Valve noise on start-up!

[klroger]

Changing to a thicker viscosity is not a good idea, and will void your warranty. 10W30 can starve your engine for oil, the engine is designed for 0W20, and you should stick with that.

I think you should read the Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act before posting this... If a lawyer got ahold of this, they would run with it right to the finish line!!!

[allrock]

Changing to a thicker viscosity is not a good idea, and will void your warranty. 10W30 can starve your engine for oil, the engine is designed for 0W20, and you should stick with that.

this is not always true, the engine is not just designed for 0w20 look it up on your manual the viscosity range on the manual ddnt specify that, we even use 15W-40 and 5w-40 here the viscosity range very wide depends on the country mitsubishi here also offers 0w20 but it only for a short run but you can still buy it, but personally i dont like the 0w20 oil its so thin, the layer of protection is also thin.

[foama]

Been getting this valve chatter on startup recently. It's gotten colder in the area, so that probably has something to do with it.

Thanks all for sharing the info in the thread. I'm coming up to my first oil change, so I'll see if the issue persists after getting a new oil filter (with the anti-drainback valve/flap). Still on the original factory filter now.

Almost any filter with an anti-drainback valve is better than a filter with none!
There are very substantial differences in the quality of the material used for that valve! Cheapo filters often use plain rubber or rubber-based material, the worst possibility. Better filters use PFTE or FKM. In Europe probably the best filter comes from Filtron, in the States the situation is different.
Actually the startup-rattle isn't valve noise, it is the bearings rattling without oil.

[Eggman]

Actually the startup-rattle isn't valve noise, it is the bearings rattling without oil.

Are you sure it’s not the hydraulic actuator for the variable valve timing?

[AtomicPunk]

Who knew Mitsubishi's tolerances were so sloppy that the bearings would make that much noise, lol.

[7milesout]

10W30 can starve your engine for oil...

Phooey I say. The only time the engine might suffer from oil starvation is at startup. A 10 weight versus a 0 weight is not going to oil starve an engine. This is all assuming the engine is working properly and regular maintenance is done.

I don't know where you guys come up with the source of the noise (not saying anyone is wrong though). I haven't read / seen anything conclusive of what it might be. But I have a theory. My gut tells me it is not a hazardous wear sound. Why? Because it stops so quickly, almost instantly. If it were valvetrain noise, say the valvetrain was really dry, that noise would go away more slowly (as oil begins to accumulate and coat / dampen). Same with it being bearing noise. To me, it sounds like oil flow / pressure is communicating to something. And that something changes position and as a result the noise stops. Or maybe the oil pump makes such a noise before it fully primes itself. I only speculate...

[hflaisher]

Phooey I say. The only time the engine might suffer from oil starvation is at startup. A 10 weight versus a 0 weight is not going to oil starve an engine. This is all assuming the engine is working properly and regular maintenance is done.

I don't know where you guys come up with the source of the noise (not saying anyone is wrong though). I haven't read / seen anything conclusive of what it might be. But I have a theory. My gut tells me it is not a hazardous wear sound. Why? Because it stops so quickly, almost instantly. If it were valvetrain noise, say the valvetrain was really dry, that noise would go away more slowly (as oil begins to accumulate and coat / dampen). Same with it being bearing noise. To me, it sounds like oil flow / pressure is communicating to something. And that something changes position and as a result the noise stops. Or maybe the oil pump makes such a noise before it fully primes itself. I only speculate...

1) No engine in any car should make any noise on startup. When a car makes any knocking noise whenever started, that's engine wear and it will affect the life of the engine. Something is indeed wrong when an engine makes any abnormal noise such as this. Talk to any knowledgeable engineer or technician such as Pat Goss, and they will agree.

2) It is probable that the noise is from the valves/camshaft, since they are on the top of the engine

[Mark]

Changing to a thicker viscosity is not a good idea, and will void your warranty. 10W30 can starve your engine for oil, the engine is designed for 0W20, and you should stick with that.

All that said, mine also has a clatter for a couple of seconds when first started, esp when sitting for a long time. I am looking into:

1) the oil filter. I am using the standard Fram Extra Guard, supposedly highly rated. Post above suggested the Fram synthetic, so will probably try that or some other higher quality filter that keeps the oil in the filter.

2) a pre-oiler, which is a more expensive solution.

I am not sure it this is a flaw in the engine. So far it has not caused any observable oil burning, but clatter = engine wear and eventually it will take its toll.

I would not make the claim that Mirage engines are designed for 0w-20 motor oil. It's just the recommended oil in North America (for economy purposes most likely).

A variety of oils can be used in a Mirage without issue. If you look @ a 2019 (or any other model year) United Kingdom Mitsubishi Mirage owner's manual, these are the different oil you can pick from -

0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-20, 5W-30, 5w-40
10W-30, 10W-40, 10W-50
15W-40, 15W-50
20W-40, 20W-50

You can look for yourself (page 10-4) if you don't believe me -

https://mitsubishi-motors.co.uk/wp-c...ers-Manual.pdf

I would have zero concerns over using any of these oil (according to the atmospheric temperature). I've been using 5W-30 Super Tech Full Synthetic during the summer months, and 0W-20 Super Tech Full Synthetic during the rest of the year. It's been an extremely hot/warm summer for even Wisconsin, and I don't mind having a slightly heavier weight oil in my Mirage. I will be changing back to 0W-20 @ 55,000 miles (currently @ 54,250 miles or so).

Another former member (300,000+ miles on his Mirage) used 5W-30 conventional oil changed every 5,000 miles without any engine issues. Thus, I figure a full synthetic oil changed every 5,000 miles should offer even better protection. Super Tech, Amazon Basics, and Kirkland full synthetic oils tend to be cheaper than most conventional oil.

After observing Farm Project's extensive testing (shown on You Tube) of the major full synthetic oils, I see no reason to pay extra for a brand name oil. Not saying any brand is bad & sales can make them a better deal, too! I really don't think a bad full synthetic oil exist. If a certain brand gives someone a false confidence, the extra money may be worth it I guess?

As far as filters goes, you mentioned using a Fram Extra Guard. I suggest you look up some video clips where guys cut open Fram oil filters. There are several of them. Here is an example -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x80u6p52_OM

I have used Fram Extra Guard filters for decades without issue, but that was back in the day when I did 3,000 mile oil changes using conventional oil. Since switching to full synthetic oil changes every 5,000 miles, I prefer a slightly better oil filter. The cardboard end caps of an Extra Guard don't give me long term oil filter confidence.

The Fram Ultra Synthetic is a much better made filter (maybe the best value available).

I believe Purolator has improve their oil filter line up in recent years, and I shop @ a place that offers them at a reasonable price. I've been using the Purolator ONE (PL14610) 10,000 mile oil filter for my Mirage. If I did longer oil change intervals, I may consider using the Purolator BOSS (PBL14610) 15,000 mile oil filter. If I didn't have such easy access to these Purolator oil filters (I also use Purolator for my Subaru Forester, 4WD compact diesel tractor, John Deere riding lawnmower, & Kawasaki Mule), I would use the Fram Ultra Synthetic for my Mirage without hesitation.

The Wix XP is another one I would use with total confidence, but I am content with the price/value of the Purolator ONE filters (approximately $6.99-$7.99) that I have been using. There are several other good brands out there. I wouldn't go out of my way to buy Purolator (made in the USA). I would just buy the Fram Ultra Synthetic if the Purolator oil filters weren't easily available.

Extra Guard is Fram's cheapest oil filter. The Tough Guard & Ultra Synthetic are the better ones. All Fram oil filters have the same anti-drainback valves (which is a good one), but the filter medium is superior in the Ultra Synthetic.

[inuvik]

The 1.2 3A92 in our Mirages and the 4 cylinder 2.0 4B11 & 2.4 4B12 were all designed and put into production almost 20 years ago. I've been running 5w-30 since my first oil change with no issues after more than 6 years and 100k miles / 160 kilometers. These are pretty tough little motors that are designed to operate in 2nd & 3rd world markets.

[allrock]

Who knew Mitsubishi's tolerances were so sloppy that the bearings would make that much noise, lol.

Thats the reason they stop the 0w20 here its thin and some engine with the maximum tolerance parts suffer because the thin oil cant do its job protecting the metals.