2020 Mirage HVAC Issue

[Patrick_Henry]

Because they're blue. And I agree, I wish mine had the manual HVAC.

LOL! Where can I git me one of them magical blue ones? I'll give you my gray one and 10K cash for your blue one!

[7milesout]

LOL! Where can I git me one of them magical blue ones? I'll give you my gray one and 10K cash for your blue one!

We might have a deal! However, I treat my vehicles like a princess for the first 5,000 miles. I don't know, but I think it makes the engine more row-BUST. It's no big Chinese secret. I just change the oil way more frequent until 5,000 miles than the book calls for.

When I was at Toyota, I read an article. I think it was a GM engine study. GM took a crap load of the same V8 engines and experimented on them. They took a bunch of them and ran them on engine dynos under a load and stopped them really frequently in the beginning and changed their oil. The next bunch less frequent. Maybe one more iteration less frequent. A bunch at the normal book callout. And I can't remember for sure, but it seems they took a bunch more and didn't change their oil for a loooooong time (like rental car engines are done). They did oil analsys on all the oil changes. The result was eye opening, at least to me.

Their results stated that the metal count in the first oil change was always very high. But dropped rapidly with subsequent oil changes. And after some equivalent of high mileage (50k miles or 100k miles) I don't remember the detail, they did compression measurements on all the tested engines. And the data was clear, those in the frequent oil change group had the highest residual compression numbers. And the compression numbers dropped off linearly from there. Granted, even the ones that stuck to the book recommendation for oil changes had acceptable compression, so it wasn't critical. Their theory was (as I remember) that the tiny microscopic particles of metal would make their way onto the cylinder walls (as expected) and do some microscopic "machining" to either the rings or cylinder walls (or both), and ever so slightly reduce the CR microscopically over time.

So, when we do put together an all Mirage drag race, I may beat the equivalent Mirage (with equivalent fatass behind the wheel) to the finish line by 4.8 inches. And that's veeeeery important, if one is an OCD-ass like myself.


One more little jewel. When I was with Hyundai-Kia, they built engines in Montgomery as well. They took lots and lots of steps to clean away metal shavings. But guess what? They would still find huge amounts of metal in their engines. They'd check this sometimes at the plant. It was amazing as much as they did to clean it out and prevent it, still, metal. And a fair amount of it. Sorry to go off topic...

[Patrick_Henry]

We might have a deal! However, I treat my vehicles like a princess for the first 5,000 miles. I don't know, but I think it makes the engine more row-BUST. It's no big Chinese secret. I just change the oil way more frequent until 5,000 miles than the book calls for.

When I was at Toyota, I read an article. I think it was a GM engine study. GM took a crap load of the same V8 engines and experimented on them. They took a bunch of them and ran them on engine dynos under a load and stopped them really frequently in the beginning and changed their oil. The next bunch less frequent. Maybe one more iteration less frequent. A bunch at the normal book callout. And I can't remember for sure, but it seems they took a bunch more and didn't change their oil for a loooooong time (like rental car engines are done). They did oil analsys on all the oil changes. The result was eye opening, at least to me.

Their results stated that the metal count in the first oil change was always very high. But dropped rapidly with subsequent oil changes. And after some equivalent of high mileage (50k miles or 100k miles) I don't remember the detail, they did compression measurements on all the tested engines. And the data was clear, those in the frequent oil change group had the highest residual compression numbers. And the compression numbers dropped off linearly from there. Granted, even the ones that stuck to the book recommendation for oil changes had acceptable compression, so it wasn't critical. Their theory was (as I remember) that the tiny microscopic particles of metal would make their way onto the cylinder walls (as expected) and do some microscopic "machining" to either the rings or cylinder walls (or both), and ever so slightly reduce the CR microscopically over time.

So, when we do put together an all Mirage drag race, I may beat the equivalent Mirage (with equivalent fatass behind the wheel) to the finish line by 4.8 inches. And that's veeeeery important, if one is an OCD-ass like myself.


One more little jewel. When I was with Hyundai-Kia, they built engines in Montgomery as well. They took lots and lots of steps to clean away metal shavings. But guess what? They would still find huge amounts of metal in their engines. They'd check this sometimes at the plant. It was amazing as much as they did to clean it out and prevent it, still, metal. And a fair amount of it. Sorry to go off topic...

It's all good bruh. That's all good information actually. I was a diesel mechanic for a very long time. I started out with vehicles but in the eighties when all the FWD stuff started getting mainstream I decided I didn't like working on FWD vehicles so I took up the diesel business. It was kind of a natural transition for me since most of my family was in the trucking business anyway. So I was always interested in oil analysis results as well. I remember in the late 90's there was a big controversy over the 3000 mile oil change interval. Allegedly, the oil companies had teamed up with the automakers for that to sell more oil. Shortly after that, they changed a lot of the manuals. They put it in fine print that the 3000 mile oil change interval was for "severe service". Stuff like extremely dusty conditions, a lot of stop and go traffic, etc.

I'm of the opinion that the oil change intervals aren't as important as the oil filtration. One of my uncles who was in the trucking business had been an aviation mechanic in the military. He designed an oil filtration system and put it on a chevy van that he had. It basically was 2 rolls of what looked like toilet paper rolls without the cardboard tube in the middle in a housing that he designed and machined himself. He would drive it 5000 miles, change the filters, add a quart of oil and drive it another 5000 miles before he would change the oil and filters. That van had well over 400K on the clock when he died and my aunt drove it for probably another year after that before she sold it. As far as I know, it never used a drop of oil. He always said that oil would last a very long time if you keep all the trash out of it. That being said, I thought the 7500 mile intervals on these Mirage's was a little excessive. I talked to a couple of the mechanics at the $tealership and they said they haven't seen any problems with them. I've been doing mine at 7000 just because it's easier to keep up with. That leads me to a question I've been meaning to ask here for a while which is off topic as well. What does everyone use to change the oil filters? With the little metal drain under the filter, it's hard to get anything on it. I've been using a small pair of filter pliers but that's not ideal IMO. I bought a set of filter sockets and the closest one that fits that filter is a 65-67 mm. But it's a little too big for the filter. But that seems like the best way to do it if I could find one that fits good and tight on the end of the filter.

[mohammad]

That leads me to a question I've been meaning to ask here for a while which is off topic as well. What does everyone use to change the oil filters? With the little metal drain under the filter, it's hard to get anything on it. I've been using a small pair of filter pliers but that's not ideal IMO. I bought a set of filter sockets and the closest one that fits that filter is a 65-67 mm. But it's a little too big for the filter. But that seems like the best way to do it if I could find one that fits good and tight on the end of the filter.

Ive been using a pair of filter pliers with sharp "teeth" that can bite into/crush the filter if needed. I made a youtube video on me using it that can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1O5BCFaELVo

you can see me use the filter pliers at the 6:20mark in the video.

[Mark]

That leads me to a question I've been meaning to ask here for a while which is off topic as well. What does everyone use to change the oil filters? With the little metal drain under the filter, it's hard to get anything on it. I've been using a small pair of filter pliers but that's not ideal IMO. I bought a set of filter sockets and the closest one that fits that filter is a 65-67 mm. But it's a little too big for the filter. But that seems like the best way to do it if I could find one that fits good and tight on the end of the filter.

I bought my oil filter socket from the same store that I buy my oil filters from. I took a new oil filter out of the box & made sure it fit tightly on the oil filter.

A one size 65mm/14 flute oil filter socket will grip better than a two size one.

Given the limited space when working from above, you may want to AVOID this style (takes up ratchet & socket together take up too much space) -

https://www.amazon.com/SXJZ-Compatib...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==


Some feel the aluminum alloy oil filter sockets are best, but they can be shallow. They don't grab all oil filters equally well. They are well made, however.

https://www.amazon.com/Bonsicoky-Fil...dDbGljaz10cnVl

I have this one (below), & it works very well with the oil filters I use on my Mirage. Unlike the 65/67mm style, the 65mm one slides on more snug & grips the oil filter better. Once you slide it over the oil filter, it takes up very little space (leaving enough room to work). The radiator hose is close on my ES manual. I actually use the fingertips of both hands (one on each side of the radiator hose) to spin the oil filter on or off when loose.

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-T...A%3D%3D&sr=8-9

A stubby handle 3/8" ratchet works best for me. Even though one should be able to do this job (1/4 turn to tighten) by hand (no tools necessary), I find it much easier to do it with the short handled ratchet and 65mm/14 flute oil filter socket. I can't get a good enough hand grip on the oil filter to put it on or take off. The correct tool makes it simple. I don't want to damage a new filter when putting it on either.

Keep in mind - Spinning a new oil filter on by hand helps create more space for the oil filter socket & ratchet to slip in place to tighten it afterwards. Likewise, once you loosen the oil filter it may be best to remove the oil filter socket before spinning the oil filter completely off. There's not a lot of extra space in front of the radiator hose.

[Mark]

I remember in the late 90's there was a big controversy over the 3000 mile oil change interval. Allegedly, the oil companies had teamed up with the automakers for that to sell more oil. Shortly after that, they changed a lot of the manuals. They put it in fine print that the 3000 mile oil change interval was for "severe service". Stuff like extremely dusty conditions, a lot of stop and go traffic, etc.

I'm of the opinion that the oil change intervals aren't as important as the oil filtration.

The Mirage has two maintenance schedules (3,750 miles & 7,500 mile recommended oil change intervals). Since switching to full synthetic oils and mid-grade (versus cheap) oil filters, I have gone to 5,000 mile oil changes. The Mirage only holds 3 quarts of oil. If I strictly did highway miles and racked them up fast, I would probably do the longer 7,500 mile intervals. I am at peace with doing 5,000 mile oil/filter change intervals for now.

Since switching from conventional oil to full synthetic oil, we have done 5,000 mile oil/filter changes on all our driving school vehicles, too. Most mechanics that I respect recommend 5,000 mile oil changes when using full synthetic.

[defensivetackle88]

Not to change the subject but I have just reached 3,000 miles on odometer. Is it really necessary to have the very 1st oil change early at the dealership for maintaining the warranty purposes or so called "deficiency period"? I thought I should wait until I reach 5,000 miles. Thought?

[7milesout]

Not necessary for maintaining the warranty.

[Mark]

Not to change the subject but I have just reached 3,000 miles on odometer. Is it really necessary to have the very 1st oil change early at the dealership for maintaining the warranty purposes or so called "deficiency period"? I thought I should wait until I reach 5,000 miles. Thought?

If I owned a new Mirage, I would do oil changes @ 3,000 miles, 6,500 miles, & 10,000 miles for the first three oil changes. That would get me to 10,000 miles, & I would do 5,000 mile oil changes for the next 10-15 years after that.

I am not saying anyone else would have to do the same, but it would be what I would do now. New engines have more debris in them than most people realize. In some cases, metal shavings even create engine recalls. I know factories do their best to address this, but shorter oil change intervals are cheap extra insurance to help with this, too.

I didn't do the above with my Mirage, but I wish that I had. Since the two maintenance schedules are 3,750 & 7,500 mile oil change intervals, I like doing 5,000 mile oil changes with a full synthetic oil & a decent oil filter.

If I was leasing a vehicle, I would do whatever the dealership wants. If I am planning to keep my vehicle for 10+ years, I am going to do what I feel is best for it. It's only 3 quarts of oil. I see no reason for keeping in there for extended periods of time. I am not saying we need to return to the 3,000 mile oil change intervals with conventional oils of the past, but I may do a few shorter intervals oil changes for a new engine.