No crank no start

[Mark]

Still doesn't explain the long crank time though. Fummins mentioned that it could have been flooded. Could this be caused by cycling on and off the fuel pump so many times?

I am only addressing your title of the thread "No crank no start".

If the clutch pedal isn't fully depressed, the car will not crank. It prevents absent minded people from starting their cars in gear with the clutch out. Even newer tractors have this feature.

Your first issue may have caused your second issue.

I had a friend call me from work, because her Camry wouldn't crank. The first thing I asked her was is the car in park? She moved her shift lever, & the problem was solved. Save me an hour trip to go help her.

I do driving lessons with 15-17 year old kids all the time. It's a common mistake for them. Sometimes, I let them make those mistakes, because they learn from them better.

[Wallythacker]

Still doesn't explain the long crank time though. Fummins mentioned that it could have been flooded. Could this be caused by cycling on and off the fuel pump so many times?

that, and you might have just been on the cusp of not having enough heat to dissipate the fuel the computer dumped in because it was kinda cold out and the engine was maybe not up to temp. these short run/then no start scenarios seem to be the only consistent issue with starting in various types of weather. I think the WT mats thing is the answer.

[7milesout]

Fummins - If I hadn't had rebuilt the solenoid on my Cummins Denso starter, I wouldn't know why you would suggest smacking the starter with a hammer. The starter on my 2000 Dodge lasted about 19 years. After about 16 years, it started not starting. But I could tell it was simply the starter. I decided to rebuild the solenoid because one of those starters was (at that time) about $260 IIRC. And the rebuildable / replaceable solenoid contacts were ~$22.

I pulled it, replaced those contacts and it lasted about another 3 or 4 years. When it failed the next time it just out of the blue started turning real slow, and not fast enough to get the ISB to light. Since that starter had lasted so long, I shelled out the money for an exact replacement, new in the box Denso starter. Been good as new for the last 3 or 4 years.

Let's hope the OP resolves this and posts it up in here. An interesting thread. My car being 1 year newer than his, I might not be far behind him, unless it's the floor mats. I'm still on the original floor mats so I wouldn't have this issue if that's what it is.

[Fummins]

Fummins - If I hadn't had rebuilt the solenoid on my Cummins Denso starter, I wouldn't know why you would suggest smacking the starter with a hammer. The starter on my 2000 Dodge lasted about 19 years. After about 16 years, it started not starting. But I could tell it was simply the starter. I decided to rebuild the solenoid because one of those starters was (at that time) about $260 IIRC. And the rebuildable / replaceable solenoid contacts were ~$22.

I pulled it, replaced those contacts and it lasted about another 3 or 4 years. When it failed the next time it just out of the blue started turning real slow, and not fast enough to get the ISB to light. Since that starter had lasted so long, I shelled out the money for an exact replacement, new in the box Denso starter. Been good as new for the last 3 or 4 years.

Let's hope the OP resolves this and posts it up in here. An interesting thread. My car being 1 year newer than his, I might not be far behind him, unless it's the floor mats. I'm still on the original floor mats so I wouldn't have this issue if that's what it is.

Like cvt's, I find starters for these cars just a luck of the draw. And when one fails I usually have a few fail in other cars shortly after.
It's been probably a year since I replaced a cvt and probably 2 since I replaced a starter in these things.

At my old job we had a 1985 Case w24c ex Military loader to use in the yard. The starter in it was screwed and boss was too cheap to replace it until it really needed it. So to start it, I'd turn the key to start and somehow lock it there, then hop out and beat on the starter with a hammer, give the air cleaner a good shot of ether, then climb into the cab and unlock the key before it'd self destruct. When the starter finally said no more, they sent it to a rebuilder. It was beaten to a pulp and I don't think there was much left that was salvageable lol

[CROSSBOLT]

Yes. Yes, yes. There. That enough characters, forum robot?

[SoundAdvice]

I've had this recently. The car had not been used for a few weeks, but it started OK. I drove for around 20 miles but noticed the A light did not come on, indicating that maybe it thought the battery was not fully charged. I got home, parked the car temporarily, and when I tried to start it all I heard was the fuel pump (?) run for a few seconds and no cranking. Because I've experienced the mat problem, there was no obstruction. I pushed the car on to my drive. Next day it started normally. Weird. I then manually charged the battery to 15 volts (limited to 1.5 A). Its been fine ever since.

My other car (an identical Mirage 3) had a safety recall concerning the AS&G logic that would deny a start due to getting the battery State of Charge wrong. But according to Mitsubishi the car above has not been recalled for this problem - the engine numbers are vastly different so that's probably why.

Still not convinced of the cause. Maybe damp in the clutch switches confusing the ECU??? I've changed the starter motor relay (AX14, bottom right) just in case it was sticky.