This DIY will include instructions for both painted headlight bezels and a HID projector retrofit.
2 h4 projector kits (bought off ebay)
several standard screwdrivers
black plastic spray paint
RTV black sealant
h1 HID bulbs and ballasts
8 #6 x 1/2" sheet metal screws
1. Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Make sure you remove a rack to make room to bake the headlights.
2. Remove the 5 Philips screws (yellow) and 2 rubber condensation vents (red). Also, make sure all the bulbs are removed and remove the h4 bulb glare shield (one Philips screw from the rear).
3. Put one headlight in the oven at a time and set a timer for 6 minutes 30 seconds. I know, some may say this is too hot, but I've had good luck with many head lights at this temperature. Remove the headlight, be careful, it will be very hot. You'll have about 5 minutes to separate the front from the back of the headlight. There are tabs all the way around the headlight, and those need to be pried up and then use the standard screwdrivers to separate the front of the rear. Repeat the steps with the other headlight.
4. This is what you'll end up with.
5. Tape off the parts of the headlight that you want to leave chrome and orange side reflector. Then use isopropyl alcohol to clean off the existing chrome.
6. This is the black paint that I have always used for headlight painting, and works very well. Use several lights coats. Let dry for 15 minutes between coats. I usually do three coats.
7. Remove the tape and check out your spray job.
8. These are the projectors I used. They are 2.5" projectors that include the h4 adapter plate. They will use h1 bulbs once installed. These can be readily found on Ebay.
9. Remove the three screws (yellow) from the plate that holds the h1 bulb in place.
10. These are the screws I used to attach the black plastic shrouds to the actual projector. For some reason, these screws are never included in the kits, I don't know why.
11. Using the screws from above, attach the shroud to the projector.
12. Install the large rubber washer on the projector.
13. From the front, insert the projector into the hole, making sure the high-beam solenoid wires are ran through the bottom. Slide the h4 adapter plate over the threads and tighten the projector nut. Make sure the projector is level and taught before going on to the next step.
14. The next things is something I do often, but is optional if you want to skip. I put RTV on the sides of the nut to prevent loosening from vibrations. It's up to you.
15. Reinstall the h1 bulb plate from step #9 and tighten the three screws.
16. Admire your pre-oven final step. At this point, preheat the oven again to 300 degrees. I ran a thick bead of black RTV sealant along the seam of the rear housing, just to make sure it's watertight. Combine the front and rear housing, but don't push it together very much, just enough to line up the pieces. Place the assembly in the oven and set a time for 6 minutes 30 seconds. Remove the assembly and push both halves together. I use a channel-lock style pliers and squeeze the seam all the way around, making sure all the tabs are slid over the nubs. Put in the 5 screws from step #2. Once your satisfied it's combined correctly. Set aside to dry and cool completely. Reinstall the 2 condensation tubes.
Here's my end result. I also installed a mini-projector for the signal light and a LED light tube that will be on with the clearance and signal with the signals.
Here's a picture of a h1 HID bulb installed.
All you'll have to do is wire in a HID ballast to the HID h1 bulb, and you'll be set.
Here are some more helpful items you may want to purchase to make the HID installation easier.
H3 male connectors
75mm headlight dust caps
dust caps with wires installed.