Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Changing Out Suspension Parts - Questions

  1. #1
    Senior Member Ares's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Houston
    Country
    United States
    Posts
    1,908
    Thanks
    42
    Thanked 201 Times in 142 Posts

    Changing Out Suspension Parts - Questions

    I'm back from the long slumber.

    I've had shocks & struts in the house for a while and I've also purchased LCAs as well. I'm planning to swap in the new goodies this weekend and just have a few questions/clarifications:

    1. Threadlocker - medium or high strength?

    2. Other than strut/spring compressor, do I need any other tools?
    - I bought several shock absorber tools to hopefully aid in holding the shock rod/piston when removing the nut
    - I believe there are different ball joint separator tools. I'm hoping to borrow one from autozone. I've also seen videos using a BFH instead... I don't have a BFH but would like to take any opportunity to buy one. [edit: the video shows them using a SFH instead which seems to work fine since I'm trashing the old LCA anyway. Maybe I should recycle the old one?]

    3. @Fummins mentioned the sway bar end link will need to be removed. Aren't those things under pressure at all times? Should I have any issues putting it back on? [edit2: the video didnt really show them removing the end link... I just saw them taking it out after it's been undone. I dont believe they also show re-install. UGH.]

    4. Should anything be greased?

    After typing all of the above, I just found the clip below (seems to be Filipino) showing replacement. It seems they performed several edits (cut parts of the clip) so IDK if there was any difficulty removing the sway bar end link. I can assure you that I try my best to stay within ASE and OSHA standards (unlike what can be seen on the video) while working in my garage.





  2. #2
    No thread locker is needed. It's not gonna hurt anything if you use it though. Just tighten everything properly....

    I just changed a control arm the other week. I'll see if I got any pics of it. Sway bar end links are easy to replace if you have both sides of the car jacked up at the same time. They're not under any extreme pressure that'll take your teeth out like a strut will if your spring compressor slips.
    Removing the ball joint from the knuckle/spindle is kinda necessary to replace the control arm. I just use a hammer. A pickle fork works fine too, you don't have to worry about tearing a boot if you're replacing them.
    Mirage videos:

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage SE wussie cvt edition. 1.2 automatic: 37.7 mpg (US) ... 16.0 km/L ... 6.2 L/100 km ... 45.3 mpg (Imp)


  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Country is Europe, state is Germany
    Country
    Germany
    Posts
    1,713
    Thanks
    234
    Thanked 1,158 Times in 670 Posts
    Welcome back, Ares!

    1: Threadlocker? I didn't use any, just followed the instructions of the FSM.

    2: Tools. For the front struts you need a set of universal spring compressors, two pieces, smaller size. Ball joint separator? A cheap universal one should be OK., but you don't need to remove the bottom ball joint. Just the two bolts on the bottom of the front schock absorber connecting it to the knuckle and the two nuts on top of the strut is enough. The strut can then be lifted out easily. The bolt on top in the middle of the strut can be removed without expecting problems, but of course only with the spring compressed on the removed strut. Take care compressing the spring. If the compressors are not evenly spaced and evenly compressed, a compressed spring could suddenly jump off and cause most horrible injuries. Refer to the FSM!

    3: When you do the job on the front axle, make sure to jack up and support both sides at the same time. That way the stabilizer bar is relaxed and you don't need to touch it.

    The rear shocks can be easily replaced. The nut on the very top and the bolt on the bottom limit the downward movement of the axle. When removing the rear shocks, first jack up the car with the rear wheels off, and rest the rear car on supports. Place another support under the lower part under the spring before removing the shock, in order to prevent the assy from dropping and pulling the brake hose apart. You can remove the spring by hand, once the shock is loose.


    4: Lower control arms / balljoints.
    You probably need no more than basic tools. A universal ball joint separator may be handy. Since this and changing shocks will mess up front alignment (camber and Toe) you may want to look at our how to's.:

    https://mirageforum.com/forum/showth...eck-and-adjust

    https://mirageforum.com/forum/showth...ure-and-adjust

    Here again: Read and observe the FSM before you start! It describes procedures and torques. Look at the how-to's above. Its no rocket science but has to be done right.
    Last edited by foama; 12-09-2022 at 06:04 AM.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Ares's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Houston
    Country
    United States
    Posts
    1,908
    Thanks
    42
    Thanked 201 Times in 142 Posts
    After action report (albeit late):

    1. Removed the strut from the car without issues.

    2. Scratched my head trying to figure out how to remove the strut hardware from the old strut to transfer to the new strut. Ended up using ~450ftlb impact wrench to remove & reinstall. Hopefully that didnt kill the new struts

    3. Removed most of the LCA hardware without issues. Did need a ball joint remover tool to release it from whatever that part its connected to (hub?). As much as I wanted to buy a BFH, there was no space since I just had the car on jack stands.

    4. The excess front sway bar bolt does not have a condom so naturally it's rusted over. I made the mistake of not treating the first side I removed with penetrating oil and stripped the bolt; the nut was also useless after that. I was able to treat the second side with lube and had better success of removing without killing the nut/bolt.

    - I was able to go to homedepot and find what seems to be similar size/length nuts and bolts. The homedepot hardware are currently on the mirage but I have also purchased hardware from rockauto. I think the ones from homedepot are zinc coated and may not be as structurally strong so I'll swap in the rockauto hardware sometime during the Christmas weekend.

    5. Sway bar end link bushings - one side seems more cracked than the other. I may have overtightened and squeezed them. Will install new ones that come with the rockauto hardware.

    6. Shocks removal - I bought a couple of shock holder (product1 & product2) and either work well. Though I ended up using the same impact wrench above to remove the nut thinking I didnt care about the old shock anyway. Removal was pretty easy/straightforward/uneventful.

    7. Shocks reinstall - I spent some time, probably 30 minutes, maybe longer, trying to put the the first one on. Bottom bolt lined up nicely. As I was trying to install the top nut, there was barely enough thread for the nut to start. I didnt want to use the impact to tighten this one because I read somewhere not to do so. However, the nut isnt being pushed down enough for me to use the shock absorber holding tool so I can tighten up the nut. Finally, I thought of comparing the old shock to the new shock that hasnt been installed (thank God I didnt remove both of them) and found that the top end of the shock rod is SHORTER by about 1/4 inch. No wonder why this isnt working. And there I thought my incompetence was at work with being unable to put the new one in.

    - Since the "new" shocks were purchased a year or two ago, I cant return it. I was at the end of my straw with playing car technician so I just put the old shock back and put the car together. I suppose I could "modify" (see: remove material) from the bushings so I can have more space to put the nut in far enough for the shock tool to work and for me to tighten the nut. It seems rockauto has shocks for as low as 23.79 at the moment. Maybe I'll get those instead. MONROE is also listed with the word OESpectrum - which is also on the shocks I currently have (that dont fit) so I probably wont get those. SACHS has 2 remaining but at 47.79, I dont think so.

    Oh - in an interesting turn of events, it seems the bigger nuts/bolts have a red coating on the threads. I'm assuming these were loctite threadlocker red. However, since people around the interwebs said not to put any on, I didnt. I did put white lithium grease on areas where I noticed there was some prior. I will re-check TQ figures when I install the bar-end links & shocks just to make sure everything's tight.

    Apologies for the long post.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Ares View Post
    After action report (albeit late):

    1. Removed the strut from the car without issues.

    2. Scratched my head trying to figure out how to remove the strut hardware from the old strut to transfer to the new strut. Ended up using ~450ftlb impact wrench to remove & reinstall. Hopefully that didnt kill the new struts

    3. Removed most of the LCA hardware without issues. Did need a ball joint remover tool to release it from whatever that part its connected to (hub?). As much as I wanted to buy a BFH, there was no space since I just had the car on jack stands.

    4. The excess front sway bar bolt does not have a condom so naturally it's rusted over. I made the mistake of not treating the first side I removed with penetrating oil and stripped the bolt; the nut was also useless after that. I was able to treat the second side with lube and had better success of removing without killing the nut/bolt.

    - I was able to go to homedepot and find what seems to be similar size/length nuts and bolts. The homedepot hardware are currently on the mirage but I have also purchased hardware from rockauto. I think the ones from homedepot are zinc coated and may not be as structurally strong so I'll swap in the rockauto hardware sometime during the Christmas weekend.

    5. Sway bar end link bushings - one side seems more cracked than the other. I may have overtightened and squeezed them. Will install new ones that come with the rockauto hardware.

    6. Shocks removal - I bought a couple of shock holder (product1 & product2) and either work well. Though I ended up using the same impact wrench above to remove the nut thinking I didnt care about the old shock anyway. Removal was pretty easy/straightforward/uneventful.

    7. Shocks reinstall - I spent some time, probably 30 minutes, maybe longer, trying to put the the first one on. Bottom bolt lined up nicely. As I was trying to install the top nut, there was barely enough thread for the nut to start. I didnt want to use the impact to tighten this one because I read somewhere not to do so. However, the nut isnt being pushed down enough for me to use the shock absorber holding tool so I can tighten up the nut. Finally, I thought of comparing the old shock to the new shock that hasnt been installed (thank God I didnt remove both of them) and found that the top end of the shock rod is SHORTER by about 1/4 inch. No wonder why this isnt working. And there I thought my incompetence was at work with being unable to put the new one in.

    - Since the "new" shocks were purchased a year or two ago, I cant return it. I was at the end of my straw with playing car technician so I just put the old shock back and put the car together. I suppose I could "modify" (see: remove material) from the bushings so I can have more space to put the nut in far enough for the shock tool to work and for me to tighten the nut. It seems rockauto has shocks for as low as 23.79 at the moment. Maybe I'll get those instead. MONROE is also listed with the word OESpectrum - which is also on the shocks I currently have (that dont fit) so I probably wont get those. SACHS has 2 remaining but at 47.79, I dont think so.

    Oh - in an interesting turn of events, it seems the bigger nuts/bolts have a red coating on the threads. I'm assuming these were loctite threadlocker red. However, since people around the interwebs said not to put any on, I didnt. I did put white lithium grease on areas where I noticed there was some prior. I will re-check TQ figures when I install the bar-end links & shocks just to make sure everything's tight.

    Apologies for the long post.
    How's your car handle/ride now? I drove a couple of new Mirage recently and had no idea what I was missing!

    I might just start replacing a few things on mine to make it more bearable. I don't know if the front wheel bearings have been replaced but I'm pretty sure the shocks, struts, ball joints, and tie rods are all original. My car has 306,000km on it and I don't have a lot of money tied up in it, the drivetrain has under 30,000kms(19,000miles) on it. It's probably got at least another 5 or so neglectful years before it starts having chunks of rust fall off it so I'm okay with firing the parts cannon at it and seeing if it makes a noticeable improvement.

    I see that kyb list's 2 different front struts now.
    2014-2015 3320010
    2017+ 3320043
    Mirage videos:

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage SE wussie cvt edition. 1.2 automatic: 37.7 mpg (US) ... 16.0 km/L ... 6.2 L/100 km ... 45.3 mpg (Imp)


  6. #6
    Senior Member Wallythacker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Niagara region
    Country
    Canada
    Posts
    2,450
    Thanks
    52
    Thanked 540 Times in 432 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Fummins View Post
    No thread locker is needed. It's not gonna hurt anything if you use it though. Just tighten everything properly....

    I just changed a control arm the other week. I'll see if I got any pics of it. Sway bar end links are easy to replace if you have both sides of the car jacked up at the same time. They're not under any extreme pressure that'll take your teeth out like a strut will if your spring compressor slips.
    Removing the ball joint from the knuckle/spindle is kinda necessary to replace the control arm. I just use a hammer. A pickle fork works fine too, you don't have to worry about tearing a boot if you're replacing them.
    Is chaining struts so you don't get free cosmetic surgery still done these days? I probably did 8-9 strut changes on our Tempo/topaz over almost 2 decades. Always chained them. 2 chains. Ya, I'm pretty and wanted to stay that way.
    Zero, 2014 ES Plus 5MT, written off but not forgotten.
    Zero II, 2014 SE, 5MT, climate She's HOME now!
    Shelby AKA "Cute", 2017 ES 5MT, A/C.

    Mirage owners look at the world differently than everyone else, but in a better way
    We're driving the Beetle of the 21st century, the greatest small car now available!

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2017 Mirage ES PLus 1.2 manual: 39.0 mpg (US) ... 16.6 km/L ... 6.0 L/100 km ... 46.8 mpg (Imp)


  7. #7
    Senior Member Ares's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Houston
    Country
    United States
    Posts
    1,908
    Thanks
    42
    Thanked 201 Times in 142 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Fummins View Post
    How's your car handle/ride now? I drove a couple of new Mirage recently and had no idea what I was missing!
    Based on my butt-o-meter, and the rears not having been changed yet, the struts should probably be changed every 100k miles MAX. 75k mile replacements may be more ideal unless you have perfectly paved blacktop roads.

    Granted, I feel like the most noticeable (negative) change happened between 95k-105k miles.

    Quote Originally Posted by Wallythacker View Post
    Is chaining struts so you don't get free cosmetic surgery still done these days? I probably did 8-9 strut changes on our Tempo/topaz over almost 2 decades. Always chained them. 2 chains. Ya, I'm pretty and wanted to stay that way.
    The rebound (I believe) was shot on the struts. There is still fluid that performs dampening.



Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •