An interesting observation on fuel economy

[cyclopathic]

The block heater is nice. It was 35 the other morning, I had the heater hooked up for 90 minutes. Scangauge showed a water temp of 89F when I turned the car on. Warm air blowing very quickly. Fairly easy install, I even made a video! http://mirageforum.com/forum/showthr...allation-video

I read an opinion that you want bellypan heaters more than block heater

[wellswebdesign]

I read an opinion that you want bellypan heaters more than block heater

Was that an opinion on block vs. bellypan in a generic sense, or specific to the Mirage? I imagine the reason would be that the bellypan heater would heat the oil in order for the oil to flow better and protect the engine faster. I can see that being the case for other vehicles. The block heater for the Mirage goes right in the same area of the engine as the oil filter, as well as the thermostat housing. I would think it heats the block, oil, and coolant.

In terms of overall efficiency, I would think the block heater would win. It's a ~3" long cartridge that goes in towards the middle of the engine. The heating it does stays more "inside" the engine, compared to a bellypan heater. Aren't they usually magnetic and cover a large surface area? That's pretty much a heatsink for the heat to re-escape.

This entire post was me thinking out loud, so those with actual knowledge or even better thinkers than what I've got, please feel free to correct me.

[cyclopathic]

It was a generic don't remember which car at all.

How much is heater for Mirage? not that I need one it doesn't get too cold around here.

[codenamezero]

Change all your halogens globes to LED and watch the power and fuel be saved.... I have entered four fuel log entries, and you can tell when I put new headlights and replaced all my globes.....

How is that possible??? That seems to imply the alternator is anyways kicking in to condensate the electric load or something

[inuvik]

How is that possible??? That seems to imply the alternator is anyways kicking in to condensate the electric load or something

Any time you can reduce amperage load it will help improve mileage. The alternator does not have to produce as many amps to keep the system supplied with electricity. A car battery only provides the starting power and acts as a "buffer" for power draw. Once the car is started you could disconnect the battery and drive. It's the alternator that is actually providing all the required electricity to run the vehicle.

[MetroMPG]

My wife only gets about 40mpg, while on the same trip, same time of day, to the same area, I get just more than 50. She doesn't drive much faster than me, but her foot is a bit more heavy than mine - quicker starts, harder breaking

Late/hard braking wastes more fuel than hard acceleration. I sometimes teach people how to eco-drive, and the single techique that helps save the most fuel is getting people to read traffic conditions further ahead and avoid rushing in to avoidable slowdowns & stops. Don't just drive based on the tail lights of the car in front of you.

You probably lift of the accelerator and glide into situations that she doesn't, so you're benefitting more from deceleration fuel cut-off (neutral coasting is even better if you can start coasting much sooner, if traffic permits). Also, you likely preserve more momentum -- eg. arriving at the traffic light as it changes to green instead of rushing to the red light and coming to a stop.

[philavine]

The biggest adjustment that needs to be made is with the nut behind the steering wheel!
I consider myself a moderate hypermiler w/ my '14 5mt, pulse and coasting when possible. I haven't tried to hit the stop button when coasting, nor have I tried (yet) shut offs at red lights. I'm curious about the led lights. I bought some fog leds but they didn't work. Do they need converters? And what's with the fantails or heat sinks on the led headlights? What's a good price for LEDs? I've been driving w/ lights on most of the time, but might drop those off in the day and see if it makes a difference. When I drive it at 70 mph w/ the AC on mpg drops to low 40's, otherwise near 50 for me in 50/50 driving at 45-60 mph. I recently upsized tires to 175/70 (to improve stability?) and this should improve mpgs a bit (5.3% to be exact), but it might get offset by the increased width and increased resistance. I'm thinking of getting some smooth covers for my ES wheels (which are fairly flat as they are), and might try a K and N filter, but not planning any other mods. Keep working on the "nut."

I've never gotten close to 55, but again it might be related to the first line above. I've driven metros for years and never got more than 50.

[palebeachbum]

Looking at the fuel log at http://mirageforum.com/forum/emgarage.php

Seems that Mirage owner MPG falls into 3 categories:
- hypermillers with MPG in mid-upper 50s or 60s
- middle of the road group with MPG in 40s (42 to 48)
- low 30s group.

I understand the hypermiller and middle of the road groups. Hypermillers are the ones who see MPG as ultimate challenge, and take additional steps such as shutting off engine, coasting, etc to bring it up. The ones who are getting MPG in 40s are most likely driving in extra-urban cycle with at least 10-15mi or longer commute routes. Not really using hyper-saving techniques, but not kicking tires either.

How could you possibly get consistent MPG in low 30s in this car? Lots of short trips? cold weather? 100% city driving? racing off every traffic light? all above? eh?

Could anyone care to explain?

I live in the suburbs where all the roads around me are 40-45mph. If I get stuck in stop and go traffic with the AC on. I've seen mileage as low as 30 MPG. If I'm cruising along at 45mph, but get every red light, I see MPG in the mid to high 30's. If i get to do a lot of long cruising at those speeds, I see MPG in the low to mid 40's. Running the AC seems to drop MPG a good 5 MPG. That little engine has to work extra hard to overcome the power loss from the parasitic AC compressor.

[Cleartec]

Time to block radiator?

Have you done this mod, if yes plz show me how to do it. If no, can I gain something blocking grill?

[Cleartec]

Late/hard braking wastes more fuel than hard acceleration. I sometimes teach people how to eco-drive, and the single techique that helps save the most fuel is getting people to read traffic conditions further ahead and avoid rushing in to avoidable slowdowns & stops. Don't just drive based on the tail lights of the car in front of you.

You probably lift of the accelerator and glide into situations that she doesn't, so you're benefitting more from deceleration fuel cut-off (neutral coasting is even better if you can start coasting much sooner, if traffic permits). Also, you likely preserve more momentum -- eg. arriving at the traffic light as it changes to green instead of rushing to the red light and coming to a stop.

Istarted coasting more in neutral rather than gear slowdown, because as you mentioned you can let of the gas much sooner. idling gas is less than the gas you spend on the pedal, traveling down the hill or even to a red ligth, so thanks. I have been hitting 25+ km/ L on trip computer with this technique