I think you got the worst mechanic lol
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View my fuel log 2014 Mirage SE wussie cvt edition. 1.2 automatic: 37.7 mpg (US) ... 16.0 km/L ... 6.2 L/100 km ... 45.3 mpg (Imp)
AtomicPunk (06-22-2022),Basic (06-21-2022),Dirk Diggler (06-21-2022),Mark (06-21-2022)
The dealer not disclosing that the engine had been replaced prior to you purchasing the car is where the disappointment begins, and some of these issues could be related to that. It created some issues with your small pipes (crushed) going through the firewall (connecting your engine bay to your heater core). Could a freon leak be related to the installation of a replacement engine, too? It's possible!
Some of these lemon issues may be a result of shoddy work being done to your Mirage in the past, and your current mechanic is not helping the situation. I don't blame you for being discouraged! Hang in there & hope for the best!
AtomicPunk (06-22-2022),Dirk Diggler (06-21-2022),Fummins (06-21-2022),inuvik (06-21-2022)
Good points. I can relate to dealing with a janky engine install. The previous owner of my truck replaced the engine years before selling it, there were no obvious apprentice marks initially but over time the random parts of the wiring harness were kinked, cracking the insulation then corroding until they started causing problems. That was a pita to track down, I owned the thing for 5 or 6 years and am still having random wiring problems because of that install. Over time I found it just easier to run new wires instead of trying to trace exactly where one is broken...Dealing with other peoples previous janky work is a pita.
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View my fuel log 2014 Mirage SE wussie cvt edition. 1.2 automatic: 37.7 mpg (US) ... 16.0 km/L ... 6.2 L/100 km ... 45.3 mpg (Imp)
AtomicPunk (06-22-2022),Dirk Diggler (06-21-2022)
I thought it was normal for the A/C to cycle on/off/on, etc.
Mine comes on for about 20 seconds, off for 20 seconds, on for 20 seconds and so on. It has been doing that since day one and that was 8 years ago.
mohammad (06-22-2022)
You'd be correct. What you're being told is BS, and you are also correct, they can't figure it out. I doubt it is related to the electrical work, but I could be wrong on that.
My guess is that it is leaking back from the engine replacement work, and whatever leak that was initiated back then has slowly gotten worse. Your repair shop should have evacuated it to start with, and then refilled it with refrigerant with leak dye. Then the leak could be detected, and now your decision would be more simple. To pay the money to fix the leak or dump it.
If you get to the point where it is no longer cooling effectively, and you want to try a Hail Mary before dumping, I will be glad to recharge it correctly. No charge of course, we're Mirage buddies. What we'd do is pull a vacuum and drink a beer, judge the leak while drinking another beer, recharge it with refrigerant with leak dye while drinking more beer. Then you can drive it for a while (you know a couple weeks) and take it to a shop and let them shine a blue light (or whatever it is) at it, and you guys can discuss what to do about whatever leak that is found. You'd just have to buy refrigerant with leak dye is all, for the Hail Mary. That's like maybe $20 or so for our Mirage. And tolerate hanging around a dude that looks like Shrek and smells twice as bad.
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View my fuel log 2020 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 42.4 mpg (US) ... 18.0 km/L ... 5.6 L/100 km ... 50.9 mpg (Imp)
Basic (06-22-2022),Dirk Diggler (06-23-2022),Fummins (06-22-2022),inuvik (06-22-2022)
Here is what AllData says. It looks like OE info. Not sure if the shop did this kind of performance tests. I read somewhere that 20 degrees cooler than ambient air was considered normal but these charts shows up to 15 degrees less can be considered acceptable. I wonder what your shop considers normal. I would have gotten two thermometers and made them idle my car next to one of theirs.
Last edited by Christopher_B; 06-22-2022 at 10:00 PM.
Dirk Diggler (06-23-2022),Fummins (06-23-2022)
I could not figure out why in the hell you would test the system with all the doors open. After reading the procedure I see they want you to measure the temp as it enters the HVAC box and then comes out. This does seem like it would give you the best way to quantify the performance. This also seems like something anyone could do with a set of gauges and thermometers. I do not know where you get a wet and dry bulb set however and would have to read more about those.
I am very curious to know how this pans out.
Last edited by Christopher_B; 06-22-2022 at 09:57 PM.
Dirk Diggler (06-23-2022)
Right back to square one. It might be the engine replacement did this AC in.
When car is in motion, park, or neutral I can hear it cycle on and the cabin is cooling off.
When idling in drive with my foot on the brake, it starts to blow much warmer air.
My mechanic has given up at this point.
What in the world could produce these conditions?