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Thread: Massive misfire cylinder 1 -- SOLVED (wire corrosion)

  1. #11
    Senior Member Rkt Ship's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by foama View Post
    Often its the small stuff that gets overseen and gives you a hard time.

    If you want to check if a valve isn't closed, you could pull out the injector and stick a litte USB endoscope down the injector hole.
    On the other hand, if a valve is not closed, compression is gone. If it starts OK and suddenly don't run right, it doesn't look like an open valve.

    It could be something simple, like a corroded plug/socket in a cable assembly inside, on the left side and below the dash. The wires from the ECU go from there via another plug/socket to the injectors.
    That's a good idea to check. It's not a stuck valve though unless it's stick closed. When I opened up the valve cover I didn't have any broken or bent stuff up there.



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    Senior Member Top_Fuel's Avatar
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    Cylinder 1 has been the problem the whole time.
    It's all the time.
    Just checked compression. I have 180 across the board.
    Well...that's good...at least it sounds like you've got it narrowed down to #1 for sure.

    Do you have a spark tester and a noid light? I would use both on cylinder #1 to verify your #1 injector and coil are actually getting a signal from the ECM.

    How to Use a Noid Light

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        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 51.3 mpg (US) ... 21.8 km/L ... 4.6 L/100 km ... 61.6 mpg (Imp)


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    A shot in the dark but have you checked your fuel pressure?At the rail and at the pump. I've had vehicles miss constantly on certain cylinders constantly caused by a weak pump.

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    Senior Member MightyMirageMpg's Avatar
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    Do the injectors have filter baskets and how did they look? Real dirty?

    Also x2 on fuel pressure

    When you pulled the plug was is wet or dry?

    You can check the ECM by setting a voltmeter too DC HERTZ and going parallel over the load. Doing this will give you a reading if the ECM is groundung the inj like its supposed to

    A reading of 2.5vdc on the negative side of the inj leads me to believe your ecm is bad. You should have 12vdc feeding it and 0dc on the other wire with the injector unplugged or 12vdc on both sides of the wire, key on engine off injector plugged in
    Last edited by MightyMirageMpg; 11-16-2017 at 08:37 PM.

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    Moderator Eggman's Avatar
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    Listen to foama.

    I say check the injector electrical connection very carefully. Aside from the coil pack, it was likely the only thing on cylinder 1 you touched when you put the motor in. And you ruled out the coil pack.

    It's unlikely, but sometimes little wires work their way loose and away from their housing, causing problems like what you are describing - meaning, you took stuff apart, put it together, it ran fine for a bit then ran bad.

    It's funny, like it's our car and we're all in it with you.

    Very interesting. Looking forward to the solution.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 49.7 mpg (US) ... 21.1 km/L ... 4.7 L/100 km ... 59.7 mpg (Imp)


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    Senior Member IchabodCrane's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rkt Ship View Post
    Im following mitsubishis protocols in the fsm and it says if its not the ignition components or the compression then its the ecm. It doesnt even take you through fuel stuff to check. Does that seem weird to anyone else?
    I'm thinking it doesn't throw codes for fuel issues.. On Monday it was cold here and my local Shell station had water in the gas. My mirage froze up on the way to work. I was able to limp it at idle speed to get fuel line antifreeze but it quit on me several times along the way. Never threw a single code and check engine light never came on except when turning key on before cranking.
    Will weld for beer.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage SE 1.2 automatic: 45.3 mpg (US) ... 19.3 km/L ... 5.2 L/100 km ... 54.5 mpg (Imp)


  9. #17
    Senior Member Rkt Ship's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MightyMirageMpg View Post
    Do the injectors have filter baskets and how did they look? Real dirty?
    The original ones looked dirty but, lucky me, I had a spare set from the engine I bought. So I swapped them in.
    Also x2 on fuel pressure
    Fuel pressure should be fine. I ran the bottle test where you run the car and allow the fuel to fill a bottle. If it fills in less than 15 seconds you're golden.
    When you pulled the plug was is wet or dry?
    Plugs were dry. I then bought another set just because they looked yucky.
    You can check the ECM by setting a voltmeter too DC HERTZ and going parallel over the load. Doing this will give you a reading if the ECM is groundung the inj like its supposed to
    This seems like a decent idea I'll give it a shot.
    A reading of 2.5vdc on the negative side of the inj leads me to believe your ecm is bad. You should have 12vdc feeding it and 0dc on the other wire with the injector unplugged or 12vdc on both sides of the wire, key on engine off injector plugged in
    I thought it was weird too but I think with key on engine off that the ecu is checking the resistance early before you start. I got 2.5 on all 3 plugs and 12 on the other side. Also if you unplug one of the connectors and run faults it will throw a code. Then if you plug it back in the fault will go away.
    .....

  10. #18
    Senior Member Rkt Ship's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eggman View Post
    Listen to foama.

    I say check the injector electrical connection very carefully. Aside from the coil pack, it was likely the only thing on cylinder 1 you touched when you put the motor in. And you ruled out the coil pack.

    It's unlikely, but sometimes little wires work their way loose and away from their housing, causing problems like what you are describing - meaning, you took stuff apart, put it together, it ran fine for a bit then ran bad.

    It's funny, like it's our car and we're all in it with you.

    Very interesting. Looking forward to the solution.
    Lol yeah. I like throwing stuff passed people to get their ideas.
    That could have happened but I've been driving on this new engine since December and that's probably around 35 to 40 k for me. It's still possible but far less likely. I'll throw the dmm on and wiggle around and see. I did get decent readings on the connection though. It matched the other 2.

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    Senior Member Rkt Ship's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Top_Fuel View Post
    Well...that's good...at least it sounds like you've got it narrowed down to #1 for sure.

    Do you have a spark tester and a noid light? I would use both on cylinder #1 to verify your #1 injector and coil are actually getting a signal from the ECM.

    How to Use a Noid Light
    I pulled the coil and laid it on the engine with the spark plug plugged in. Then I turned the engine over. It was definitely sparking.

  12. #20
    Senior Member Top_Fuel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rkt Ship View Post
    I pulled the coil and laid it on the engine with the spark plug plugged in. Then I turned the engine over. It was definitely sparking.
    Well...keep in mind that's not the ideal way to tell if you've got good spark on a cylinder. It doesn't take much voltage to jump a plug gap. Something like a spark tester will give you a better idea on what kind of voltage a coil is making. I hope one of my automotive instructors is reading this. I really was paying attention in class...

    When testing for spark it is recommended to use a spark tester. Using a spark plug is a poor test of the ignition system. In free air the spark plug gap poses a very small load to the coil. The spark plug loads the coil when it is in a compressed mixture of air and fuel. The spark tester is either rated for a specific Kv or is adjustable to different Kv. By adjusting the tester to the Kv rating of the coil and then watching the quality of spark the health of the coil can be assessed. The spark should be bright and blue not dim and orange.

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    Here's a good video that demonstrates it on an engine with a misfire...




        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 51.3 mpg (US) ... 21.8 km/L ... 4.6 L/100 km ... 61.6 mpg (Imp)


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