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Thread: Going to do oil change myself at the DIY shop (and rent a lift). What do I need?

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    Going to do oil change myself at the DIY shop (and rent a lift). What do I need?

    I took advantage of the free non-synthetic oil change at Mitsu dealer last summer (mileage showed 3500). Now G4 has 7500 miles on odometer and the wrench icon has appeared.

    Time for me to do the oil change at the DIY shop soon. The oil looks surprisingly dirty, per attached photo.

    Does any one knows what parts do I exactly need and the part numbers as well?

    I was told that I need to get 3 qts of Mitsubishi brand 5W-30 oil, Mitsubishi brand oil filter, Mitsubishi drain plug gasket must be OEM. I didnÂ’t believe them but now IÂ’m not sure as I donÂ’t see a DIY thread re: oil change.

    Also, in a semi-off topic note, I will be installing halogen fog lamps. In case I lose the original bumper clips from the wheel wells (that I will need access to the fog lamp location) or if the clips cannot be reused again, is there a specific size of the bumper clips? Or is it universal? I ask cuz I donÂ’t know.

    I just want to be extra prepared and not overestimate these tasks.



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    Quote Originally Posted by defensivetackle88 View Post
    I took advantage of the free non-synthetic oil change at Mitsu dealer last summer (mileage showed 3500). Now G4 has 7500 miles on odometer and the wrench icon has appeared.

    Time for me to do the oil change at the DIY shop soon. The oil looks surprisingly dirty, per attached photo.

    Does any one knows what parts do I exactly need and the part numbers as well?

    I was told that I need to get 3 qts of Mitsubishi brand 5W-30 oil, Mitsubishi brand oil filter, Mitsubishi drain plug gasket must be OEM. I didnÂ’t believe them but now IÂ’m not sure as I donÂ’t see a DIY thread re: oil change.

    Also, in a semi-off topic note, I will be installing halogen fog lamps. In case I lose the original bumper clips from the wheel wells (that I will need access to the fog lamp location) or if the clips cannot be reused again, is there a specific size of the bumper clips? Or is it universal? I ask cuz I donÂ’t know.

    I just want to be extra prepared and not overestimate these tasks.

    You may already know this, but the wrench icon is not much different than baking cookies with a timer. The timer itself has no clue to when your batch of cookies are done. Likewise, the wrench icon has no clue about the condition of your oil.

    If you want to remove your wrench icon, this clip is good to watch.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2oBfnBnQ_dc

    There are two maintenance schedules for the Mirage. One indicates 3,750 mile oil change intervals and the other indicates 7,500 mile oil change intervals. I would decide what you plan to do for your driving conditions.

    When I used conventional motor oil in my past vehicles, I did 3,000 mile oil change intervals. Now that I used full synthetic oil, I feel comfortable doing 5,000 mile oil change intervals. Thus, the wrench icon is useless for me. I just delete it every time it appears. I am due for a 75,000 mile oil change in the next week or so. I keep a small tab on my windshield, but don't really need it to keep track of my 5,000 mile oil changes.

    Before I go on, I think it was good that you had the first oil change done early, & that you took advantage of the free dealership oil change.

    Oil - I find it odd that they recommend 5W-30 oil when the U.S. Mirage manuals stipulates 0W-20 oil. Other markets recommend different grades of oil. Having said that, I prefer 5W-30 full synthetic oil myself. I just think it offers better engine protection, but I don't have any data to prove that. If there's a really bad full synthetic oil out there, I am not aware of it. I would use whatever brand you want. Brand name doesn't always = greater quality in my mind.

    Oil filter - I would use a mid-grade quality oil filter. I am going to share Rock Auto's recommended list of G4 oil filters below. I am not suggesting you buy one from them, but they are sort of ranked by quality somewhat. If nothing else, it provides the part number for whatever you decide. If I didn't have the oil filter (Purolator ONE) I like available at my local Farm & Fleet, the Fram Ultra Synthetic @ Walmart (top notch oil filter at a decent price) would be my 2nd choice. The Fram Ultra Synthetic is superior to what I use in my opinion. Wix & others are good, too. I don't think a person needs to over think it. If I was doing frequent oil changes, I would go with a cheaper oil filter. If I was doing long oil change intervals, I would splurge for a top notch one. I sort of pick something in the middle. I am not convinced OEM means anything when it comes to oil filters.

    https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...il+filter,5340

    Oil plug - If you have a socket set with a 17mm socket, you are set for removing the drain plug. A 17mm wrench or adjustable wrench would work in a pinch, too. I personally don't believe a new oil plug washer is needed every time, but it wouldn't hurt to have one available when doing an oil change. The factory ones are a crush washer, which means they crush down when installing them. I sort of went with the Fumoto oil valve route with my Mirage. It eliminates the need for a new washer & a wrench for that matter. I would consider one if you think you will continue to do your own maintenance in the future. I did oil changes without a drain valve for 30 years, too. It's not a must have item.

    Plug your car information into a site like Auto Zone. Then search for items like oil filters & oil. Write down what you like & go buy it at Walmart for less. That's what I do sometimes. There are times when Auto Zone gets my money, too. Walmart may not have Auto Zone's cheap STP oil filters, but they will have the much better Fram Ultra Synthetic oil filter for less money.

    Last suggestion for anyone doing this for the first time -

    Make sure you can loosen the oil filter before draining your oil. You don't want to drop your old oil & then find out you can't remove your oil filter by hand. I am not saying remove the oil filter first. I'm saying check to see if you can twist it first. If you can't, pick up an oil filter socket that fits the oil filter you are going to use. I will pull the oil filter right out of the box in the store when picking the right size oil filter socket to buy with it. I know one should be able to twist one on & off without a wrench, but you didn't put the last one on. Just a heads up on that.

    There are several good You Tube clips on changing oil for a Mirage/G4. I would watch a few for their suggestions, too. Good luck!

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    That's a good thought about checking the oil filter first. But changing the oil without changing the filter is not a show stopper.

    However, if the dealer did the last oil change, they likely either a) did not change the filter (because they suck) or b) used King Kong to tighten the filter (because they suck). In any event, you might as well count on that filter being (overly) tight. I say, just go get a filter cap / wrench thing anyway. My arms just barely fit down in there to get my hand on the filter. If it's too tight, I can't get enough leverage to start it off. There was a thread here somewhere that I detailed the body position I have to get into to get a hand on that filter. I think others have to do a similar thing. If I remember right, you may have large arms too. Even in my position, my arm lays across sharp edges that hurt after 15 seconds of exposure. Never has cut my arm, just pokes it and hurts. I do it anyway because, add some clever insult here to others that wouldn't do this.

    Is this not something you can do at home? I could get this done in an apartment parking lot before anyone could make a beef and/or have anyone do anything about their beef. However, the first time or two certainly takes longer. The worst thing to do is to get in a hurry to get it done. Could wind up very messy that way.

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    Oh, and I don't think your oil looks bad. To me, looking at the stick, it still looks healthy. I've seen MUCH WORSE. Even my Cummins Ram, with regular oil changes, it looks way mo' worster than that.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2020 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 42.4 mpg (US) ... 18.0 km/L ... 5.6 L/100 km ... 50.9 mpg (Imp)


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    Quote Originally Posted by 7milesout View Post
    That's a good thought about checking the oil filter first. But changing the oil without changing the filter is not a show stopper.

    However, if the dealer did the last oil change, they likely either a) did not change the filter (because they suck) or b) used King Kong to tighten the filter (because they suck). In any event, you might as well count on that filter being (overly) tight. I say, just go get a filter cap / wrench thing anyway. My arms just barely fit down in there to get my hand on the filter. If it's too tight, I can't get enough leverage to start it off. There was a thread here somewhere that I detailed the body position I have to get into to get a hand on that filter. I think others have to do a similar thing. If I remember right, you may have large arms too. Even in my position, my arm lays across sharp edges that hurt after 15 seconds of exposure. Never has cut my arm, just pokes it and hurts. I do it anyway because, add some clever insult here to others that wouldn't do this.

    Is this not something you can do at home? I could get this done in an apartment parking lot before anyone could make a beef and/or have anyone do anything about their beef. However, the first time or two certainly takes longer. The worst thing to do is to get in a hurry to get it done. Could wind up very messy that way.

    I am not sure what he means by a DIY shop? Do these shops provide tools and a vehicle lift?

    If I was using a lift, I would probably remove the oil filter from the bottom. It would be a one arm/hand operation, but I am sure you can grab the filter better from the bottom. I don't own a lift, & I have never taken the oil filter off from the bottom.

    When I take my oil filter off from the top, I reach around the radiator hose with both hands. Like just suggested, I can't tighten or loosen the oil filter from the top without an oil filter socket either. I can't grip the filter well enough & twist at the same time from that angle. The correct oil filter socket makes it an easy task, however.

    If you are uncertain about all this, buy your first oil filter from an auto parts store and have them help you pick out a good oil filter socket to match your oil filter. I have both a plastic & metal one. The plastic one would not remove the factory installed oil filter, but it works for the ones I install. The metal ones are better if you have the choice.

    I use both hands/fingertips to twist a loosen oil filter & start a new oil filter. It helps me not drop the oil filter on the floor or into an oil pan. There's not a lot of room to do it from the top, but it can be done.

    I just checked the weather forecast. Today will be the warmest day of this week. Thus, I am off to do my 15th oil change for my Mirage before I take off for driving lessons later today. I will take my Mirage for a short spin to warm up the oil before draining it.

    If you haven't done this before, keep asking questions if you have them. We all start somewhere!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 7milesout View Post
    Oh, and I don't think your oil looks bad. To me, looking at the stick, it still looks healthy. I've seen MUCH WORSE. Even my Cummins Ram, with regular oil changes, it looks way mo' worster than that.
    My old Bolens G174 4WD diesel tractor oil looks worse after 15 minutes. I agree your oil doesn't look bad at all.

    There is no harm in doing the first couple oil changes at shorter intervals like you are doing, however. I would even recommend that. Today's full synthetic oils are quite good, but I don't see the need to keep that 3.2 quarts in there forever. I think a 5,000 mile oil change interval is a good compromise for most, but that's a personal decision. If I did mostly highway miles & racked them up fast, I may do the 7,500 mile oil change intervals. For me, 5,000 miles seems about right.

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    Quote Originally Posted by defensivetackle88 View Post
    I took advantage of the free non-synthetic oil change at Mitsu dealer last summer (mileage showed 3500). Now G4 has 7500 miles on odometer and the wrench icon has appeared.

    Time for me to do the oil change at the DIY shop soon. The oil looks surprisingly dirty, per attached photo.

    Does any one knows what parts do I exactly need and the part numbers as well?

    I was told that I need to get 3 qts of Mitsubishi brand 5W-30 oil, Mitsubishi brand oil filter, Mitsubishi drain plug gasket must be OEM. I didnÂ’t believe them but now IÂ’m not sure as I donÂ’t see a DIY thread re: oil change.

    Also, in a semi-off topic note, I will be installing halogen fog lamps. In case I lose the original bumper clips from the wheel wells (that I will need access to the fog lamp location) or if the clips cannot be reused again, is there a specific size of the bumper clips? Or is it universal? I ask cuz I donÂ’t know.

    I just want to be extra prepared and not overestimate these tasks.

    Look at the FSM or at least in the owners manual!
    In these parts nobody would ever consider using non fully synthetic engine oil. Its just not worth any "savings" because wear is far more expensive. The owners manual has details. Use a high quality oil filter. A fresh oil change does not mean the car has had proper periodical service. There is more to it than that.
    In your picture, the oil looks as expected at that mileage. It probably could do another 3000 miles or so.

    If you proceed with caution, you wil not need to replace the bumper clips! There are numerous different sorts of clips on these cars. They differ in diameter, locking depth, appearance, etc. They are not universal or one-size-fits-all. Only one sort will fit properly, namely the correct sort!

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    Thank you guys for the helpful responses.

    The “DIY shop” that I was referring to is just an auto shop that offers a vehicle lift for customer (me) to do work underneath like engine/transmission oil change, tire rotation, and the likes. I just pay the shop to let me borrow a lift. $12 ish per hour. They also provide tools ie oil drain pan as well. I just have to do the labor.

    I donÂ’t have a yard, garage, or a place of my own to do the oil change unfortunately.

    I previous had done oil change on Toyota Prius 06’ , Corolla 05’, Highlander 05’ and Nissan Titan 04’ at the same shop. The labor on the titan and highlander were a HUGE PITA for me mainly because of the stupid “plastic tray” that was annoying to get it removed by unbolting 8-12 “expensive plastic clips” in order for me to have clear access to the oil filter.

    And the oil filter location on both HL and Titan was a PITA too that I had so much trouble getting it loose, even with the filter wrench. Corolla was the easiest, my goodness!

    I donÂ’t want to do the oil change myself on the HL ever again. I can just pay my mechanic $40 for the labor alone as long I provide the drain plug gasket, filter, and jug of oil. Simple.

    Now, I do hope my G4 oil filter isnÂ’t super tight nor narrow. I have fat arms and hands. Last thing I want is to pay $$$ over time just to get it loose. IÂ’m going to do it myself regardless. I wanna see the G4 underneath, AND will want to insert my halogen fog lamps. Just soon.

    Off topicÂ…weÂ’ll sort of: Costco has this deal that I found it to be more cost effective for my case versus paying separately; $7 for 1 quart of synthetic 0w-20 oil at Mitsu dealer that I was quoted for.

    https://www.costco.com/.product.1470...h=true&nf=true

    Even more so when my HL requires 5w-30 oil as well!
    Last edited by defensivetackle88; 03-02-2023 at 08:15 PM.

  12. #10
    Seems like some guys with the 5spd mirages can reach the oil filter from the top, this is hard to almost impossible to do if you have a cvt with the larger rad fan shroud.
    I don't know if big arms can reach from the top with a 5spd? If you can't reach it from below remove or partially drop down the splash shield that runs along the bottom of the rad support and that'll give way more room to reach up and grab the filter with 2 arms if needed. But if you have the little 1230a105 Mitsu brand filter on there and it's torqued on there at 150lb-ft then you might need a filter socket to break it loose. That's the only "hard" part. And it's not that hard usually unless your rad support got smashed back into the filter(like many work cars that I see...). Drain plug is easy 17mm..

    I'd dump 5w30 in there if I was down south. The difference in viscocity doesn't seem much different than 0w20 but when it's -20c you can tell instantly when pulling the plug(cold oil). I went from a nv200 to a Mirage back to back and the nv with 5w30 came out like syrup compared to the 0w20. I almost wonder if I had 15w40 dumped into my barrel by mistake...It's not though.I did a nonscientific comparison already.


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