2nd retaining nut on trailer ball shank

My new convert-a-ball shank has a cross drilled hole for a cotter pin, but the hole is on the extreme end of the shank. If I used a cotter pin there and the main nut backed off the ball would have a ton of travel up and down in the receiver bar. The threads on the ball shank would likely get mangled and IDK if a cheesy little cotter pin is up to the forces of holding the shank in place.

Has anyone used a 2nd nut on the ball shank as a spacer to remove all that potential play if the main nut worked loose? As you can see if I used a 2nd nut there's very little play to the cotter pin. If I go this route do I still need the lock washer? DO I move the lock washer to the bottom of the 2nd nut? Do I add a 2nd lock washer ? Ugh.

I think the right answer is the pic with the lock washer between the nuts. Comments?

Attachment 24599Attachment 24600Attachment 24601

I don't remember having a ball shank with a cotter pin hole, and I have a handful of them mounted on things.

Some drawbars are thicker than others, & thus the extra shank length.

I would put the lock washer on first & tighten the first nut as tight as possible. You can add a second nut for insurance & the cotter pin, too. I wouldn't over think things beyond that.

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Originally Posted by Mark

I don't remember having a ball shank with a cotter pin hole, and I have a handful of them mounted on things.

Some drawbars are thicker than others, & thus the extra shank length.

I would put the lock washer on first & tighten the first nut as tight as possible. You can add a second nut for insurance & the cotter pin, too. I wouldn't over think things beyond that.

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This is the first shank I've ever had with the cotter pin hole. I've likely had a dozen trailer balls over the years and none with cotter pin holes prior.

I think as suggested I'll keep it simple and use the 2nd nut as a jam nut only and throw a cotter pin in as well.

ETA: This is something to use a torque wrench on. 180 ft. ib. is pretty hefty and even with an 18" extension bar you need 120 lb. of pull which is harder to judge when operating in the horizontal mode. I only need 90 lb. of pull using my 24" gray wrench.

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Originally Posted by Wallythacker

This is the first shank I've ever had with the cotter pin hole. I've likely had a dozen trailer balls over the years and none with cotter pin holes prior.

I think as suggested I'll keep it simple and use the 2nd nut as a jam nut only and throw a cotter pin in as well.

ETA: This is something to use a torque wrench on. 180 ft. ib. is pretty hefty and even with an 18" extension bar you need 120 lb. of pull which is harder to judge when operating in the horizontal mode. I only need 90 lb. of pull using my 24" gray wrench.

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It should surely be so tight with one nut that it doesn't ever come loose. Besides you bought this style ball for that very reason. You can change ball sizes without having to remove one to put on another.

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Originally Posted by Mark

It should surely be so tight with one nut that it doesn't ever come loose. Besides you bought this style ball for that very reason. You can change ball sizes without having to remove one to put on another.

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If I thought the drawbar or shank would never get damaged I'd tig weld the shank to the drawbar. But knowing my luck the day I did that some bizarre fluke disaster would destroy it. I'll be happy with the double locknut and washer cotter pin.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Wallythacker

If I thought the drawbar or shank would never get damaged I'd tig weld the shank to the drawbar. But knowing my luck the day I did that some bizarre fluke disaster would destroy it. I'll be happy with the double locknut and washer cotter pin.

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The largest loads I have hauled weren't done with a ball hitch. Our farm pickup trucks were tugging wagon loads of hay, chopper box loads of corn silage, and gravity box loads of corn or oats. You slip a single pin into the wagon tongue, & you would be on your way. My dad had heavy duty spring loaded bumpers on our trucks back then. Those old RWD farm trucks worked hard. I didn't know anyone who owned a 4WD truck back then. Now I don't know anyone who owns just a RWD truck. Times have changed!

Maybe you should install a heavy duty Ag hitch (see below) on your Mirage? :)

https://schulinghitch.com/cushioned-ag-hitches/

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mark

The largest loads I have hauled weren't done with a ball hitch. Our farm pickup trucks were tugging wagon loads of hay, chopper box loads of corn silage, and gravity box loads of corn or oats. You slip a single pin into the wagon tongue, & you would be on your way. My dad had heavy duty spring loaded bumpers on our trucks back then. Those old RWD farm trucks worked hard. I didn't know anyone who owned a 4WD truck back then. Now I don't know anyone who owns just a RWD truck. Times have changed!

Maybe you should install a heavy duty Ag hitch (see below) on your Mirage? :)

https://schulinghitch.com/cushioned-ag-hitches/

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Then I would need front wheel weights to keep the car on the ground! thanks, but I'll pass.