SammyI had problems with my rear drums after 160k so instead of buying drums from the dealer I spent 300 and got the whole rear beam, drums and all.
I also want to show how much larger the rear drums on the 2017s are compared to the 2014. 2017 is on the left and 2014 is on the right
Now to get started you will need a plethora of tools
pliers( I used both needle nose and square nose)
misc wrenches and sockets
21 mm for lug nuts
17 mm socket and wrench
10 mm deep and shallow
12 mm socket
Im sure a 14 as well somewhere.
I started by disconnecting the emergency brake. I didnt get any pictures of this but in order to get the carpet up high enough you need to pull both front seats and the rear bench. Along with the 2 plastic piecesthat are on either end of the bench. You will also need to pull the center console. There are 2 bolts holding it and both are hiding under removable panels. One is all the way at the back and the other is underneath the e brake handle. I popped them out with a flat head screwdriver. I believe they were 12mm but Im not 100%. There are also 2 clips on either side at the far front kinda under the dash. They just pop out. Don't lose them....mine may or may not have disappeared when I popped them(they fly pretty far).
Once you get to the emergency brake you will take a 10mm deep well socket and loosen the emergency brake nut. You can see the 2 cables that are part of a t shaped piece of metal. the 10 is the nut. You will need to loosen it pretty far to get the cables loose. If you've removed a throttle cable from a throttle body you'll kinda understand what you need to do.
Next I jacked up the rear of the car to continue getting the cables ready to pull. You will need a 21mm socket to remove the lugs then you can pull both wheels. There are 2 body mounts for the cables on each side. Just follow the cable from the body to the hub assembly.
There is also a heat shield you will have to remove to get to the passenger side cable. There are 4 10mm nuts to remove. Then you will have to shift the shield out of the way which proved to be a little difficult. Once you do you will reveal the rubber seals that the cables go through. They are a pain to pull out AND to put back in on the other end. A little soap helps but not much.
Next we move onto the ABS connectors that are inside the trunk. In order to get to these you will need to pull the side panels that the rear strut towers are behind. there are 4 clips that you need to pull on each side plus a white clip on the inside that you pull hard and should let go.
Youre looking for these
Once you have located them and disconnected we can move back to the outside.
There you will find the place where the connectors go through the body. I was able to pop them from the outside but you may want to try from the inside.
Now My replacement had the brake lines attached. I was able to get my brake lines loose but be very careful. If you round it out you will not have a good time.
So something I found out while doing this was that Mitsubishi changed the routing of the abs sensor. I had to remove the sensor and all the cables then install on the new one. I routed it the same. You lose the hangers that you ziptie to the brake hose(when you look at it youll understand) but I just ziptied one in place on either sidearound the rubber donut thats around the rubber brake line. There must be different brackets and holes in the body on the 2017 because the sensor would not reach if you bolted it in the same way as the 2014.
Once you have disconnected all of those items and ebrake cable you are ready to pull the whole assembly. It is only mounted at 4 points. The bushings attached to the body and the Bushings that the strut goes through and basically bolts to.
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