I was considering doing a youtube video on eco-mods like talking about DFCO, adding regen braking, I even have a manufacturer lined up to produce an active lower front grill shutter for the mirage.
All these ideas cost quite some money, who knows what the future holds. maybe ill be the first ghetto regen brake mirage in north America
Im sorry this happened to you! You dont know me but I love your Youtube channel and have used your advice on my own Mirage with success. Admittedly, I have next to zero knowledge on collision repair. I had a Cobalt that somebody borrowed and they had a minor collision with a wall and it caused minor damage to the frame. Even after my father in law fixed it, the steering wheel would stay turned when it was turned all the way (instead of going straight). I still drove it for 5 years after that. Make sure your steering is all good. Im sure the car has plenty of life left. It doesnt appear the other car was going very fast when it hit. Do you have to take it to a shop for the insurance claim?
Was / is this Mirage a Turo car?
I did some seatbelt development, I forget if it was with Toyota or Hyundai. Maybe both. I think all or most use a (I forget what it's called) a swing lock, momentum based. Some or all use a pyrotechnic to fire pretensioners. Don't let that scare you ... those pyrotechnics are really good things, those don't blow anyone's head or arms off.
But those pretensioners don't fire unless the airbags fire. And if it were a side collision, perhaps the swing locks didn't activate. And some 5'2" people are women. And women sometimes bitc ... errr, uhhhh, complain that their seatbelt rubs them on the neck so they pull a crapload of slack in them, or put them behind their back. A very bad idea.
As a former automotive engineer, I will say that seatbelts are absolutely amazing. Side curtain airbags are very darn good. Other airbags are dangerous to fru-fru if a seatbelt is worn properly.
View my fuel log 2020 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 42.9 mpg (US) ... 18.2 km/L ... 5.5 L/100 km ... 51.5 mpg (Imp)
Make sure the one rubber ac line hasn't been pushed into the ac compressor pulley, that's a relatively common issue when the rad support gets pushed back on the rh side. And someone had the upper line break as well.
Double check that the washer pump works and the jug isn't damaged. Just cause it wasn't leaking doesn't mean it wasn't already ran dry days ago and now has a hole in it lol.
The upper tie bar unbolts with a bunch of 10mm bolts(where the number 3 is above), but everything else is basically one piece(spot welded together), including the bumper rebar(horizontal crash bar). The welds are a pita to drill out even with a spot weld bit. The rad and condenser don't have to be drained or removed while replacing the rad support. They kinda just hang there. Just don't kink or put stress on the ac lines.
You don't need much for tools, mostly 10, 12 and maybe 14mm sockets, 3/8" drive is good enough. And a pair of side cutters or some type of body clip removal tool. 10mm closed wrench helps remove all the clips that hold the wiring harness in place. Everything is pretty straight forward and I'm sure they're a how to remove bumper post around here somewhere. The fender has one bolt that's accessed by opening the door and using a long extension(10mm), another one behind the plastic triangle looking trim piece forward of the mirror, and another behind the rocker molding that will may break off because Ontario.
The repeater light on the fender comes off easy, slide it forward or backwards(it'll only move one way) then pull/swing the other end away from the body.
This is a pretty jumbled around post, if you need step by step directions or get stuck with anything let me know I'll try to make more sense.
I found a website that sells the side radiator support brackets new for $18, car-part.com wants at least $150 for it used. website is partsouq.com too bad i can't afford the thousand dollar shipping on a lower radiator support.
@Fummins or anyone else:
What spot welds are you talking about?
ALSO, how does the lower radiator support attach to the car? i dont see any bolts or anything in the diagram. The two side pieces and bottom piece are 3 separate part numbers but i dont see how the bottom is attached..
Also, if you could describe to me what the battery hold down is attached (mines loose) and how to diagnose an engine bent towards the passenger cabin? bad lower mount or messed up frame?
I am not able to source a lower rad support or a hood in my poverty ass budget.
I havent started disassembly yet, hopefully a rubber mallet and a little love is all that is needed.
Last edited by mohammad; 05-25-2022 at 03:53 AM.
Check your axle if its still properly fit on the transmission with that kind of hit the axel tends to jump out of place and eventually drain the oil on your transmission, also check your hub if its still aligned, front hub of this car tends to bend easily wrong method of bearing installation can bend it much more if hit side ways.
The 2 upright sides of the rad support are spot welded to the lower piece.
The rebar is spot welded to the two uprights. The upper tie bar is just bolted to the 2 uprights.
The entire assembly bolts to the frame rails with 8 bolts.
If your engine is actually pushed back then you probably have bigger issues than just a fender and hood. I've seen a lot of greasy hack job back yard repairs, don't be that guy. Did you look at the frame rail(s) at all? Maybe Metro will buy it for cheap?