Are you saying the car runs synthetic all the time but on one occasion you simply used conventional?Quote:
Originally Posted by Spadesheart
How that relates to mpg I'm not sure but unless you're running a synthetic "blend" oil, the change to conventional can have significant ill effect like clotting/gelling which can plug filters and passages. Could it be that you're still seeing these effects in your fuel economy?
seems to correlate well with my experience - dino bad - synth gudQuote:
Originally Posted by IchabodCrane
In very cold weather and without a substantial grill block, the excessive cold air blowing into the motor compartment cools the engine a lot. On top of that with the driver feeling the cold, the indoor heat gets turned up and consequently cools the poor engine even more. Cold engines guzzle gas! For saving fuel, engines needs to reach operating temperature asap. Just like the engine, you would freeze too if you stood outside naked in a winter storm!
Here is what I do with every car in my garage:
When it gets down to the feezing point, I block at least 90% of the grill, and keep it that way until the flowers come up following year.
In summer the grill is blocked 50% at all times, resulting in zero problems and the fan comes on only very seldom in a traffic jam.
On top of that the temp sensor eco mod helps even further.
See: http://mirageforum.com/forum/showthr...ment-when-cold
As far as oil is concerned, make sure it is rated ILSAC GF-4 or GF5 See the Instruction handbook!
I don't know how to go about it but you may need to flush out the oil in your engine so you can start clean again.
Hopefully someone here knows a good way to do that..
Anyone?
As far as oil is concerned, make sure it is rated ILSAC GF-4 or GF5
See the FSM or the Instruction handbook that was placed in the glove box!
If you want to flush it out, it should be sufficient to do a regular oil and filter change.
Spadesheart - any update on your fuel consumption?
Fuel consumption is still poor even though now the weather is good, but I think I have a lead on what the issue is. I've had, on two occasions the engine crank but not turn on unless I gave it a bit of gas. This happened once in the winter, so I just assumed it was cold or something, but it happened again two days ago. I'm under the impression that the airflow might be gunked up, or if there is an air control valve, it might be faulty. This might also explain why low speed driving still has decent economy, but high speed has really suffered. I'm going to give my guy a call to see if i can see him tomorrow.Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG
The engine sometimes pumps revs on its own too, leading me to believe its labouring sometimes
Have your guy do a compression test.
A few members have had hard or non-starting issues that turned out to be warranty engine replacements.
should i just go to mitsubishi?Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG
Which is more convenient? That's how I'd decide.
Also: if you have (or can borrow) a compression tester, it's not hard to do yourself.