First real problem with my Mirage... (Engine losing power suddenly. Update- solved)

Last week I was headed out on a delivery as I normally do. Went to shift from third to fourth at about 35 mph, and suddenly I had no throttle. Just...none.

The gas pedal felt fine. It didn't feel like anything had physically broken. The engine did not sputter or act like it was going to die. No matter what I did with the pedal, the engine simply would not rev. Actually, it felt like the car was engine-braking.

I could plant the gas pedal to the floor, the rpms wouldn't change, and the ECO light would even stay on. If I depressed the clutch with the gas pedal floored, the engine would rev to about 3,000 rpm instead of quickly taching out to redline.

Soon after this, everything went back to normal. No CEL. For the rest of the week it was fine.

But it happened again last night...only two or three times instead of just once. My theory is the accelerator sensor is going bad. The car isn't revving because the sensor isn't telling it to rev, and the ETACS system isn't sensing a problem with the sensor such as a open circuit.

Anyone else ever had this happen?? Gonna get a replacement accelerator pedal sensor (actually the complete pedal assembly), swap it out, and see if that cures it. From what research I have done, the sensors are the same for '14-up and for both manual and CVT cars. Part number is 1600A093. I could not find in the FSM any indication that this part needs to be 'married' or 'coded' to the car using an MUT-III. Should be plug-and-play.

I will keep you guys posted.

Try a bottle of Techron first?

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Originally Posted by Eggman

Try a bottle of Techron first?

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The car doesn't cough, sputter, or misfire like it isn't getting fuel. It acts as though I am simply not pressing the pedal. When I take my foot off of the gas pedal with the clutch pedal engaged the engine settles into a perfectly normal idle. It doesn't miss a beat other than the engine not doing what the pedal input is telling it to do.

I can stomp and release the pedal as much as I want and the car just acts like I am doing nothing. Then it goes back to normal. I even thought that perhaps the motor on the throttle butterfly might be the problem, but were that the case I suspect I would get a code since the ETACS would assume either the pedal sensor or throttle position sensor was out of range?

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Originally Posted by Cobrajet

The car doesn't cough, sputter, or misfire like it isn't getting fuel. It acts as though I am simply not pressing the pedal. When I take my foot off of the gas pedal with the clutch pedal engaged the engine settles into a perfectly normal idle. It doesn't miss a beat other than the engine not doing what the pedal input is telling it to do.

I can stomp and release the pedal as much as I want and the car just acts like I am doing nothing. Then it goes back to normal. I even thought that perhaps the motor on the throttle butterfly might be the problem, but were that the case I suspect I would get a code since the ETACS would assume either the pedal sensor or throttle position sensor was out of range?

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It’s easy to monitor pedal and throttle position using your OBD-II port. Check their operation first before ordering parts.

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Originally Posted by Eggman

It’s easy to check your pedal and throttle position using your OBD-II port. Check their operation first before ordering parts.

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It seems to be a very intermittent problem, but checking can't hurt. The FSM even says a problem with this sensor is likely to be intermittent. How is checking done? I'd be getting a replacement pedal travel sensor locally for about $30 out of a 2017 with around 30k.

No way I would throw parts at this problem if they were new parts.

Other ideas? Fuel pressure regulator?

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Originally Posted by Cobrajet

It seems to be a very intermittent problem, but checking can't hurt. The FSM even says a problem with this sensor is likely to be intermittent. How is checking done?

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I’m using the OBDLink LX. It can be configured to record parameters of your choosing. With this you can capture data without distraction while driving. OBDLink has come out with a new adapter that has more functionality that I’m thinking of getting.

Stupid question, have you scanned for codes. Like with a scan tool?

I had a similarish problem with an 18 nv200. Dead pedal while driving down the highway. No cel. It did it totally randomly. Did it once one day. Driver pulled over, turned it off, restarted it and carried on the rest of the day without problems. Slowly it started acting up more and more. I scanned it and there was a code for the throttle sensor in the throttle body. Took it to the dealer, they replaced the throttle body, on my way back from picking it up it acted up again so I took it back again. This time they replaced a throttle control module. Van was fine for an entire year almost to the day....Then the exact same problem came back. Van was off warranty by now but they offered to take a look anyways. They couldn't figure it out and ended up replacing the entire engine harness. It's been good for about a year again so far..

Just grasping @ straws here, but what are the chances there is an issue with the brake light switch causing the brake lights to come on randomly? I think these cars return to idle to prevent "unintended acceleration" if you press the brake pedal. Just thinking, my one time this week :)

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Originally Posted by klroger

Just grasping @ straws here, but what are the chances there is an issue with the brake light switch causing the brake lights to come on randomly? I think these cars return to idle to prevent "unintended acceleration" if you press the brake pedal. Just thinking, my one time this week :)

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Absolutely, I tried this out. Drove with my foot on the throttle and brake at the same time, after a few seconds the car will kill the throttle.

I had a car that the brake lights would turn on randomly dimly with the key, I think that may have been the first time I had a problem with the kick panel connector. Dealer changed the brake switch, when I picked it up the brake lights were on. They "adjusted it" kicked it out the door. Problem persisted, they claimed it needed an etacs module. Problem was some corrosion on the connector that they inspected, the one they had a recall for years before.

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Originally Posted by Fummins

Absolutely, I tried this out. Drove with my foot on the throttle and brake at the same time, after a few seconds the car will kill the throttle.

I had a car that the brake lights would turn on randomly dimly with the key, I think that may have been the first time I had a problem with the kick panel connector. Dealer changed the brake switch, when I picked it up the brake lights were on. They "adjusted it" kicked it out the door. Problem persisted, they claimed it needed an etacs module. Problem was some corrosion on the connector that they inspected, the one they had a recall for years before.

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Fascinating suggestion, guys! I don't have a brake light out (or brake lights that stay on), but I discovered that I DO have a taillight out. Hmmmm...

Checked for stored DTCs and found...zip, zilch, nada.

It didn't act up today, but I am definitely going to change that taillight bulb before doing anything else.