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Hello!
I was thinking of maybe adding some LED lights and a dashcam to my car using the cigarette lighter, but I already use a phone charger from there.
I understand the socket handles 15 amps, but would it be okay to run all that kit from that one socket?
If anyone has some suggestions or advice, let me know. Thanks!
side note:
Is the USB socket powered? Does anyone use that to run anything?
I remember trying and concluding it wasn't enough for my phone
Your electrical load can be added up to see if it will exceed the circuit's capacity. What devices did you have in mind and what is their current draw? Any links?Quote:
Originally Posted by Spadesheart
The USB specification calls for power at the port. I recall my phone started charging when I plugged it in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spadesheart
I recall another forum member added a USB port to one of the unused switch locations on the center console.
Your electrical load can be added up to see if it will exceed the circuit's capacity. What devices did you have in mind and what is their current draw? Any links?Quote:
Originally Posted by Spadesheart
The USB specification calls for power at the port. I recall my phone started charging when I plugged it in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spadesheart
I recall another forum member added a USB port to one of the unused switch locations on the center console.
I added a separate socket for my dashcam and GPS just so I can keep the original lighter plug for a phone charger and a spotlight charger. That way it is not an issue.
It's pretty easy to do, and there is a thread about it here someplace.
The USB port in the glove compartment powers my dash cam. It allowed for a clean install of the power cable as well. Ran it under the headliner, under the a pillar trim and then into the glove box.
That's actually surprising. I tried again, and it really wasn't able to charge my phone. I guess modern phones are quite power hungry though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Machiblue
It's much less work to use a splitter, at least it seems to me. All of the equipment would be from ebay, sent from china. There are a number of 3 way 120 watt cigarette lighter splitters there from around 4.50 CAD to 8 CAD, and that should handle 10 amps at least. Anything more than 120 watt and the prices sky rocket. Finding one that is cheap and good is a challenge, I've ended up cross referencing the pictures with companies who rebranded the same devices and sold them on amazon and the reviews are often poor, citing sockets that won't hold the plugs in place. Found a very well liked one for 7.89, but still looking for a cheaper one so I can order a few.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggman
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/3-Way-12V-24V...3D252699700913
As for the lights and dashcam, I honestly don't know. You can buy cheap LED lighting from ebay as well for under 10 so that's probably what I'd go for.
Dashcam's you can fund for under 30 CAD on amazon and some liquidation stores here, they just often seem to be of questionable quality. Anyone have a suggestion on a good cheap one?
I just ordered a crappy $4, 3 way socket spliter on ebay. Using it to run my new Vantrue n2 pro 1440p dashcam and a USB fastcharger. I think Vantrue is a must if you want to do uber but even for a normal person it covers your biscuits... yes it's not $30 but you can't go too cheap on some things.
Driving home from work yesterday I almost got into a crash when a guy pulled out into the high speed lane right in front of me I had to slam on the breaks and swerve towards the median to avoid a crash. I got the whole thing on camera. If that was a crash it 5000% paid for itself right there.
I wouldn't worry at all. My 500 LED xmas tree (LED) draws less than .1A @120v which is 1A@12v. The dashcams I've seen all require 5-6 watts @12v, so in effect, nothing. Now if you want to run portable peltier based coolers, those are demanding. Mine draws 12A and heats the Mirage socket when I use it.
Here is the 3 way splitter I got. Turns out it was only $2. It fits nice into that little random cubby behind the cup holders. It is good those things draw almost no power because it looks like that little wire would catch fire if I plugged a fridge into the third outlet :rolleyes:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-WAY-MULTI...V/223541355972
https://i.imgur.com/kANOX5N.jpg
Yep, those are probably 22ga. wires. Plug in a frig or 3 and you're front and center at a bonfire.
I slot such adapter in the middle near the leg room, much neater. All my cables will run into there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mirageman38
I picked up a little two way Y splitter at harbor freight for 4.00 and ran my Garmin and my kids dual screen(10") DVD players off of the plug no issues during a 600mi round trip drive.
Watts = Amps X VoltsQuote:
Originally Posted by Spadesheart
For example a car cigarette lighter fuse has 15 Amps and most cars uses a 12V system, you take 15 and multiply it by 12 and you get 180 Watts which is your safety zone. Mar 13, 2016
I haven't check the fuse (amps) on a Mirage, but this would be the logical way to answer your question.
My Mirage is 10amp. I know because my Ham Radio blows it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark
I powered an ARB fridge-freezer off our our 12V socket without any issues.
Attachment 15599
My unit looks about the same size. Very nice to travel with. Since the Mirage can go many hours without a fuel stop having refreshments is handy. Then there's the problem of needing to wizz, which I have solved without needing a catheter.Quote:
Originally Posted by Subcompact Culture
Diapers?Quote:
Originally Posted by Wallythacker
piss jugsQuote:
Originally Posted by Fummins
If the Mirage has a 10 amp fuse for the 12V socket, running something up to 120W should be safe.Quote:
Originally Posted by Subcompact Culture
I took this from a customer review of the ARB fridge-freezer -
"The ARB requires 80-90 watts for startup power then the power consumption settles into the 55 watt range."
Not sure how accurate those numbers are, but they are well below 120W.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spadesheart
I wanted additional outlets, so i ran a fused jumper wire from the main fusebox and put an additional cigarette lighter behind the glove box and ran a wire up and out from behing the top of the radio panel and use that to keep my Cellphone dash cam running. Also, If I need it, there's a second open usb on that 2nd cigarette lighter adapter.
I don't like to have a dash cam fitted to a USB port. Firstly, to me, it looks untidy, then you have to take it all down when you park up. I've had mine hard wired in, no wires to be seen. I just use the USB for my phone.
I downloaded a number to CDs that I still like to listen to a 32 GB USB flash drive, & I just leave the flash drive plugged into my USB port in my Mirage. Nice for my longer trips!Quote:
Originally Posted by itschad
Ditto Mark but my USB drive is plugged into the dongle that's in the glovebox.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark
My flash drive is my glove box, because I have a 2017 Mirage, too. Just sharing how I like using my USB feature. I'm not very high tech usually, & this doesn't change that! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by itschad
Thank you for this info. It's nice to know the upper limit, even if it is not the official limit. I read somewhere that the USB port powers a maximum of 40watt somewhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels
I have been looking into a tire air compressor- one that uses as few amps as possible because time is not of the essence. I found a cheap compressor that advertised 300 PSI, but it broke on me after 2 uses. It said it used 5amps on a 12v.
I would like to use less than 5amps. Some compressors use 10-15amps max- and these are designed for cars and trucks but I do not think the Mirage battery is designed for 15amps. So I am in no hurry to pump a tire in 2-3 minutes. I will wait happily 20 minutes if I have to, as long as the compressor won't break from the pressure of air escaping the tire.
Does anyone know of any super low amperage/wattage compressors that work on your 12v? I am looking at the $20 range- One that is durable but also not overpowered- at least one that has a "slow pump" option (i.e. fewer amps). Also, some are labeled "emergency use." I want one that I can check once a month between oil changes, so I do not want it to be for emergency use ony, since I think it is less likely to be designed for durability.
Edit: I found a list of several pumps: https://www.freeairpump.com/best-por...r-compressors/ worth a read also because it has a free air location search.
Why not a floor (bike) pump? No amp problems and fits your slow pump criteria.Quote:
Originally Posted by highwire
I agree with you 100%. I just spent hours searching for a powered pump and haven't found one as reliable and inexpensive as a bike pump that I've used for bikes for over 20 years. I will probably go for one as a backup or primary guage.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggman
I got a high volume floor pump and find it works fine. It helps that the Mirage tires don't have a big volume to fill up haha. Don't see it wearing out any time soon, it includes a gauge, never runs out of battery or blows fuses - simple & reliable.
I, too, use a floor style bicycle pump. The gauge is crap, but those pen style gauges don't take up much space or weight...
Anyone have any experience with water boilers that hook into the cigarette lighter? I was thinking I might get one for camping, or emergencies in the winter as I have had to sleep in the car before. They're pretty cheap on aliexpress, like 15 CAD for an insulated mug that boils water, or 4 CAD for what appears to just be a loose heating coil you could put in a cup. They confusingly seem to come in 24 V configurations along with the 12 V, which would be quite the draw. Found that kind of confusing.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...archweb201603_
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001...archweb201603_
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spadesheart
I'd steer clear of the exposed heating element one for safety reasons. The element would have to get very hot to heat the water and with the coils exposed like that just think you're driving along and you have in your metal cup heating the water and you hit a big bump or emergency maneuver that element could pop right out and start a fire, melt just about anything plastic (which is basically the entire interior of the Mirage) or burn the heck out of you or a passenger.
Most semi-trucks are 24v systems. The appliance can switch between one voltage or another. As long as you're not drawing more than 10 amps (120 watts) you should be fine.
I mean with how cheap these all are, I was probably going to regardless, that being said, I wouldn't be comfortable using something like this unless I was at a full stop. It would likely be used to noodles or coffee, which kind of can't be made well on the go.Quote:
Originally Posted by inuvik
For anyone buying something like this, don't use any form unless you're at a full stop.