Rear Wheel Misaligned? (UPDATE: some rear axles out of spec; warranty replacement)

[91cavgt]

The beam axle is toed out (tire wear on inside) from the factory right?

Had a thought about something over the weekend. Friend of mine has a car with a beam axle. We were trying to remove the rear wheels and they were rusted on pretty good. I took the hilift jack and put it against the inside of the wheels in an attempt to force them off. Ended up bending the axle a bit and toeing the rear wheels in.

Wonder if something like that would be possible for this? Just jacking against the backing plates instead of the wheels to avoid damage to the spindles / bearings.

The big problem with this is it is not an exact science. So you could do it, but if you bend the beam too far then you are still dealing with the same problem of the alignment not being right. Not to mention that every time the axle is bent that far, it is stressed beyond what it is designed for and it could cause weakening of the rear axle.

[91cavgt]

I had a thought for tracking this issue. I could add a poll to this thread where owners could "vote" to indicate their status on this issue, eg:

1) rear axle replaced under warranty; new axle A-OK
2) rear axle replaced under warranty; new axle also misaligned
3) awaiting replacement axle
4) DIY fix in place to temporarily align axle
5) axle inspected by dealer and deemed within specs; no warranty replacement offered

Multiple "votes" would be accepted.

Any other options I should add?

Sounds good to me!

[R01k]

I had a thought for tracking this issue. I could add a poll to this thread where owners could "vote...

Great idea.

[91cavgt]

Has anyone thought about or tried using the aftermarket sway bar to correct the toe? I'm not sure if the bar is strong enough to hold any adjustment but it may be something to use to help pull the wheels together.

It would not work and here is why. Antisway bars, for the most part, are hollow. So if you put too much stress on them then they will bend and crimp thus making them useless. A solid antisway bar MAY be able to withstand the forces needed to straighten the axle out, but that is a big MAY.

[MetroMPG]

Head to the top of the page to vote / view results.

[BRagland]

The beam axle is toed out (tire wear on inside) from the factory right?

Had a thought about something over the weekend. Friend of mine has a car with a beam axle. We were trying to remove the rear wheels and they were rusted on pretty good. I took the hilift jack and put it against the inside of the wheels in an attempt to force them off. Ended up bending the axle a bit and toeing the rear wheels in.

Wonder if something like that would be possible for this? Just jacking against the backing plates instead of the wheels to avoid damage to the spindles / bearings.

Might work. it's as good as anything else that's been tried.

The only thing I was considering myself, was heating the axle and doing a bend. It's got it's own set of risks, but it does make it significantly easier, and heated metal doesn't loose as much of it's strength when bent compared to a cold metal bend. So you'd preserve the strength, and make it easier, but you could also warp things, which may make your bend "off alignment" itself, not to mention expanding forces could make problems elsewhere...

It's a thought I've had, which may not be so great, but would make this very much easier. Of course, I have a new axle on the way, so will see if the new one is aligned properly or not first!

[deleted user]

0 toe and .5-.7 neg camber on mine.

The axle can be twisted but it must be done right or the axle must be replaced immediately, if there is any sign of structural weakness.

Twist beam axles are fine, as long at they are properly aligned, they can be realigned ONCE and if they do not hold that alignment, then they must be disposed of. A salvage, undamaged axle would be neat to have to mess with the one on your car while having the replacement option.

They need to be assembled in a jig where they are clamped down when the welding is done, or the risk of bad alignment rears it's ugly head. Mine should be left .5 camber, right .7, toe is right at 0. That is within specs with toe very close to minimum. Camber is close to dead center of the specs. I ride mostly myself and the rear seat is gone.

regards
mech

[Eggman]

I had a thought for tracking this issue. I could add a poll to this thread where owners could "vote" to indicate their status on this issue, eg:

1) rear axle replaced under warranty; new axle A-OK
2) rear axle replaced under warranty; new axle also misaligned
3) awaiting replacement axle
4) DIY fix in place to temporarily align axle
5) axle inspected by dealer and deemed within specs; no warranty replacement offered

Multiple "votes" would be accepted.

Any other options I should add?

Can this be arranged as a flow chart?

1. Check alignment (PASS/FAIL)
2. Failed alignment check: Does dealer assume responsibility? (YES/NO)
3.a. Dealer repair: Does dealer solve problem? (YES/NO)
3.b. Owner repair: Does repair solve problem? (YES/NO)
3.b.(1). Which method used? (TURNBUCKLE/LEVER/YELLING/etc.)

[inuvik]

Need a "haven't had it checked yet" box

[Eggman]

That would be a fail at step one.