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Anyone on this forum had premature brake pad wear The reason is just had to call the breakdown services
as my brakes were making a Grinding noise they come out and had a look and said O/S/F and N/S/F
were on the Metal Suspected Calliper or the auto hold not releasing Advise not to drive and book into Garage:mad-new::nightmare::nightmare: car as only done 11000 miles
Yikes, that’s not normal. What is your driving style?
My 17 did this since around 1000 miles. I checked it and it has to do with the pad material. Its hard and the discs are soft. I am at 35k and mine are still ok for now. I do notice some noise but it has to do a lot in my case with hill start!
Normal driving no hard brakingQuote:
Originally Posted by inuvik
i drive as anyone else would. Keeps to speed limit
found this
https://www.carcomplaints.com/Mitsub...ake_wear.shtml
@ Adam - UK:
You are right the brakes don't have much material, but they are very easy and simple to replace! An easy DIY job, should take about 30 mins total. In Europe the pads and discs are also really cheap, see below. They are cheap because the same parts are standard on many common Daihatsu models.
Pads:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Bremsbelagsat...8AAOSwARZXllvr Price €20.97 (about 25 Quid)
Pads:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Textar-Brems...gAAOSw1MZZkneg Price: €28.20
Discs:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/2-PKW-ERSATZT...wAAOSwO9JaMxxT Price: €62.90
Set of Discs including pads, being everything needed:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/ORIGINAL-ATE...4AAOSwLmZZrJR7 Price is €77.90 (68 Quid) and made by one of the biggest and most reputed makers.
Since a couple of years or so, these cars come with bigger discs albeit the same size pads. The rear drums and linings are a bit bigger on the newer cars. Therefore do check before ordering, that they for your year car and consequently the right size. The links above are just as an example, all of them deliver to the UK. A set of discs commonly withstands wearing through three sets of pads before needing replacement.
Had new brake pads fitted by the Mitsubishi dealer on Saturday did not have to pay;)
Car brakes was checked by dealer and everything was ok car is due a service in june and they will have look again
I did notice on a car in the showroom that the brake pads don't have much material on them:confused:
car back to normal now will keep a eye on them:excitement::cheerful:
That's great news - glad this is fixed.
You'll have to let us know how your June service appointment goes.
Glad you got it fixed up!
Yes, please keep us posted.
Got my 2nd service on the 12th June
will let everyone know how my brake pads are going ;) after the car is serviced
Up Date
Had 2nd service everything is ok with the Car
Thanks for the update Adam.
I'm having this problem myself... problem is I can't really tell what the sound is or where it's coming from. It happens when I brake, but only when I brake with fair force. I'm not slamming the brakes, but when gliding to a stop, I don't hear it, at least until the very end when the car actually stops. It sounds like nails on a chalkboard or a tea kettle whistling. I just hit 30k, but on my last inspection at around 25k, they said they looked fine. Any thoughts before I take it to a garage?
Edit: I should say I'm in a 2015 Mirage DE.
That sounds like your pad wear indicator. Have you checked your brake pads?Quote:
Originally Posted by ganzfeld
Like eggman said, could be wear indicators rubbing? They seem to scrape a little earlier than I think they should. If you can't figure it out pull the wheel, pull the brake pads and look at the wear indicator. If the tip is shiny it's scraping.Quote:
Originally Posted by ganzfeld
Or it could be the rear brakes as well. It's pretty common for them to make noise. I've had to blow the dust out and apply brake lube where the shoes rub on the backing plates on a handful of cars because of noise when braking. I only changed one set of shoes and drums. That was at 381xxxkms(236xxxmiles). Only changed them because they were just grooved so bady and I couldn't get the screeching to go away while braking with any effort. Sucks cause there was still lots of meat on the shoes still.
Well, it has to be the rear brakes now I think. I stuck my head out the window and braked a few times, and the sound is 100% coming from the rear. I also figured it couldn't be the front brake pads really, as the sound does NOT occur when gently or even moderately braking and coming to a stop. It's only when suddenly braking (I don't slam, trust me) or, towards the end, when coming to a full stop, do I hear it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fummins
Is there a visual check I can do on the rear brakes, or should I go ahead and haul it in to the dealership? I guess I just want to make sure it's nothing that indicates major damage.
I had this issue this past spring and now again in the fall. I just bought my used 2015 Mitsubishi Mirage with 9k miles on it in November 2017. By May 2018, I heard a grinding noise. There was no squeal of the metal that is used to indicate low brake pad wear.
While the brakes were grinding, I still had work, school, mom-stuff to do and as a single parent, didn't have extra money or time to fix them. I had to let them go about a week like that. (I know that's horrible). Finally, I bought brake pads and rotors and replaced the front brakes. Drivers side was fine, even had a decent amount of pad left. Passenger side was horrible. There was no brake pad at all so I believe it came loose and fell out? (Which also explains no squeal at all) The reason for the grinding was because the caliper piston was digging into the rotor at that point.
So I replaced everything and it was fine, but I was bothered that the brake pad would just fall out. Also that it would be so extreme that the piston was digging into the rotor.
I couldn't replace the caliper piston due to funds.
-------------
Fast forward to yesterday: My brakes started making the grinding noise. No squeal, nothing. Just that grinding like a train stopping.
The brakes seemed stuck and didn't want to release so even going forward they were grinding.
I tried to tap the brakes to get them to unstick, and the brakes WENT OUT COMPLETELY. I pumped the brakes to get them to work. They finally regained pressure. I then slowly and safely made it home with kids in the car :(
Parked car in garage and arranged ride to work / school for kids.
Today I'm looking into getting all new parts for caliper, rotor, and brake pads once again. I thought it best to check the forum because this seems a bit excessive to have happen twice in a 5 month period (or even at all). I checked the brake pads when I bought them and they are ceramic and said are supposed to last quite a while.
Wow...I've seen a lot of strange brake issues before...but having the entire pad somehow disappear from the car? That's a new one! :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by jaimeee
Your pads weren't your problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by jaimeee
You have a sticky caliper, which isn't a very common problem (in Florida... probably more so on a 3-year old car in the rust belt)... but, it is a problem. It was sticking bad enough that it ate completely through one OE brake pad long before the rest were worn. You didn't fix that problem. It's not going to fix itself.
You shouldn't be surprised that the symptom (worn out brake pad) repeated itself. You didn't fix the problem.
Glad to hear that you're addressing the problem!
Is it possible to replace the pads and not notice a sticking caliper?
If you don't know what to look for...it's possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggman
When replacing brake pads, take a good look at your old pads to make sure they have been wearing evenly. If the caliper piston is stuck or the caliper slides are not free to move back and forth, you're going to see one pad with much less friction material on it than the other. That's a big red flag that something needs to be corrected.
If you don't understand why your pads aren't wearing evenly and you just put replacement pads on, then your new pads are likely going to continue wearing out in a similar way...like Loren pointed out.
This page has some diagrams of pad wear and possible causes: Uneven Brake Pad Wear
Doesn't the caliper need to be removed in order to replace the pads? I figure that would be where a sticky caliper would become real obvious.
Hi there, I've installed new brake pads (Bosch 0 986 494 878) and rotors (Blue Print ADC443132) and I've only ran about 500 km until now. I guess that is still bedding in. The strange thing is that with the old set I start hearing a grinding (strong low frequency) noise after more intense braking, especially downhill. However I hear it again sometimes when the brakes get hotter (but I didn't find an exact pattern). I've already checked everything and I do not see anything wrong. Here is the work that I made:
https://youtu.be/8WOCEClUaGc?feature=shared
Things that I checked:
- I am able to see both brake caliper pistons going back and forth, I record it on camera.
- I already checked if the wheels were being locked (after press/depress the brakes) and all looks fine and rolling well.
- I've replaced the brake piston dust boots and I noticed a minor rust dust on one of the pistons, but I've cleaned it easily. (https://mirageforum.com/forum/showth...l=1#post159507)
- I do not feel any drag on the wheels.
Questions:
- Is it normal after 3.5km downhill (2nd gear and AC on, doing a careful drive) to have some "smoke" and smell when its new brakes?
- Could the “low frequency” grinding noise be normal somehow because of the bedding process?
- On these cars the inner pads keep lightly in touch with the rotors (I do not see any mechanism to make it stop touching the rotor, the inner pad clips are flat)?
- Should I make a especially test with the brakes very hot?
- Should I just ignore this and keep driving more to see if the bedding could solve the strange noise?
I would really appreciate it if someone could give me some tips regarding this. Thanks in advance.
I just skimmed through your video quickly...
No, it's not normal for your brakes to smoke and stink, but I've never used bosch pads so...
Did you replace the clips where the pads ride?
If not, did you:
-remove the old clips and clean them up
-clean the rust from the caliper bracket
-clean the old grease from the slide pin holes(it's easier by just removing the bracket from the car)
-make sure pins travel freely all the into the bracket(no trapped old grease got pushed inside the holes)
-make sure inner pad moves freely
-put a little dab of brake lube on both sides of the clip where the inner pad rides
The backing plates get bent easily when the wheel is off and you spin the spindle side to side. It can scrape on the backside of the rotor.
Thanks Fummins. I didn't replace the old clips but I've cleaned them and put some brake lube on it. This is an actual pic from that:Quote:
Originally Posted by Fummins
Attachment 26647
Now regarding this "-make sure inner pad moves freely", to be honest it slides but is is not so freely that can fall easily, maybe I will end up trying to buy new clips and replace it. On the 2:40 you can see how that slides:
https://youtu.be/8WOCEClUaGc?t=160
Regarding the sliding pins I've cleaned it too (I tried to remove all the old grease by inserting the sliding pins, cleaning again the pin and repeat this until I see no significant grease coming out) and then I put new silicone grease on it (without put too much). I also tested the sliding pins movement and it looks to slide freely.
Regarding the smell and "smoke" it happens just one time (but for me it looks strange). This is kind frustrating as I try to follow all the best practices that I found on internet :confused:
Sometimes rust can build up under the clips(where the pad rides) and needs a light filing. Your car looks really clean though.Quote:
Originally Posted by edPower
Make sure there's no grease suck in the end of the bracket, can use a pick or even wire to clean it out and make sure nothing is trapped/shoved inside. Brakes can be a pita when they make noise after replacing them. I've had that happen a few times and often slapping a little lube under the clips sometimes shuts them up.
On second thought, are you sure the noise you're hearing is coming from the front? I often hear complaints of brake noise when coming to a relatively hard stop, mostly after the car has slowed down and is almost at a stop. Most think it's the front but often it's the rear brakes are grooved. But that's usually more common on the older models with the smaller drums and ratchet style adjuster.
I will try to understand if the noise is from rear brakes, I never checked it and on the front this is the 3rd set of pads. The noise is really the same, it will be strange to have the exact same noise on front after changed rotors and pads.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fummins
Something that I noticed is that the OEM inner pad had a back plate on it but this one doesn't. Should I apply brake grease where the piston contacts the pad? The previous pads also didn't have it and I never heared brake noises during years.
I also replaced the brake fluid some time before, but I think there is no air on the system. The pedal is feeling really good. But I used the one person bleed method. Can this relates some how with this noise if for some reason have air on one of the lines (or rear lines)?
When I put new rotors and pads on any of my cars, the first drive I put them through a "burnishing" process. And yes, they smoke during that process. Sometimes they smoke heavily. I can smell it and if I aim my outside mirrors down at the rear wheels, I can see smoke during this process. I have noticed that the life and performance of the brakes that have been through a burnishing both seem very good.