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Thread: '14 Mirage DE Idle Fluctuation–Fuel Delivery Issue?

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    Quote Originally Posted by CROSSBOLT View Post
    What's the problem here? Tach needle stuck on 1000 rpm? The only significant noise I hear is when you move around. Should not idle that long. Bad for you. Drive it like you hate it 'til it breaks sumptin' the fix that. Next...
    Engine rpm slightly up and down when idle. It's getting worse when in D or R, with AC running, without pressing the throttle...in normal condition the car will move slowly, but in this case it'll move slowly at first then sometimes the rpm jump so the car accelerating by its own.



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    Thank you all for your input. I will add another fuel treatment and clean out the throttle body. Fingers crossed it helps my issue!

    Because of the mystery no-start issue I mentioned, I suspected a fuel pump as the culprit behind all my issues. I've read that the fuel filter is built into the pump assembly, correct? Am I looking at a clogged filter or something more serious like a failing pump?

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    Senior Member Dirk Diggler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FreeYourSOUL View Post
    Same problem here, it's my Mitsubishi Xpander. Throttle body and sparks plug are clean, updated the ECU's firmware, recalled the fuel pump but no result.
    It's noticeable from exhaust sound and tachometer.
    Post more pics of your Xpander please! Here in America we get NONE of the cool Mitsubishi vehicles Indo-China does, no Pajero, no Delica diesel offroad minivan, no Grand Lancer, no Colt, no Xpander, but we might be getting the Triton next year.

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    Senior Member Fummins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bennett15ify View Post
    Thank you all for your input. I will add another fuel treatment and clean out the throttle body. Fingers crossed it helps my issue!

    Because of the mystery no-start issue I mentioned, I suspected a fuel pump as the culprit behind all my issues. I've read that the fuel filter is built into the pump assembly, correct? Am I looking at a clogged filter or something more serious like a failing pump?
    As for your mystery no start issue, do a search. These things flood out easily. I have one flood at least once a month. If they don't start on the first try they're usually flooded. If you start it then shut it off quickly when it's cold outside, they can be flooded. If you let go of the key before it's actually running when trying to start, they can flood.

    I see your other thread complaining about vibrations....I'll just reply here instead of multiple possibly related threads.

    You say you just got the car, so it's hard to say what's going on. Without seeing what's actually happening, all your complaints could be normal, especially when compared to a Camry or caravan.

    When does it clunk? Shifting from park/neutral to drive? Shifting from drive to reverse? Only Reverse?

    When does it vibrate? When idling in park/neutral only? While driving? While on the throttle, while coasting? While coasting in neutral? While coasting in neutral with the engine off? While braking?

    Try to give way more information than you think you should rather when posting a problem. What did you eat for breakfast and how many yellow cars did you see the day you were having problems? Pretend like you're trying to explain something to someone who is on the other side of the continent or world.

    I highly recommend against blindly throwing parts at your car. As funny as it is to watch others throw money down the toilet, it's kinda wasteful. But if you insist, there are 3 mounts. One on the top of the transmission, one on the engine, and one dog bone mount that just stops the engine from rocking. It bolts to the transmission on one end(iirc) and the end bolts inside the suspension cross member. If you get gravel and mud jammed up inside the cross member(I see it happen on work cars), the car can vibrate really bad. Really you could have anything wrong(or nothing) need more info.

    I didn't proof read this so...

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage SE wussie cvt edition. 1.2 automatic: 37.7 mpg (US) ... 16.0 km/L ... 6.2 L/100 km ... 45.3 mpg (Imp)


  5. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Fummins For This Useful Post:

    Bennett15ify (05-22-2022),CROSSBOLT (05-21-2022),mohammad (05-21-2022)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fummins View Post
    As for your mystery no start issue, do a search. These things flood out easily. I have one flood at least once a month. If they don't start on the first try they're usually flooded. If you start it then shut it off quickly when it's cold outside, they can be flooded. If you let go of the key before it's actually running when trying to start, they can flood.

    I see your other thread complaining about vibrations....I'll just reply here instead of multiple possibly related threads.

    You say you just got the car, so it's hard to say what's going on. Without seeing what's actually happening, all your complaints could be normal, especially when compared to a Camry or caravan.

    When does it clunk? Shifting from park/neutral to drive? Shifting from drive to reverse? Only Reverse?

    When does it vibrate? When idling in park/neutral only? While driving? While on the throttle, while coasting? While coasting in neutral? While coasting in neutral with the engine off? While braking?

    Try to give way more information than you think you should rather when posting a problem. What did you eat for breakfast and how many yellow cars did you see the day you were having problems? Pretend like you're trying to explain something to someone who is on the other side of the continent or world.

    I highly recommend against blindly throwing parts at your car. As funny as it is to watch others throw money down the toilet, it's kinda wasteful. But if you insist, there are 3 mounts. One on the top of the transmission, one on the engine, and one dog bone mount that just stops the engine from rocking. It bolts to the transmission on one end(iirc) and the end bolts inside the suspension cross member. If you get gravel and mud jammed up inside the cross member(I see it happen on work cars), the car can vibrate really bad. Really you could have anything wrong(or nothing) need more info.

    I didn't proof read this so...
    Hi, Fummins! Thanks for the detailed response.

    No yellow cars that I can recall and I skipped breakfast

    The car vibrates a LOT in drive/reverse at idle. It's very bothersome when sitting at a stoplight. AC can be on or off, doesn't matter. The vibration immediately goes away if I put the car in neutral.

    The clunk/jolt is felt when accelerating from a stop/low speed. I have read it's normal for the trans to shift into neutral when coming to a stop. I'm sure the trans is doing what it's supposed to but assume worn mounts are exasperating the shift.

    I know these cars are very affordable and simple and recognize they will feel more spartan and unrefined because of it. However, I do feel I'm dealing with worn mounts. What do you think? I recall that a newer mirage I've driven did not do these things.

    If I am to replace mounts, do newer cars have different part numbers for the upgraded 2017+ mounts? Which of the three mounts would make the most dramatic improvement?

    The previous owner provided meticulous maintenance records; they indicate the mounts are original. Visual inspection shows cracking. I figure with 100k+ miles they're due for an update, especially since the forum indicates newer model year mounts make a vast improvement. Is this correct?

    Thanks for the info on the engine flooding. I'll chalk up the no-start issue to this!

    Thanks for your help!

  7. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Bennett15ify For This Useful Post:

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    FYS - I don't think there's any problem with that. The exhaust note does have some warble to it, but I couldn't say it sounded like a problem.

    But I think (I don't know, just think), that modern tachometers are electronal. And my gut tells me the following. Now don't quote me on these numbers, these numbers are just to explain my thinking about a tachometer that might be a bit jumpy like yours was in the beginning of the video.

    Let's say a modern tach reacts via programming to every 25 rpm. So say at 925, 950, 975 and so on the tach is programed to move up a linear skosh. And lets say an engine is programmed to idle at say, 930 rpm (for example).

    In real life, the rpm the engine actually spins at at idle is going to vary from its 930 rpm target, a little bit. It might vary ±40 rpm, for example. Not just varying up and down cyclical, but all over the place within that ±40 rpm zone. The variance is a resolution that we don't care about generally and has no negative effect on the engine. That small rpm variation could be based on lots of reasons, but probably mainly on the quality of AFR and burn rate of the air/fuel entering the cylinders at that target rpm.

    So, by my guesstimation, if the engine were actually hovering at 925 rpm, and up and down around that rpm, the tach needle is going to jump around from a "setting" of 900 rpm, to a "setting" of 925 rpm. Based on the logic between how that tach needle is programmed to respond and the logic of what is happening in reality.

    That jumping of the needle might look troubling, but in my example that tach needle jumping is totally a NON-ISSUE. This could be what was causing your needle to jump around a bit.

    I wouldn't fret 1 more second over your tach jumping. My $0.02. Let me know if you need change back.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2020 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 42.9 mpg (US) ... 18.2 km/L ... 5.5 L/100 km ... 51.5 mpg (Imp)


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    Could be a dirty MAF sensor?

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    Senior Member Fummins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bennett15ify View Post
    Hi, Fummins! Thanks for the detailed response.

    No yellow cars that I can recall and I skipped breakfast

    The car vibrates a LOT in drive/reverse at idle. It's very bothersome when sitting at a stoplight. AC can be on or off, doesn't matter. The vibration immediately goes away if I put the car in neutral.

    The clunk/jolt is felt when accelerating from a stop/low speed. I have read it's normal for the trans to shift into neutral when coming to a stop. I'm sure the trans is doing what it's supposed to but assume worn mounts are exasperating the shift.

    I know these cars are very affordable and simple and recognize they will feel more spartan and unrefined because of it. However, I do feel I'm dealing with worn mounts. What do you think? I recall that a newer mirage I've driven did not do these things.

    If I am to replace mounts, do newer cars have different part numbers for the upgraded 2017+ mounts? Which of the three mounts would make the most dramatic improvement?

    The previous owner provided meticulous maintenance records; they indicate the mounts are original. Visual inspection shows cracking. I figure with 100k+ miles they're due for an update, especially since the forum indicates newer model year mounts make a vast improvement. Is this correct?

    Thanks for the info on the engine flooding. I'll chalk up the no-start issue to this!

    Thanks for your help!
    Anything is possible. There's a thread about all the different part number changes between the years. 2017 are supposed to have different mounts...Visually they look identical and would bolt up. The only one I have replaced on mine is the dogbone looking one between the transmission and cross member. The bushings themselves were larger in diameter. I didn't notice any difference though.
    As for your vibration, the air cleaner can vibrate annoyingly. I don't know if it'd be bad enough to shake the steering wheel though.


    The exhaust is another spot to check that I didn't think of til now. If it got bumped from below and one of the rubber hangers came off that could cause a vibration. Check the furthest forward hanger on the drivers side of the under the console(ish) area.

    I had to replace a few engine mounts on our Sonics. They'd vibrate really bad, as if the engine was solid mounted to the frame. I haven't had to replace a Mirage mount yet, our highest has around 475k kms. Anything can wear out though.....


        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage SE wussie cvt edition. 1.2 automatic: 37.7 mpg (US) ... 16.0 km/L ... 6.2 L/100 km ... 45.3 mpg (Imp)


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