Engine flush and oil stabiliser

[XxPuNTeRxX]

Hey guys,

Would you use an engine oil flush the one you add before change and let idle 5 mins before you flush the engine?

Would you guys add an oil stabiliser to help with cold startups gets cold in the -20c -30c here. I hear the Zn is bad for most Alu engines.

let me know !

Thanks
1.2 mirage '14

[MetroMPG]

I'm pretty sure the Mirage's stock engine oil is 100% synthetic, so you wouldn't need any kind of stabilizers in the winter if you keep using synthetic oil.

Personally I've never used any kind of oil flush. As long as you don't neglect oil changes, there should not be anything building up that needs to be flushed out.

You might want to look into the block heater threads though -- for more comfort & better fuel economy.

[cyclopathic]

Personally I've never used any kind of oil flush. As long as you don't neglect oil changes, there should not be anything building up that needs to be flushed out.

You might want to look into the block heater threads though -- for more comfort & better fuel economy.

Agree on both counts.

Many cars ago we had valve covers off on engine with 68k. The internals looked like they just rolled off assembly line, sparking silver. Engine had conventional oil for 1st 15k and then Mobil-1 for the rest. That was back in the day when synthetic meant PAO, not re-refined Group-3 conventional oil, but still.

[XxPuNTeRxX]

Hey guys

thanks for sharing your experiences

Anyone know the science behind these products tho? I know the stab will coat with zn the internals. The flush I think removes old additives

I know they are reccomended to use ion low temps with iron cast blocks but what about our 1.2s ?

[jbarr]

For the most part I don't believe any advantage will come from using oil additives, stabilizers, or flushes. Assuming that you are following a regular maintenance schedule and that the engine is getting up to operating temperature regularly then you should see no engine problems due to oil sludging, varnish etc. as suggested by cyclopathic. If you truly are concerned then use a true PAO such as Mobil 1 EP or Penzoil Ultra Platinum, though with a 7500 mile oil change interval I would use any API SN class "synthetic" 0w20.

As to the zinc, it is a good anti-wear additive which used to be in much higher levels than currently in SN or even SM class oils. The reason it is in lesser quantities is because it is known to reduce catalytic converter life. High zinc levels used to be considered a requirement for flat tappet engines, though modern thinking and high quality oils seems to put that requirement in doubt. Regardless this does not apply to our engine. If you are truly interested into the whole debate and intricacies involved in oil specification, there are entire forums dedicated to oil just as ours is to the Mirage.

Personal recommendation, by whichever 0w20 is on sale (usually in oil change kits with filter at autopart store) and change normally at about 7500 mile intervals.

[Harris]

Som1 pl confirm
which pipe to remove and feed Liqui Moly catalytic converter cleaner
Liqui Moly directions (Establish access to the intake tract. Please note that the access must be located immediately behind the air-flow sensor)
So which pipe is intake tract ?

[Eggman]

Som1 pl confirm
which pipe to remove and feed Liqui Moly catalytic converter cleaner
Liqui Moly directions (Establish access to the intake tract. Please note that the access must be located immediately behind the air-flow sensor)
So which pipe is intake tract ?

This is very interesting - first I've heard of a catalytic converter cleaner. Can you please post a link to the product and the instructions?

[Fummins]

Som1 pl confirm
which pipe to remove and feed Liqui Moly catalytic converter cleaner
Liqui Moly directions (Establish access to the intake tract. Please note that the access must be located immediately behind the air-flow sensor)
So which pipe is intake tract ?

You're looking to feed it before or after the air flow sensor? I assume after? The sensor is at the front of the airbox in the picture you posted, with the plug pointing down. The car will run like pooh, if at all once it's unplugged, you might be able to just unbolt/screw it and run it ?

[foama]

Hey guys,

Would you use an engine oil flush the one you add before change and let idle 5 mins before you flush the engine?

Would you guys add an oil stabiliser to help with cold startups gets cold in the -20c -30c here. I hear the Zn is bad for most Alu engines.

let me know !

Thanks
1.2 mirage '14

I would not flush it! Why? because if maintenance is carried out normally and with good products, there is totally no need for that.

Most "oil stabilisers" do nothing else but thicken the oil! You surely don't want that. Use a good quality oil, but beware, just a brand with a famous name does not always mean good quality.

See and compare specification standards, patricularly VW50400 to other specs.

https://online.lubrizol.com/relperftool/pc.html

[Harris]

This is very interesting - first I've heard of a catalytic converter cleaner. Can you please post a link to the product and the instructions?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5efSS31obI