Not sure if I should fix this or just leave it off the car.

So the rattle in my snorkel/resonator is not from where it meets the air filter housing BUT seems to be where the upper half of the snorkel inlet meets the lower half. I can rock the two halves and see movement and hear a clicking at the circled area. The two halves appear to have been clipped together and then fused together with heat at a few tabs along the length of the snorkel. The resonator is made in a similar fashion but solid.

I could just leave the entire unit off the car. It is nice and quiet. We have a few road trips planned so I was concerned about MPG.
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I am seriously debating drilling out the "weld" points and using a special adhesive for low surface energy plastics (polypropelene) to glue the halves together. I may then use plastic rivets at the "weld" points for added rigidity.

I wonder if you could get that replaced under warranty? It seems to happen eventually. You could try some small zip ties or haywire the 2 halves together or just take it off. I might take mine off. I don't imagine there'd be a fuel economy loss, you'll probably have some intake noise though. It's off already, I'd just giver.

The wife and I were driving it last night to get some Turtle Cheesecake custard at a placa called Shivers last night. And yes it was delicious. There was occasionally a deeper intake sound similar to what we get in her Grand Cherokee with the K&N cold air kit. It seemed mostly at low rpm with moderate throttle when I should have down shifted but didn't.

MPG wise you wont notice a difference, However having driven with the snorkel off on my CVT model, That intake noise gets VERY annoying on the highway at around 70mph as it holds the rpm/throttle position just right that the intake noise/pulse actually resonates through the entire car, Also any time you have cruise set the deep "Woahhhhhh" when it opens the throttle to maintain speed also gets very annoying. Not recommended lol

your repair plan sounds "solid". haha. no, but seriously I'm here all week., bada bum!

If it's a derivative of ABS, which I suspect it is, perhaps CF reinforced nylon as it's in a high heat area you might be able to have it sonically welded. Look up plastic specialists in your area.

I remember reversing the lid on my circular air filter container on my 70's V8s to get that low throaty intake sound. Bad idea really as we just sucked in more hot air from the engine compartment probably dropping a few hp off in the process. The only thing that really worked was intaking cold air via scoops (Ford/Mopar) or low pressure cowl induction (GM) that stuff worked.

Christopher - One of the first things I did to the Blueberry after readying about said intake noises, was I took a black zip-tie and tied the leading part (just after the opening flair) and tied it down to the engine. Not a lot of pressure, but enough to stop it from vibrating up/down. I would imagine doing that to yours would eliminate the vibration and noise. I'm hoping mine never starts making noise. So far, so good.

What would that cost you? Maybe $0.07 for a zip tie? In my case, I used a standard black tie-down and it is barely noticeable.

I actually screwed a cable bracket to the size of this and had it zip tied to the fuel rail. You can just see it in the first picture but I suspect one mght have to know what they are looking for. it is on the snorkel in the picture but now i have removed it.
I also had a zip tie around the two halves. From what I have read most seem to have vibration where the snorkel/resonator assy attaches to the air box. My car actually seemed to get better mpg without the assembly but that might change in the summer when the underhood temps are at their highest.
The noise without it wasn't very bad at all. Mostly noticeable at more than half throttle.
After splitting the snorkel and doing some work it seems corrected.
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After drilling 7/32" holes in the "spot welded" areas I split the snorkel.
Then cleaned with dishsoap and wax/grease remover.
Adhesion promotor directions called for 36 grit to rough the mating surfaces but all I had was 50 so used that.
After spraying with the adhesion promotor and letting it dry for 10 minutes I applied the SEM plastic repair adhesive.
Then i used plastic rivets in the holes and clamped everything down.
The SEM was past its shelf life and came out difficult very tacky.
After curing overnight everything seems strongly bonded.

I am by no means an expert in plastic repair. In reality a sensor safe rtv silicone may have filled the gap enough to cease vibrations just as well and probably much cheaper.

"They" say, warm air gives better mpg / lower power. But I think the air would have to be much warmer & consistent to be able to document higher mpg. However, since we get great mpg as it is, but do not have an abundance of power, I'll stick with cooler air.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 7milesout

"They" say, warm air gives better mpg / lower power. But I think the air would have to be much warmer & consistent to be able to document higher mpg. However, since we get great mpg as it is, but do not have an abundance of power, I'll stick with cooler air.

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I have a few hundred mile round trip coming up. Perhaps I'll run it without one way and back the next. I'll also check ambient temps if i try the experiment.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Christopher_B

I have a few hundred mile round trip coming up. Perhaps I'll run it without one way and back the next. I'll also check ambient temps if i try the experiment.

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I love a good experiment. If you do it, I hope you post it up.