UnderdogThese came off of my 2015 Mirage that was used extensively for autocross. The car has been retired from autocross and returned to pure street duty. I even reinstalled the back seat!
$200 + shipping from 34695 for all of the kit listed below.
Lower Control Arms - Stock replacements, modified to accept a threaded (70's Chrysler upper style) ball joint and be 1/4" longer for more negative camber. Fitted with QA-1 extended ball joints.
Outer Tie-Rod Ends - This is a custom "bump steer correction" kit using standard race car parts and a custom machined aluminum adapter to thread to the Mirage tie-rods. It all fits quite well and is adjustable (with spacers) to get the tie-rod angle where you want it. They are open spherical joints (heim joints, rose joints, whatever you want to call them). High quality parts, nice and tight and responsive, but they require regular oiling. If you don't do so, they SQUEAK! This is why I wanted to get them the heck off of this "street car" before I sell it.
Those two sets of parts are great for a significantly lowered car. When you lower a car, you change the lower control arm and tie-rod angle. The extended ball joints bring that angle closer to level. (and the only way to fit extended lower ball joints on a Mirage is to modify a LCA to fit them) The bump steer correcting tie-rod ends do the same for the tie rod.
What all of this accomplishes is "lowering the roll center" and making the steering less affected by bumps or body roll. (more consistent steering) Lowering the roll center has the delightful effect of mechanically reducing the car's desire to body roll! It's an effect that can absolutely be felt! It's sort of like fitting stiffer swaybars, but you're not actually making the car stiffer... just putting more of your cornering energy into the contact patch rather than into body roll. There's still plenty of body roll, mind you, but this helps. It was a really fun experiment to research how all that works, put it all together and feel how it works!
Also worthy of note, extending the lower ball joint brings the end of the control arm down and this particular setup will NOT clear the factory wheels, and it will NOT clear all 15" wheels. (some do, some don't, depends on how the "barrel" of the wheel is shaped) 16" wheels or larger shouldn't be a problem. I ran 15x7 Advanti Storms and presently 15x6.5 Konig Heliums with no problems. 15" RPF1's are known to NOT fit, as well as some stock Miata wheels.
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