Other maintenance questions about the Mirage?

[cwatkin]

I am reading that the paint on these isn't the strong point. I like the rust through warranty but rock chips are not covered. You see all the discussion about using some super synthetic oil in engines on all the car forums but then a perfectly good engine goes into the crusher because someone didn't take care of the body. One guy commented "What is the point of running high dollar oil if you don't take care of the largest and most expensive component of the car?" It is just that it has no moving parts and is often neglected.

What are some steps besides the usual maintenance if you want these cars to stay on the road a very long time? I see some 3M film to protect against chips. I also see comments about the plastic trim possibly keeping water under the car and causing rust.

I mention this as the Geo Metro wasn't the best about rust issues. That was one of the weaknesses of those cars. How about these?

Conor

[Cobrajet]

It's a little early to say when/if these cars will rust, or where. They simply haven't been out too long. But, as you mentioned, the rust-through warranty is pretty good and that means Mitsu must be reasonably confident.

I am not sure what type of area you live in, but around here pine needles are the scourge of my life. Since this car doesn't have windshield trim (did you notice?), I have found that pine needles are accumulating around the base of the windshield, around the cowl trim, and in the openings for the wiper arms.

Also, it has been noted that there are large, open areas on either side of the cowl where debris can fall down and lodge behind the fenders just to the rear of the front wheel. It is my plan to remove the wipers and cowl trim this spring to remove any pine needles or other debris that could retain water and cause rust. I am hoping I can feed the hose of a small ShopVac down behind the fenders and suck up anything that might have fallen back there.

The rear wheel arches strike me as another place where these cars can rust, so I have made sure to flush any mud out when I give the car it's first 'real' spring washing/detailing.

[deleted user]

Fairly sure the Mirage has one real improvement in paint, which actually is the primer. Modern primers are not paint and thinner as they were back in the old days. I found this out using some of my friends body shop primer which is a 4 to 1 combination that hardens like a urethane epoxy. Leaving a primed panel outside was an invitation to ruined sheet metal, with the new primer it's a different story. Even a couple of YEARS, as long as there is any depth will not rust outside. The old stuff would have been long gone.

Modern design and rust proofing processes will also make a big difference. I have 14k miles on mine now and I'm not seeing what I would consider sub standard paint, but then you get what you expect in most cases. Mitsu's car building history goes back just under 100 years. They know how to make good cars. This one was just done to a price point, funny how quickly it's compared to cars costing thousands more. Driving since 1965, when Mitsu hit the market back in the 70s they were allied with Chrysler and built some real rocket ships. This is the exact opposite and once you really understand THAT, you can appreciate the value conscious design.

I could do with a lot less, doors, gadgets, power things, but then I have to look at myself as an old obsolete design, going back to the under dash "fresh air" flaps on a 1963 Valiant or the fact I could change a dash light bulb with no tools back then.

regards
mech

[Eggman]

I could do with a lot less, doors, gadgets, power things, but then I have to look at myself as an old obsolete design, going back to the under dash "fresh air" flaps on a 1963 Valiant or the fact I could change a dash light bulb with no tools back then.

regards
mech

There's some European market cars you would like. Or you could get an old Jeep.

[deleted user]

Just filled for the whole month of January 9 to today Feb 9. $1.349@ gal, 22.5 gallons, 1190 miles, 52.9 mpg, coldest month of the year typically.

$30.35 cash for the 5 cent a gal discount.
2.6 cents a mile fuel cost.

Should go up from here.

regards
mech

[jbarr]

There is a Diy rust proofing thread on this site which for me was simple and good insurance. I believe one of the best things you can do for paint protection is to wash regularly and apply a modern paint sealant or wax at least semi annual. Also a thread somewhere on fixing chips.

[Daox]

Jbarr is right. All the links he mentioned can be found in the Mirage Modifications, Customizations, and DIY list link at the top of the page. Here they are for easy reference though:

Rust protection:
Rust protection for the inner rear quarters
Rust protection for the rear hatch
Rust protection front/rear doors
Rust protection front/rear wheel well areas


Fix dings:
Charlie's Experience With Touching Up Paint Scratches

[Canoehead]

I wouldn't be too worried about rust if I lived in Arizona or the like, but here, they sand and salt the roads all winter, and there is no way I have found to avoid it (even washing the car, I still have to drive it home). I've heard good things about "Rust-Check" and got that done when I first got mine. Then I saw a good offer for "Krown" and had that done last month. From what I understand, they are both decent products and it is just a matter of the person applying them taking care to get the product in all the nooks and crannies.

I did find the paint on mine to be very weak. I had probably 20 small stone chips already, and have fewer than 10,000km, with very little gravel (maybe 100km total). By contrast, my old Ford Focus had about the same number of paint chips in about 11 years and 200,000km. The hood and wheel wells seem to take the worst of it, so I had Line-X applied to those areas.

[Eggman]

The hood and wheel wells seem to take the worst of it, so I had Line-X applied to those areas.

It is my understanding that a coating's adhesion is only as good as each layer underneath. I would be interested to see how the Line-X holds up over time - that is, if it too chips & flakes off due to the base layers underneath.

[Canoehead]

It is my understanding that a coating's adhesion is only as good as each layer underneath. I would be interested to see how the Line-X holds up over time - that is, if it too chips & flakes off due to the base layers underneath.

My hope is that it won't of course. I'm certainly no expert, but the line-x coating sticks to itself very well, and isn't prone to chipping in the same way a more brittle paint is. If, for example, you placed a blanket over a piece of metal and threw small rocks at it, the blanket would protect the metal somewhat while not showing much damage itself. The forces on the blanket (or line-x) aren't really pulling it away from the paint. I suppose the edges might peel off over time, or if scraped by something, but in the sense of a stone chipping the line-x in the middle, I can't see that happening. Maybe over time it could get "sanded" off by repeated abrasions. Line-x is quite flexible, as demonstrated in the video where they coat a watermelon and drop it off a building . . . or by anyone who has it in their truck bed and dropped a load on it.

I may sound like a booster for the product (no affiliation), and I have only had it a few months so it is too soon to tell, but believe me if it does fail at any time I'll post it here.