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Thread: Erratic idle and now check engine light

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    Erratic idle and now check engine light

    To start I bought a this intake from Malaysia cost was $290 usd shipped. About a week after replacing the intake during a cold start the engine hunts all the way up to 2000 rpm. Until the engine was warmed up everything after was normal smooth driving first light was mid-fire detected cylinder 1. Checked plugs, coils, and wiring never determined the cause for misfire. Couple days go by and still erratic idle. The. About a week ago I got P0068 map/maf throttle position correlation, cylinder 1 mis fire and cylinder 1 injector voltage(canít remember exact wording) and the car was barely running. I used the troubleshooting chart in the Mitsubishi manual with the exception of the special tools. This lead to replacing fuel injectors which cured the injector voltage code but the P0068 and misfire were still there. Troubleshooting guide directed me to replace Maf sensor which I decided to go ahead and order both as the code states both but the troubleshooting guide would have only replaced the Maf. The Map sensor is discontinued and from what Mitsubishi parts warehouse costumer service states no dealer in the US has one. Found one on EBAY using the Bosch part number came from overseas not China I canít remember the country. But that part showed up looks great on a Bosch box so it was installed along with a cheapo generic Maf from Rock auto. But it still get P0068 and misfire. Decided to try a different Maf sensor and found one from Advance Auto which showed up as a Mitsubishi oem part for a lot cheaper than Mitsubishi and I am still getting P0068 and the #1 misfire. Thatís were I am at now tomorrow on my day off I plan to reinstall the factory intake and see if itís the issue. The Malaysian intake does not have the crankcase vent tube connection like the oem and I wonder if that could be my issue but I am at a loss. I hope I have enough details and my timeline might not be 100% but itís close. I will try and check back regularly here as I found out some of the notifications from this forum goes to spam I will do my best not to be that guy that disappears with no closure to the problem. I will also attach some pictures and screenshots


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    Dirk Diggler (03-26-2023)

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    I'm confused. How in the h#ll can Mitsubishi no longer carry a part that's critical to the powertrain? What do they expect one to do?

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    That’s a good question, but that is what was told to me. If you search For the part it definitely isn’t easily to find one.

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    I checked on my own car and it definitely looks like both MAF and MAP sensors were made by Bosch. Therefore they must both be available for decades to come!
    The MAF sensor pictured in the white box (B3150-424812) looks exactly as on my 2014 model. They usually do not fail but last forever.
    The MAP sensor has a label on it, "Bosch 0261230358". Note; It will easily be destroyed if dropped!

    What I would do if it were mine:
    Put the old OEM intake and all back in as it was and see if it works OK. Then continue from there.
    Note: The breather hose between manifold and PCV must be connected and always remain connected just as it was when the car was made!
    If it still doesn't run with the OEM intake, have a very good and thorough look at the wiring. I wouldn't buy yet another sensor unless I were positive that it was broken.

    Concerning the butterfly flap, they need to be handled carefully. Fragile! Do not force it open by hand, and do not drop that assembly.


    Edit / PS:
    Just for clarification, my 1.0L European model has both a MAF sensor and a MAP sensor.
    The MAF sensor is located in the output of the airfilter and before the butterfly flap, and senses the amount of air flowing ut of the filter box. The MAP sensor is located immediately after the butterfly and measures the strength of the vacuum within the intake manifold.
    Last edited by foama; 03-26-2023 at 05:46 PM.

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    Bambam234 (03-26-2023),mohammad (03-26-2023)

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    If they were available from Bosch I wouldnít have bought any other and if you know were to get OEM parts that would be greatly appreciated since I have spent countless hours searching and calling. I do plan to put the OEM intake back on to see if it changes anything but I have a feeling it wonít change only because this isnít the first intake put on a mirage. The crankcase vent tube I am referring to is not the one from pcv to the intake manifold but the crankcase vent to the intake after filter on the OEM intake it is on the U - shaped pipe on the back side. Thank you for the throttle body warning but the Mitsubishi technician manual does in fact have you operate the butterfly by hand in certain situations in troubleshooting but I definitely agree donít drop it.

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    North American mirages have both MAP and MAF sensors as well.

  9. #7
    Did you happen to check anything of the wiring that I suggested a while ago. Your service manual probably doesnít show that.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage SE wussie cvt edition. 1.2 automatic: 37.7 mpg (US) ... 16.0 km/L ... 6.2 L/100 km ... 45.3 mpg (Imp)


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    I did go over the wiring like you suggested and I couldn’t find any breaks or any bare spots. I could find the last connector and check the resistance for each wire but I just thought about that sitting here typing this. Unless you know another way to check each wire for breaks you can’t see

  12. #9
    By the looks of your pics, someone put blue wire loom over the map sensor harness and one of the screws to hold your maf in place is half unscrewed. What did you do with your crank case vent hose that's supposed to go into the intake tube?

    So to start from the beginning, your car ran fine then you bolted on an air intake that isn't doesn't have a crankcase vent connection and then you had started having problems with it throwing codes?

    You could either look up the wiring schematics in the service manual then check each wire in the maf and map circuits for continuity between where ever they go(presumably ecu and sensor) or cut(or unzip) the zip ties that hold the wiring harness, cut the electrical tape along the harness from each sensor to the main harness and closely look at each wire, especially where it was zip tied(that's where they usually break). Or you could read live data of the maf and map with the engine running and unplug each sensor and see if the readings change(that'll obviously throw codes that'll need to be cleared). Or read live data while wiggling the harness around if one of the sensors doesn't read anything then you probably have a broken wire and not 2 faulty sensors...

    Personally, I'd put the stock intake back on along with the original sensors and try it out. Post what codes you have after clearing them.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2014 Mirage SE wussie cvt edition. 1.2 automatic: 37.7 mpg (US) ... 16.0 km/L ... 6.2 L/100 km ... 45.3 mpg (Imp)


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    The picture was right before I started chasing wires back from your comment on the other post I stopped to take a picture so I could remember if I forgot something. That’s also why that screw is half out. I put the crankcase vent tube onto an oil catch can. It drove for approximately a week with the new intake before throwing codes. I didn’t remove the zip ties I cut the loom around it but that does make sense I will cut them off and check underneath. I have a scan tool that will read live data I can try that too that’s definitely not in the troubleshooting flow chart. I will try these tonight and I am off tomorrow



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    Fummins (03-27-2023)

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