Warm Air Intake - Intercooler as an intake heater

[Fummins]

Considering the 3A92 uses a plastic intake manifold, maximum temperature is a very valid concern.

I wouldn't worry too much about heat, the radiator has plastic tanks.

[Daox]

You could put the heat exchanger in the air box if you also put an air bleeder screw/valve to let the air bubble out as air will get trapped at the highest point in the system. Excellent point though.

[Eggman]

You could put the heat exchanger in the air box if you also put an air bleeder screw/valve to let the air bubble out as air will get trapped at the highest point in the system. Excellent point though.

Just thinking out loud (with the Brain Trust's attention...)

What would be the best approach to bleeding air? I don't think an air pocket would be eliminated by filling through the coolant reservoir with the engine off and at room temperature, so I suppose the best way would be while the engine is operating at temperature (and under pressure) with thermostat open.

Right?

[MightyMirageMpg]

I wouldnt try anything like that. Steam is very dangerous.

[Eggman]

I wouldnt try anything like that. Steam is very dangerous.

My thoughts exactly. Though I suppose it could somehow be done in a controlled manner that minimizes risk of injury. OR simply lower the assembly below the highest point to fill, then put in place.

[MightyMirageMpg]

think i would Buy DOAX maf housing, and the exchanger you pictured initially (round water to air, looks like muffler) and mount it next to the battery, above the coolant hose but below the overflow tube.

You inspired me, i changed my settings on my UG and now and I'm thinking of stealing your drier duct lol

[Eggman]

think i would Buy DOAX maf housing, and the exchanger you pictured initially (round water to air, looks like muffler) and mount it next to the battery, above the coolant hose but below the overflow tube.

I'm interested in the housing but only if it includes a forum sticker. I've cooled off from the aluminum intercooler tamale.


I'd give you the left over piece if you were closer.

On a trip yesterday I saw intake temperatures 40° above ambient and an improvement of 65 mpg highway v. 60 mpg highway.

[Eggman]

Is that your coffee mug?

[MightyMirageMpg]

Yes lol

[foama]

Hey guys,
let me sum up a few thoughts...

1) Most enrichment occurs when it is cold. The colder, the more.The longer the car needs to warm up, the more enrichment it gets, and for a longer period. Consequence being, the colder it is, the more fuel gets burned.

2) With intake air being warmer (just as with coolant being warmer), the mapping is told it needs less enrichment (less fuel). Remember, the ECU receives A) coolant temp info, and B) intake air temp info.

3) When warming up and warm intake air is needed most, the coolant is cold. So much for a coolant-to-air heat exchanger. Of course after warm-up the exchanger will work and be beneficial, but it has definite limitations during warm-up when it is needed most.

4) Take a look at the engine assembly!
The resonator-box and the air intake snorkel are basically back to front!
If the snorkel went behind the engine instead of to the front, we would have a very simple, and equally effective warm air intake.
What we do not want to change is the resonance frequency (air volume!) of the total airfilter/resonance-box/intake-snorkel assembly, because it would change the torque curve.


Any ideas how to get the snorkel to lead behind the engine?



Just for the record, The old thread " ECO Mod: Howto reduce level of enrichment when cold " shows how the ECU programming can be easily oversmarted to reduce enrichment and fuel consumption.