Codes galore

[Bovice]

Hey, all. I'm new to the forum. Found some very informative threads on here which is very much appreciated. Seems to be a great community.

I own a 2015 Mitsubishi Mirage ES with about 86k miles.

About 2 weeks ago I went out to start my car (I had started it a few times prior to that and very quickly and shut it off over a 16 hour period, I'd say) and it wouldn't start. Cranked, but wouldn't start. I don't know much about cars, so I was doing a lot of investigating, originally thought the engine wasn't getting fuel, that turned out to not be the case. Had some friends come help, ended up taking the entire air intake off to check the plug, while that happened I did the whole "push in the accelerator" thing to clear the engine of too much fuel and ended up getting it started.

Service engine light was on after that. Wasn't on before I had the issue of it not starting. Drove it for a short distance and the service engine light went off. Got a new air filter for it cause it was looking a little dirty. Not too bad, but figured it couldn't hurt. Just before I made it home, service engine light came on again. Pulled into the driveway and sat with it running for a moment, plugged my scanner in to check and all of a sudden it started idling really rough and the idle kind of fluctuated.

Checked the scanner and got:
P0137
P1590
P0113
P0102
U0001x3

I don't even know where to begin. Anybody have any clue what could have happened? I can post screenshots of the scanner descriptions of those codes. This really isn't how I wanted to join this forum but I'm really not sure what else to do.

[7milesout]

Bovice - Welcome to the forum. Fummins is going to be your man on this. But we got your back in any event.

Rather than me wearing out keys on my keyboard, if you do the following, you will find so much direct info, it'll make you want to slap your grandma.

Go to google and type this: "P0137 mirageforum" & "P1590 mirageforum" & "P0113 mirageforum" and so on.

I already did it for a couple of them. Great info. No need for me to (try to) be the hero here. Just do that search...

[Fummins]

Hey, all. I'm new to the forum. Found some very informative threads on here which is very much appreciated. Seems to be a great community.

I own a 2015 Mitsubishi Mirage ES with about 86k miles.

About 2 weeks ago I went out to start my car (I had started it a few times prior to that and very quickly and shut it off over a 16 hour period, I'd say) and it wouldn't start. Cranked, but wouldn't start. I don't know much about cars, so I was doing a lot of investigating, originally thought the engine wasn't getting fuel, that turned out to not be the case. Had some friends come help, ended up taking the entire air intake off to check the plug, while that happened I did the whole "push in the accelerator" thing to clear the engine of too much fuel and ended up getting it started.

Service engine light was on after that. Wasn't on before I had the issue of it not starting. Drove it for a short distance and the service engine light went off. Got a new air filter for it cause it was looking a little dirty. Not too bad, but figured it couldn't hurt. Just before I made it home, service engine light came on again. Pulled into the driveway and sat with it running for a moment, plugged my scanner in to check and all of a sudden it started idling really rough and the idle kind of fluctuated.

Checked the scanner and got:
P0137
P1590
P0113
P0102
U0001x3

I don't even know where to begin. Anybody have any clue what could have happened? I can post screenshots of the scanner descriptions of those codes. This really isn't how I wanted to join this forum but I'm really not sure what else to do.

Go back and make sure the mass air flow sensor is plugged in properly, 2 of those codes are for maf and air intake temp(part of the maf), Those are the two that could make it run like pooh. They could have been triggered when trying to unflood car with the aircleaner removed as you would have had to unplug it.(electrical connector at the front of air cleaner). I've also seen the prongs bent and not make a proper connection when plugged back in.

the other one is a communication code that just happens when plugging crap into the port obdII port sometimes. P0137 is for the rear O2 sensor circuit, shouldn't affect the way the car runs but can throw a check engine light.

If the maf is plugged in and it still runs like crap make sure all the hose from the air cleaner to throttle body is still connected and tight. And....these cars sometimes don't like to be driven around with junk plugged into the obdII port, the only thing that for sure doesn't cause problems is a "scan gauge" brand device, everything else is a roll of the dice.

Hopefully that made some sense...

If it did subscribe to my youtube thinger so I can get rich and not have to drive a Mirage anymore.

[Cobrajet]

There is a connector under the driver's carpet that can become corroded if it sees a lot of water and/or salt. Mitsubishi issued a recall for it, but if your car didn't have the recall done it might be somethibg to check if you continue having problems.

Also, whenever your Mirage spazzes out check your tail light bulbs. These cars are weird sometimes...

[Fummins]

I'm not sure which is worse, never getting another reply from the op or getting one that only reads "Fixed, thanks guys!" with no answer to what the problem was.

[Nifty_Biscuit]

Checked the scanner and got:
P0137

Oh hey! I know this one! Low voltage to the oxygen sensor behind the Cat Converter. I had mine replaced, but there are a slew of other recommendations in this thread

[7milesout]

Meh, I think he'll be back. Maybe his women gave him a honey-do list...

[Fummins]

Meh, I think he'll be back. Maybe his women gave him a honey-do list...

Good point. I waste too much time on here. Life is a circus.

[Bovice]

Hey, guys, I still exist. The feedback and advice is very much appreciated! I just get sidetracked and forget a lot of stuff.

So, here's what I've done, after I got it started, I bought a new air filter and threw it in for the hell of it. Bought some maf sensor cleaner and use it on the sensor (obviously) and all seemed well until the check engine light came back on. I've read a lot of stuff on the forum about Bluetooth scanners in the OBD port (which is the kind I have, and is also garbage) so I unplugged it and kept it unplugged. Put the incandescent bulbs back in (had aftermarket LEDs in cause I can't see well at night) and after that, check engine light went off and the car was good for almost a day until it came back on again. I've gotten really tempted to plug the scanner back in but learned my lesson so I haven't (last time I plugged it in after I had it out, which was recently, both traction control lights on/off came on and the abs light came on as well like almost as soon as I plugged it in.) the OBD port is also kinda loose and wobbly. I've been going out occasionally and starting it up and letting it idle for a while and noticed that now the exhaust pops while idling and drips water as well (which I noticed before but wasn't too concerned cause "condensation" but this seems different. Doesn't look/smell like coolant and there's not much smoke of either color either) I'm legitimately nervous to drive it because the car is basicallly all that I have. I do doordash currently due to certain circumstances in my life and obviously haven't been able to do it since the "car not starting" incident happened.

I have an appointment to get it looked at next Thursday but I'm still trying to figure out what's going on myself because the sooner the better. If I have to replace anything at this point in time, it's unfortunately not gonna happen because I'm literally broke at the moment. I'm gonna search around on the forum again and see if I can try anything that I haven't already. I will for sure update the thread with any findings I may come up with. Thanks again for the replies, I really do appreciate them.

[7milesout]

I will for sure update the thread with any findings I may come up with.

Bovice - You've done a couple things that make sense. Maybe more. I'm sure you've done things you haven't mentioned on here. But here's my takeaway on the situation.

You're odb-II connector thingie. I've got 2 of these myself. Something like ELM 327. One that I have never causes an issue with my car even when I just leave it in there all the time. The other will cause some weird lights on the dash, trac control maybe if I leave it in. But here's the thing. I wouldn't resist plugging it in and using it for checking and clearing codes. Just pull it back out when you're done. You mentioned taking back out the LEDs. Sounds like you were talking about LEDs in the front because you said you can't see good at night. But maybe it was on the inside. Either way, any bulbs you've replaced with bulbs of a different type, for whatever reason, tends to make the car start having gremlins. Mainly lights on the dash and weird codes. Other guys can explain this much better. But if you've "upgraded" brake lights for example, downgrade them back to the original type of bulb.

So I think 3 things: 1. Replace all "upgraded" bulbs, interior and exterior with original type. 2. Clear your codes, remove your gadget. 3. Use your car and see what codes might come back.

The exhaust pipe popping thing is a bit weird, but when a car cranks up cold, I'm sure it's running some kind of programmed choke cycle. And when doing that, the AFR will be rich. And the result is, some raw fuel will be pushed into the exhaust. Once that raw fuel just happens to start mixing with just the right amount of air, if there's a hot spot in the vicinity, why yes, it will burn. So I'm not so worried about that popping. Follow the 1, 2 and 3 above, and I think you're being just a touch overly concerned about your car. They're tougher than you think.