Wife's G4 just had the battery light come on again after 2 years.

[Dirk Diggler]

Pretty hard to read driving down the road based upon where it is normally placed.

I'm being serious I got a brand new one from work. Its valued at $40.

[AtomicPunk]

I'm being serious I got a brand new one from work. Its valued at $40.

You could try it. I don't know how low those read, to be honest. Never crossed my mind, because, well, "ew". BUT (lol), theoretically a brand new one might work. You need it to read down to 40-50 degrees F (4-10 C). And I just don't know if a rectal thermometer will do that. That's some pretty severe hypothermia.

[Dirk Diggler]

You could try it. I don't know how low those read, to be honest. Never crossed my mind, because, well, "ew". BUT (lol), theoretically a brand new one might work. You need it to read down to 40-50 degrees F (4-10 C). And I just don't know if a rectal thermometer will do that. That's some pretty severe hypothermia.

The place I sub-contract out of is always giving me free medical equipment. I've never had to use one, but I grabbed it thinking you never know when it might come in handy lol.

[AtomicPunk]

The place I sub-contract out of is always giving me free medical equipment. I've never had to use one, but I grabbed it thinking you never know when it might come in handy lol.

Always take the swag and freebies from the reps.

[Dirk Diggler]

Always take the swag and freebies from the reps.

From I've been told, the most accurate form of checking Temps is rectal. Not kidding.

[AtomicPunk]

From I've been told, the most accurate form of checking Temps is rectal. Not kidding.

Yep. Core Temps are the most accurate. As a corpsman at Parris Island, had recruits drop out of PT all the time in the heat, had to take rectal core Temps and if high enough, rush to battalion aid station and put them in a bathtub full of ice water to drop that temp and avoid heat stroke.

[Dirk Diggler]

Yep. Core Temps are the most accurate. As a corpsman at Parris Island, had recruits drop out of PT all the time in the heat, had to take rectal core Temps and if high enough, rush to battalion aid station and put them in a bathtub full of ice water to drop that temp and avoid heat stroke.

Ahhhh I forgot you were a squid correct? One of the most dangerous jobs as a sailor IIRC, being assigned to a squad of Marines.

[AtomicPunk]

Ahhhh I forgot you were a squid correct? One of the most dangerous jobs as a sailor IIRC, being assigned to a squad of Marines.

It's up there, but I'd rather be with an infantry platoon (or assault squad in my case) than in a sub. Or working the flight deck on a carrier. Hats off to those guys/gals.

[Christopher_B]

5° might be difficult to discern on that gauge. I done got one. It's difficult to read it while driving. It's daggone small. Especially for dinosaurs.

Dirk - The quickest best way to check for a leak is to evacuate the refrigerant, pull a deep vacuum on the system, turn off the vacuum pump and let it sit in vacuum state for ~30 minutes. Drink beer or smoke some of that wacky tobacky you got, then go look at the vacuum gauge. If it has lost vacuum there is a leak.



NOPE. The people you had check / fill your system, no way they evacuated for the cost they charged you.

The vacuum does 2 things. Makes a leak apparent, and evaporates water (vapor) out of the system (thusly improving cooling performance). Once that's done, refrigerant can be added, brought up to the official capacity. But if it has a leak, it's gonna leak out. If the leak is miniscule, it might be worth doing, yearly or every 2 years. If the leak is large, it is better to find and fix the leak. Leak repair can be expensive. It can be inexpensive too.

My impression by your description is that you have a leak but it is small to miniscule. Losing cooling performance at idle is common. The compressor (I believe) is "rated" for some level of performance, but it will be at some rpm above idle. Probably in the 2,500 to 3,500 rpm zone. I don't know. That's an HVAC engineer's thang.

If I were you, for now, I'd monitor the situation. My Blueberry, I can feel the A/C not do as well at idle. But it's system is pretty small. My Lexus and Ram have 4 or 5 times the capacity of the Mirage. The Lexus has a whole nother evaporator for the rear seat occupants. The Lexus will put the women on HIGH beams in short order. The Ram, I don't know why it has so much capacity. Bigger is better I guess.

P.S. You may notice a blue streak passing your neighborhood, ohhhhh about 7 pm. I'm heading up to Cartersville to meet my sister and B-I-L to have dinner with them. I'm also gonna use the Northwest Corridor because I'm so high fallootin'. I don't know where your homestead is in relation to the I-285 / I-75 interchange & the Northwest Corridor.

Also be aware if a vehicle uses the new R1234YF refrigerant I think the capacity is usually 20% of what R134a systems use. For a 2019 Mirage hatch I see a capacity of 9.5oz of R134a vs.... wait SomeData is showing the same capacity for 20+ models using the new refrigerant. I hope that is incorrect as the new stuff sells for about $8 an ounce.

My wife is on a 6 hour drive in ours. (We drive the piss out of it -- 41K since 2/1/21) I will have her check the capacity of our 2021 next time she stops.

[Christopher_B]

VERY odd .. wife showed me the sticker under the hood and it shows .270Kg (9.52oz) I was under the impression that R1234YF vehicles take a fraction of the amount of R134a but I cannot find anything concrete on that only saying they use less.

If i have issues I will probably use components from an older model and convert to R134a since I have 30Lbs.