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Thread: 2014 Rear Beam swap to improved 2017 Rear Beam (suspension / axle)

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    Senior Member Rkt Ship's Avatar
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    2014 Rear Beam swap to improved 2017 Rear Beam (suspension / axle)

    I had problems with my rear drums after 160k so instead of buying drums from the dealer I spent 300 and got the whole rear beam, drums and all.
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    I also want to show how much larger the rear drums on the 2017s are compared to the 2014. 2017 is on the left and 2014 is on the right
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    Now to get started you will need a plethora of tools
    pliers( I used both needle nose and square nose)
    misc wrenches and sockets
    21 mm for lug nuts
    17 mm socket and wrench
    10 mm deep and shallow
    12 mm socket
    Im sure a 14 as well somewhere.

    I started by disconnecting the emergency brake. I didnt get any pictures of this but in order to get the carpet up high enough you need to pull both front seats and the rear bench. Along with the 2 plastic piecesthat are on either end of the bench. You will also need to pull the center console. There are 2 bolts holding it and both are hiding under removable panels. One is all the way at the back and the other is underneath the e brake handle. I popped them out with a flat head screwdriver. I believe they were 12mm but Im not 100%. There are also 2 clips on either side at the far front kinda under the dash. They just pop out. Don't lose them....mine may or may not have disappeared when I popped them(they fly pretty far).
    Once you get to the emergency brake you will take a 10mm deep well socket and loosen the emergency brake nut. You can see the 2 cables that are part of a t shaped piece of metal. the 10 is the nut. You will need to loosen it pretty far to get the cables loose. If you've removed a throttle cable from a throttle body you'll kinda understand what you need to do.

    Next I jacked up the rear of the car to continue getting the cables ready to pull. You will need a 21mm socket to remove the lugs then you can pull both wheels. There are 2 body mounts for the cables on each side. Just follow the cable from the body to the hub assembly.
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    There is also a heat shield you will have to remove to get to the passenger side cable. There are 4 10mm nuts to remove. Then you will have to shift the shield out of the way which proved to be a little difficult. Once you do you will reveal the rubber seals that the cables go through. They are a pain to pull out AND to put back in on the other end. A little soap helps but not much.

    Next we move onto the ABS connectors that are inside the trunk. In order to get to these you will need to pull the side panels that the rear strut towers are behind. there are 4 clips that you need to pull on each side plus a white clip on the inside that you pull hard and should let go.
    Youre looking for these
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    Once you have located them and disconnected we can move back to the outside.
    There you will find the place where the connectors go through the body. I was able to pop them from the outside but you may want to try from the inside.
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    Now My replacement had the brake lines attached. I was able to get my brake lines loose but be very careful. If you round it out you will not have a good time.

    So something I found out while doing this was that Mitsubishi changed the routing of the abs sensor. I had to remove the sensor and all the cables then install on the new one. I routed it the same. You lose the hangers that you ziptie to the brake hose(when you look at it youll understand) but I just ziptied one in place on either sidearound the rubber donut thats around the rubber brake line. There must be different brackets and holes in the body on the 2017 because the sensor would not reach if you bolted it in the same way as the 2014.

    Once you have disconnected all of those items and ebrake cable you are ready to pull the whole assembly. It is only mounted at 4 points. The bushings attached to the body and the Bushings that the strut goes through and basically bolts to.
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  2. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Rkt Ship For This Useful Post:

    01-7700 (12-07-2017),Daox (10-23-2017),MetroMPG (11-10-2017)

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    Senior Member Rkt Ship's Avatar
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    continued from last post
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    I removed the strut first. There is a single 17mm bolt on the bottom for each side. Once removed itll drop down. watch out for this

    Then I went into the trunk space and removed the single nuts at the top of each strut. They are 14mm deep wells. Once both struts are out you can move to the big guys. These are also 17mm you can position a jack underneath to keep it level while you remove them. Mine were a bit stubborn so a lot of moving to get it removed. I had a jack shift because of the movement so be careful here.

    now once youve removed the assembly you can revel in your hardwork and move forward on reinstallation. The reinstallation is the reverse of removal.

    A small sidenote. When you go to reinstall the whole assembly you will need to line up the 2 forward most bushings at the same level it will ride at. Its best to have 2 people for this. After fighting with 2 jacks trying to get it lined up I finally said F*** it and laid down. Put the assembly on my chest and hulk smashed it into place. 2 people would definitely be better but if you have noone this is the best way....its a bit heavy so be careful here.

    Good luck and hope you enjoy this writeup. If you have any questions let me know

  4. The Following 8 Users Say Thank You to Rkt Ship For This Useful Post:

    01-7700 (12-07-2017),alex16 (10-23-2017),Alex1a1f (10-24-2017),daleWV (10-24-2017),Daox (10-23-2017),Fummins (10-24-2017),inuvik (10-23-2017),MetroMPG (11-10-2017)

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    Uber Mirage alex16's Avatar
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    This is awesome. Did you have alignment issues before and are you going to check now with the 17 axle?
    2014 ES F5MBD aka 5MT. I am a full time Uber driver, if you want to drive for uber DO not sign up without my referral code for a bonus .

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 44.8 mpg (US) ... 19.1 km/L ... 5.2 L/100 km ... 53.9 mpg (Imp)


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    Senior Member Rkt Ship's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alex16 View Post
    This is awesome. Did you have alignment issues before and are you going to check now with the 17 axle?
    I never had any alignment issues before and I'm actually taking my car in for an alignment tomorrow Firestone has a lifetime alignment that I set up a while back for like $150 that's basically to alignments and I've had like 10 alignments done since I've owned the car so it paid for itself

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    Uber Mirage alex16's Avatar
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    Wow if your alignment was good before then your axle is still good, someone on here might need/want it! I bet you could get $50-100 as is with the worn brakes.
    2014 ES F5MBD aka 5MT. I am a full time Uber driver, if you want to drive for uber DO not sign up without my referral code for a bonus .

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 44.8 mpg (US) ... 19.1 km/L ... 5.2 L/100 km ... 53.9 mpg (Imp)


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    Everything still working well? Could you notice braking difference or not so much.

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    Daox (12-07-2017)

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    How is the handling with the 2017 springs and shocks?

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 automatic: 49.0 mpg (US) ... 20.8 km/L ... 4.8 L/100 km ... 58.8 mpg (Imp)


  12. #8
    Senior Member Rkt Ship's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alex1a1f View Post
    Everything still working well? Could you notice braking difference or not so much.
    Its still working fine. Cant tell with the braking but, to be fair, I never paid attention much to braking.

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    Senior Member Rkt Ship's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daox View Post
    How is the handling with the 2017 springs and shocks?
    After riding on the teins for so long I can't remember how the stocks felt. They feel fine though.



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    Daox (12-08-2017)

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