 oil changes before tossing it.
And yes, I am looking to "cheap out" on a $10 part if it is not absolutely necessary. Would rather give $10 to a bum than to waste it. Would rather donate $10 to the animal shelter than to waste it.
2015 Mirage DE 5 speed Manual - 30k miles
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View my fuel log 2015 Mirage DE 1.2 manual: 44.9 mpg (US) ... 19.1 km/L ... 5.2 L/100 km ... 53.9 mpg (Imp)
Eggman (10-09-2017)
I usually run purolator or wix as they are made very well and don't cost a ton.
There's some disagreement over Purolator products here:
BITOG: Engine Oil Filters » List of Purolator failures
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View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 49.6 mpg (US) ... 21.1 km/L ... 4.7 L/100 km ... 59.5 mpg (Imp)
Half the time I have my local dealership change my oil, so they use that tiny black Mitsubishi filter. I dont like it. It causes so much engine rattle at startup. This past oil change I bought the Fram XG7317. The rattle issue isnt totally eliminated, but I swear it seems like its not nearly as bad. Is this rattle at startup bad engine design or something else? I'm no mechanic.
No, it's a combination of many filters having a weak anti-drainback feature and 0w20 oil. It's so thin that I'm not sure that any filter will be 100% effective. I use the Fram XG7317 also due to it's favorable reviews on BITOG and 5w30 oil. It virtually eliminated the issue.
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View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 automatic: 40.5 mpg (US) ... 17.2 km/L ... 5.8 L/100 km ... 48.6 mpg (Imp)