Oil Change Recommendations

[hank]

Im coming up on 2000 miles and upon reading some threads on motor break in, it appears that there is a very real possibility that there are little metal particles embedded in the oil. Im a little OCD, so im going to do the oil change anyway.

Any oil brand recommendations would be more than welcome.

I was thinking of going Castrol 0-w20 full synthetic.

[mmm]

I'm a little OCD too

I went with O'Reilly's (house brand conventional) 5w-30 for my break in .... it has the lowest amount of detergents and additives among all the major brands I researched (for break in purposes), yet still had the ILSAC starburst symbol (for warranty purposes). Changed my oil at ~250, ~500, will again at 1000, 1500 (will switch to O'Reilly's 5w-20 for winter around this time), and 2000 miles. At 3000 miles onwards, I plan to have my Mirage on Mobil 1's 0w-20 Advanced Fuel Economy full synthetic.

[hank]

I'm a little OCD too

I went with O'Reilly's (house brand conventional) 5w-30 for my break in .... it has the lowest amount of detergents and additives among all the major brands I researched (for break in purposes), yet still had the ILSAC starburst symbol (for warranty purposes). Changed my oil at ~250, ~500, will again at 1000, 1500 (will switch to O'Reilly's 5w-20 for winter around this time), and 2000 miles. At 3000 miles onwards, I plan to have my Mirage on Mobil 1's 0w-20 Advanced Fuel Economy full synthetic.

Aw man, I should've figured this out beforehand, I just got carried away commuting and blew right past the major break in points. I'm pretty sure I won't be making the most peak hp out of all the other mirages but I'm curious to know if there would be any effect other than reassurance at making an oil change now.

Do you think I should just do the change and go on with 7500 intervals? I'm reading in some other forums that the metal found in the engine are too fine to do any damage so for almost all new cars it is perfectly fine to just run it to the first recommended oil change. But there's always that little voice that says change it or it'll blow. Thanks in advance to whomever shares their input!

[mmm]

Experience with my first oil change: the oil on the dipstick looked like honey, but when I drained it, the oil was dark as soot & and a semi-solid dark glop of something fell out onto the oil pan. I'm thinking sludge settled onto the bottom of the oil pan, and this wasn't seen on the oil dipstick. Changed it at 250 and there were alot of (very visible) fine metal particles on the bottom of the oil pan, same with 500.

This is just my personal opinion, but if I were you, I would change it to conventional with a magnetic oil plug (still riding it hard through the rpms in D and B, with a CVT), and change the oil again at 2500, and then consider going back to synthetic at 3000. But that's just me

I'm driving in the city, with combined stop-and-go city & highway driving, so I'm going with the severe duty oil change schedule (every 3750 miles) after that.

[hank]

Experience with my first oil change: the oil on the dipstick looked like honey, but when I drained it, the oil was dark as soot & and a semi-solid dark glop of something fell out onto the oil pan. I'm thinking sludge settled onto the bottom of the oil pan, and this wasn't seen on the oil dipstick. Changed it at 250 and there were alot of (very visible) fine metal particles on the bottom of the oil pan, same with 500.

This is just my personal opinion, but if I were you, I would change it to conventional with a magnetic oil plug (still riding it hard through the rpms in D and B, with a CVT), and change the oil again at 2500, and then consider going back to synthetic at 3000. But that's just me

I'm driving in the city, with combined stop-and-go city & highway driving, so I'm going with the severe duty oil change schedule (every 3750 miles) after that.

I saw in the other thread, it traumatized me to know your findings, haha...........

I'm thinking of going conventional oil until 10k miles (oil change every 2,500 interval, ie 2000, 4500, 7000, 10000) then switching to full synthetic. But there are rumors that its bad to go between different types of oil so I'm a little torn on the subject. What do you think?

[mmm]

The concern, to my understanding and IMO, about switching between synthetic & conventional has to do with more with older engines long after being broken in (with hundreds of thousands of miles on them).

[Ares]

I think if the engine blows up before 10 yrs 100k miles, mitsu will replace it. With that said, I'm coming in for an oil change because my dealership advised me to do so at 4k miles.

[hank]

I think if the engine blows up before 10 yrs 100k miles, mitsu will replace it. With that said, I'm coming in for an oil change because my dealership advised me to do so at 4k miles.

Well im pretty certain the engine wont blow prior to the 100k warranty, I mean this is the same company that builds the evo. But I am vary wary that it may drop off a little in compression due to improper break in. Regardless that is good to know,I wasnt aware that 4k miles was one of the initial dealer suggested oill change intervals.

Also, im pretty sure you are right mmm, im just trying to be very sure before making any moves I may regret.

[Ares]

I would contact YOUR dealer. The reason, I believe, why our intervals here in Houston might be lower than average, is the extreme heat and driving conditions here. Freeway driving is usually at 75-80mph, fast acceleration on stop lights, etc.

Depending on where you live and driving conditions, you might be fine doing 5k-7k.

[aydu]

My dealer's service manager said 7500 for 1st iol change & tire rotation.

Said he'd be pleased to take my money earlier, but that 7500 with synthetic oil is just fine.

With the warranty on the powertrain, I'm inclined to trust him on this.