Oil consumption ?

[sunbeam]

Nope, I think you're thinking of Loren and his engine was damaged when someone over-revved the snot out of it while downshifting into the wrong gear. He replaced it himself and I'm pretty sure Basic now owns that car.

These cars don't have an engine oil temperature sensor. The cvt's have an oil temp sensor, there's a fuel temp sensor and there's a coolant temp sensor. That's it...

Be cautious using some of those obdII devices. Some cause these cars to do really weird things. If your dash lights up like a Christmas tree and you have no throttle response then you're gonna have fun. Potentially more "life-threatening" than using oem parts bought from a discount oem parts distributor. The ultra gauge is one that folks seem to use without issue, I'm sure there are more that work fine too. Some work well, some don't. When they don't it's at random, it could work fine for a week then kill throttle while making a left turn...Fun times!

Fair enough, I will try it out in parking lot first.

Mechanic said to me once that high temp light starts showing the engine has overheated to the point where damage is done.

So the idea is to keep an eye on the temperature especially towing/hot weather/lots of people/stuff in car.

[Grumpy Bear]

https://www.machinerylubrication.com...multigrade-oil

I found the above link absolutely fascinating.

All that build up by both sides of the argument, to miss the obvious conclusion.

Also an admission that the choice, from the OEM perspective, is an actual calculation pitting fuel savings v wear to 150K miles/240K Km.

[7milesout]

sunbeam - I forget what it is you're towing. I tow a bit, just for giggles. Well, to take my murdersickle and atv places. But just for giggles because I have 2 pickup trucks that would be more effective.

Fummins - Was it "mechanic" who was doing the towing? And blew up an engine? I don't recall him blowing an engine, but it has been a while since he has been on here.

Mechanic towed REAL heavy, because he was moving to ... Texas I think it was. From Wisconsin or someplace up that way.

[inuvik]

Mechanic blew up two engines IIRC. He insisted on running 20w50 and ran his Mirage hard. I think the first one got replaced under warranty. Yah, he moved to Texas and went to work for a auto parts store and that's the last we heard from him years ago.

[Fummins]

Fair enough, I will try it out in parking lot first.

Mechanic said to me once that high temp light starts showing the engine has overheated to the point where damage is done.

So the idea is to keep an eye on the temperature especially towing/hot weather/lots of people/stuff in car.

I guess I wasn't very clear, it happens... Some devices work fine all the time and some work fine sometimes then got bat $hit crazy out of the blue. I guess some might not work right from the start? Point being, the ones that I saw cause problems would work fine for a week then go nuts at random cutting out throttle at the worst time. Turned out the people who sold us the devices knew it was an issue with certain Subaru's as well but didn't know about the Mitsubishi issue. Recently I tried a similar device(gps tracker and can monitor things like fuel level and I dont' know what else) and it's worked flawlessly for the last few months in a Mirage.

I've only heard of the overheat light(looks like the green temp light but red) come on one Mirage out here a few years ago. The rad fan piled up on a 2017. Thankfully the driver shut it down right away and was in a parking lot. I drove it back to the shop a few miles without issue, replaced the rad fan and carried on. Now the car has 530k kms. If it had been ignored chances are it would have cooked the engine.

A guy I know that rebuilds wrecks now and then, bought a Mirage that was hit fairly hard in the front. I believe the intake was broken so it couldn't be started at first. Once it was all fixed it wouldn't start. The compression test showed zero compression in all 3 holes. Looked like when it was crashed they just let it run until it overheated and blew a headgasket or warped the head.

[Mark]

The Mirage has two maintenance schedules (3,750 mile OCI & 7,500 mile OCI). 3,750 miles is very close to the 6,000 km OCI Fummins is performing on his Mirage fleet.

Steve's "cheap plasitc car" did extremely well on 5W-30 conventional oil changed every 5,000 miles. Steve's Mirage was at 307,000 miles when he sold it. I never sensed his Mirage burned any oil. He wasn't even concerned about checking it between oil changes. Steve documented his oil changes pretty well. The majority of his 60+ oil changes were done free by a Cadillac dealership, because the owner's Mitsubishi dealership folded. He was most likely given cheap oil filters, too.

If my memory serves me right, Steve had one engine hiccup at one point & a bottle Techron fuel cleaner took care of it. His car did have some transmission issues in the end, but the engine was doing great. Replacing an A/C compressor was another non-engine issue he also had.

Given Steve's & Fummin's experience with these cars, I feel pretty confident about 4,000-5,000 mile OCI for my Mirage. I would not feel comfortable extending that to 7,500 miles for my type of driving. If I was a traveling salesman that traveled hundreds of miles on my Mirage every day, I might lean towards longer oil change intervals.

For example the guy who used his 2007 Nissan Frontier (5-speed manual) as a delivery vehicle was able to get away with 10,000 mile OCI, & he reached 1,000,000 miles without any major engine issue. I don't drive my Mirage in that manner. Thus, I would cut my OCI in half.

Given how Steve racked up the miles, I assume most of his Mirage's mileage was highway driving. Even his type of driving may be different from mine. His climate (Louisiana) is surely different from mine. Compared to Steve's situation, I am willing to spend a bit extra for full synthetic oil and a mid-priced/quality oil filter.

Thus, I feel pretty confident doing 4,000-5,000 mile OCI using a 5W-30 full synthetic oil (I don't get that hung up on the brand) & a mid-grade oil filter (Purolator ONE). During the winter months, 0W-20 full synthetic may be a better choice for my area. Our winter has been quite mild, & I haven't seen the need to switch out my oil for that reason.

I am of the vintage of where I did 3,000 mile OCI with 5W-30 conventional oil for decades. I don't mind extending the OCI mileage some, but I am not going to go overboard on that. It's only 3 quarts of oil in a Mirage, too. I don't see the need to keep old oil in there forever.

I would pick a 5,000 mile OCI (using basic full synthetic oil /oil filter) over someone doing 10,000 mile OCI (using the best grade full synthetic oil on the market & oil filter).

Sadly, I base my OCI on commonsense instead of good oil testing data. Thus, take what I say with a grain of salt.

[Grumpy Bear]

One of the issues I have with Synthetics sold on most shelves is their lack of solvency and with the newer SP standards, lower AW additives. I actually like the lower calcium and more magnesium. Low detergent, low solvency oils invite early ring/piston carbon deposits that WILL eventually interfere with their ability to seal and control oil consumption. These oils I run 3 to 4K miles.

Euro spec oils are Full Synthetic by requirement. PAO/Ester blends. Non-Euro oils are mainly Group III/I blends. Most of the Euro oils are *w40's but there are a growing number of lighter *W30's and *W20 reaching the market. That's a 5K oil all day.

The boutique oils by and large are much like the Euro oils with higher SN/SL/SM additive packages and significantly higher HTHS values. Often one SAE grade higher. One I've used in Hondas over three units totaling about 750K miles of service is Red Line HP 5W20 on 7.5 OCI's in motors of 1.6 to 1.8 liters and 3.5-to-3.75-quart sumps. Not an oil burning one among them If fact the first one was still pumping factory compression checks and under 5% leak down when I sold it at 200K miles.

Valvoline seems to have cracked the 'detergency' puzzle without use of low aniline point base oils like AN or Esters in a new oil currently only sold at Auto Zone. Instead of slowing the rate of deposits, which is what all other detergent do, it actually REMOVES deposits. Like the word detergent implies. And the 5W30 has a pretty hefty 100C viscosity. I'm currently trying in a high mile GM Ecotec 2400 I-4 and first change has already shown it's power to clean.

[Mark]

One of the issues I have with Synthetics sold on most shelves is their lack of solvency and with the newer SP standards, lower AW additives. I actually like the lower calcium and more magnesium. Low detergent, low solvency oils invite early ring/piston carbon deposits that WILL eventually interfere with their ability to seal and control oil consumption. These oils I run 3 to 4K miles.

Euro spec oils are Full Synthetic by requirement. PAO/Ester blends. Non-Euro oils are mainly Group III/I blends. Most of the Euro oils are *w40's but there are a growing number of lighter *W30's and *W20 reaching the market. That's a 5K oil all day.

The boutique oils by and large are much like the Euro oils with higher SN/SL/SM additive packages and significantly higher HTHS values. Often one SAE grade higher. One I've used in Hondas over three units totaling about 750K miles of service is Red Line HP 5W20 on 7.5 OCI's in motors of 1.6 to 1.8 liters and 3.5-to-3.75-quart sumps. Not an oil burning one among them If fact the first one was still pumping factory compression checks and under 5% leak down when I sold it at 200K miles.

Valvoline seems to have cracked the 'detergency' puzzle without use of low aniline point base oils like AN or Esters in a new oil currently only sold at Auto Zone. Instead of slowing the rate of deposits, which is what all other detergent do, it actually REMOVES deposits. Like the word detergent implies. And the 5W30 has a pretty hefty 100C viscosity. I'm currently trying in a high mile GM Ecotec 2400 I-4 and first change has already shown it's power to clean.

Project Farm on YouTube tested most major brands of oil extensively side-by-side. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum gave Amsoil a run for its money in the championship round. In the end, I have reached the same conclusion as the Project Farm guy. After all that extensive testing, he still uses Amazon Basics or Super Tech oil in his vehicles.

I don't live in Europe. I don't buy oil from Europe. It's nice to know Europe has superior oil, but I buy my oil from Walmart. I have zero concerns about what I am using. There are surely more pressing issues in life to be concerned about for me at least.

[Grumpy Bear]

Project Farm on YouTube tested most major brands of oil extensively side-by-side. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum gave Amsoil a run for its money in the championship round. In the end, I have reached the same conclusion as the Project Farm guy. After all that extensive testing, he still uses Amazon Basics or Super Tech oil in his vehicles.

I don't live in Europe. I don't buy oil from Europe. It's nice to know Europe has superior oil, but I buy my oil from Walmart. I have zero concerns about what I am using. There are surely more pressing issues in life to be concerned about for me at least.

It isn't from Europe. It conforms to the standards. Even Mobil 1 has a Euro spec oil. Castrol. HPL, Red Line. Many to choose from. First two you can buy at Walmart.

Project Farm. Hum.... LOL Yea, I've watched some of his videos. Like burning anything that will light for fuel in a Briggs and Straton. Pouring bacon grease in a motor to see how well it runs. Very science oriented.

[Mark]

It isn't from Europe. It conforms to the standards. Even Mobil 1 has a Euro spec oil. Castrol. HPL, Red Line. Many to choose from. First two you can buy at Walmart.

Project Farm. Hum.... LOL Yea, I've watched some of his videos. Like burning anything that will light for fuel in a Briggs and Straton. Pouring bacon grease in a motor to see how well it runs. Very science oriented.

You obviously haven't watched his test of various full synthetic oils, which only proves what? I will be polite here & not say.

I respect honest testing done on various products. His tests were extremely well done. I appreciate everything you share on this forum.

Please share the clip where he poured the bacon grease in a motor. I would love to watch that one!