Certainly I've not heard anything in the UK, but then it may be one of those things that's subject to a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) rather than a recall; I.E. When you bring your car in to a main dealer for service, they'll reflash the ECU on the quiet. Certainly that's what happened with a couple of things on my old i10 - It went in for an exhaust repair under warranty (yes, really!) and they replaced the headlamp adjustment switch (which was a common fault and subject to an updated part) as well.
We'll see in a week or two; I've got to book my Mirage in as there's a recall on some of the crash sensors; I got a letter through the post the other day. When I take it in I'll see if they're aware of any such campaign over here.
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View my fuel log 2014 Mirage 3 CVT 1.2 automatic: 47.9 mpg (US) ... 20.4 km/L ... 4.9 L/100 km ... 57.5 mpg (Imp)
uheym (05-21-2016)
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View my fuel log 2015 Mirage DE 1.2 manual: 46.4 mpg (US) ... 19.7 km/L ... 5.1 L/100 km ... 55.7 mpg (Imp)
Eggman (05-20-2016)
Thanks Eggman, your calculation table is on par with mine.
Of course you could change the value of the series resistor. As you said, the mod as described is very cautiously dimensioned. As shown in the table the difference becomes close to nill when the engine aproaches operating temperature.
In my daughter's 1998 FIAT 900cc Seicento, R3 is 1700 Ohms, and the sensors are electrically identical, and no problems there either.
Btw: The lower part of the radiator-intake of my 1.0L Space Star is mostly blocked, with about one third left open. In addition, the bottom of the motor compartment has a cover on it. (see other thread)
Never had any heat problems, and can't remember when the fan came on last. Don't have a block heater.
Last edited by foama; 05-20-2016 at 05:23 PM.
Christopher_B (03-03-2021)
UPDATE:
Tried different values for the series resistor in my 1.0L Mirage, and this is what happens:
At 2.500 Ohms everything is fine.
2000 Ohms also works well.
1750 Ohms or less is no good, because the radiator fan will come on too early during warm-up with the radiator still being cool and the thermostat closed. Remember, this car has only one single temperature sensor for everything!
To sum it up:
1) any value between about 2500 and 2000 Ohms is fine.
2) This mod goes much further than the reprogramming of the ECU (USA recall) for enrichment reduction.
3) My car is a 1.0L without(!) EGR valve. Yes, the 1.0L engine without AS&G is sold in Europe without EGR, but the 1.0L with AS&G does have EGR.
I think using valve-overlap is maybe how they keep NOX down at testing-relevant revs and load levels, unless they VW their way out to get better figures...
Last edited by foama; 11-24-2016 at 08:22 AM.
Christopher_B (03-03-2021),Eggman (11-24-2016),MetroMPG (02-28-2021)
Foama, thanks for the update.
I've wondered how your mounting location for the second sensor impacts this modification. It would be nice if it too could be immersed in coolant.
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View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 49.6 mpg (US) ... 21.1 km/L ... 4.7 L/100 km ... 59.5 mpg (Imp)
I just thought of one more thing - what about the intake air temperature sensor? Wouldn't that also affect this?
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View my fuel log 2015 Mirage ES 1.2 manual: 49.6 mpg (US) ... 21.1 km/L ... 4.7 L/100 km ... 59.5 mpg (Imp)
Since I see no feasable way to immerse the additional sensor in coolant, it was mounted as in the picture, being directly on the cylinder head. That is where most heat is generated, and where it gets warm first. The temperature there is just about the same as the coolant within the same head it is attached to.
The air intake temp sensor does a similar job, but most of that input affects ignition timing.
Eggman (11-24-2016)
Wonder how much fuel this actually saves. My car goes into closed loop literally in less than a minute after cold start and well before the coolant gets anywhere near up to temp. The o2 sensors warm up very fast and when in closed loop you are running at stoich. So you are only saving a small portion of fuel for a small portion of time.
Eggman (11-24-2016)