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Thread: HVAC heat blows warm/hot on drivers side, cool/cold passenger side (warranty issue)

  1. #11
    Administrator Daox's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Top_Fuel View Post
    Just a random tip regarding heater core flushing...

    If you can isolate the heater core, drain it and fill it up with a product like CLR. Let it sit overnight...and then flush it. A local shop owner told me he fixes most clogged heater cores with this trick.
    For due diligence I checked CLR's website. Their FAQs section specifically says not to use it on aluminum surfaces. I am a bit hesitant to use it after reading their site. I may still use it as I'm sure it will help clean the heater core better. If you google CLR heater core, tons of stuff comes up.

    http://www.jelmar.com/CLRbasic.htm

    What will CLR do to brass, copper or aluminum?

    CLR can not only remove the finish off of brass, aluminum and copper, but can also pit certain grades of brass, copper and aluminum.


    What surfaces should I not use CLR on?

    DO not use CLR on any natural stone or marble (including cultured marble), terrazzo, colored grout (any other color than white), any painted, coated, sealed or metallic glazed surfaces, plastics, laminates, Formica, Corian, aluminum, galvanized metals, nickel, oil rubbed bronze, brass, copper, steam irons, leaded crystal, refinished tubs or any damaged or cracked surface. CLR may etch older sinks, tubs and tiles. CLR is corrosive. Avoid contact with wood, clothing, wallpaper and carpeting. Some laminated surfaces (counter tops) are coated with a synthetic surface which may be affected by rust removers; clean spills immediately. Always spot test first on an inconspicuous area.



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  3. #12
    Senior Member Top_Fuel's Avatar
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    Wow...that's interesting to know. I'll have to tell that to the guy who gave me the tip.

    I guess if the heater core is so bad that you have to replace it anyway, you don't have anything to lose. Most "flush" chemicals I've used are not nearly aggressive enough.

    I'm also curious how involved a heater core replacement is on a Mirage. Do you know if the dash has to come out?

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    Administrator Daox's Avatar
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    I've never heard of an easy/quick heater core job. I kind of doubt the Mirage is any different.

    According to this thread:

    http://mirageforum.com/forum/showthr...-core-replaced


    It would have been a $955 job. The heater core costs $300 from Mitsu. So, ~5 hours.
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    Interesting, I remember clearly CLR used to advertise use in a steam iron. Now they don't. Probably because modern steam irons from china are mostly plastic.
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    Senior Member Top_Fuel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daox View Post
    I've never heard of an easy/quick heater core job. I kind of doubt the Mirage is any different.
    Just saw this quote from 3dplane regarding heater core removal...

    Yes the entire dash has to come out to get the HVAC case out and then the heater core can slide out to the left.

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    Wouldn't it be nice (and handy) to access the heater core by removing the cabin air filter to do a quick temperature check of both sides?

    Just to see what's going on, that's all. It might save buying a new heat exchanger - though I'm not sure what else would cause these symptoms.
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    Senior Member Top_Fuel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Top_Fuel View Post
    When I get home tonight...I will shoot my heater core tubes with a pyrometer and let you know what the temps are.
    OK...I did this earlier and here's what I found. It was 25 degrees outside, by the way.

    With the car at full operating temperature (190+) and the heat working fine, I pulled into my garage and shut the car off. Within 3 minutes I had the hood open and measured the temperature of both heater core tubes. Both tubes were around 145-150 degrees. I grabbed the hoses and both seemed equally hot. So I think it's safe to say that this is how a "normal" Mirage heater core should behave. Hope that helps.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Daox View Post
    I didn't measure it with a laser thermometer, but I did it with my hand. One was noticeably warmer than the other. The difference was not gigantic, but definitely noticeable.]
    This will be true even if the heater core ISN'T plugged. It sounds like you are getting some heat, so the inlet hose would of course be warmer than the outlet hose. What I would do is turn the heater controls completely off and retry this.

    These cars do not have a coolant control valve for the heater that I know of, like older cars do, which would be between the engine and the heater core. Instead, hot coolant is always flowing through the core and temperature control is done via blend doors.

    With no air being blown through the heater core, no cooling of the coolant flowing through it will happen. Thus, the inlet and outlet hose temperatures should be nearly the same.

    Of course, it is certainly possible that the core is partially plugged. But I would want to make damned sure before I pulled the dash apart or tried to unplug it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Daox View Post
    If you do flush your heater core, perhaps you could route the discharge into a bucket to see what comes out.


    Quote Originally Posted by spork View Post
    It was blowing warm air during the test drive!
    Also, if it blew heat on the test drive as Spork says, why would that change now? Do you think the antifreeze mix if somehow off? Were both driver and passenger sides checked?
    Last edited by Eggman; 12-15-2017 at 08:56 AM.
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  14. #20
    Administrator Daox's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cobrajet View Post
    This will be true even if the heater core ISN'T plugged. It sounds like you are getting some heat, so the inlet hose would of course be warmer than the outlet hose. What I would do is turn the heater controls completely off and retry this.

    These cars do not have a coolant control valve for the heater that I know of, like older cars do, which would be between the engine and the heater core. Instead, hot coolant is always flowing through the core and temperature control is done via blend doors.

    With no air being blown through the heater core, no cooling of the coolant flowing through it will happen. Thus, the inlet and outlet hose temperatures should be nearly the same.

    Of course, it is certainly possible that the core is partially plugged. But I would want to make damned sure before I pulled the dash apart or tried to unplug it.
    I agree with all of what you've said. I'm pretty sure if it is plugged, its partially plugged. It just kind of makes sense with how the heat is coming and how the core is oriented.


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        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Mirage DE 1.2 manual: 40.2 mpg (US) ... 17.1 km/L ... 5.9 L/100 km ... 48.2 mpg (Imp)


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