What did you do to your Mirage today?

[18slcmirage]

hubby put new hub caps on the mirage for me today MUCH better than the oem hub caps. Attachment 19289
check 'em out in my garage

I like 'em!!!

Attachment 19290
MUCH better than the oem hub caps, right?

nice........

[mitsumi]

Installed a set of 2021 taillights.

Hi Alex1a1f,

are all the wirings the same gor this new TL or it has different connectors.

Planning to get a pair from thailand but not sure what wiring it has.

[Alex1a1f]

Hi Alex1a1f,

are all the wirings the same gor this new TL or it has different connectors.

Planning to get a pair from thailand but not sure what wiring it has.

Yep, all is the same. I posted a thread about this.

[Alex1a1f]

I just did a compression test

160-150-178

Try 'Restore in your next change then try again.

[MetroMPG]

Oof. What's the factory spec?

Sucks to confirm an engine isn't in top health.

This summer I started documenting how much oil my $#!^box Miata was burning - way higher than I actually thought: 1L/1qt every 1500 km/~930 mi. No plans for a rebuild yet.

Miata is getting parked in a week and Mirage The Second is going back on the road!

[MetroMPG]

I fired up the Mirage for the first time since early August to move some old windows...



It'll be returning to regular service at the start of November. Crapcan Miata weather is all but done.

[newtomit]

Took the car in for an oil change. Mechanic said everything was checked out fine. Music to my ears

[7milesout]

I did an oil change yesterday. At 1,044 miles! I know what you guys are thinking, that's too early. And that's the 2nd oil change! Hahaha!

I changed it at 437 miles as well! OK, Ok, ok ... before you guys ask why. Here's why.

When I was working as a design engineer for Toyota, I read about an engine study. I can't remember if the study was done at Toyota Tech Center where I worked, or if it were a GM thing. GM makes really good engines ... at least V8s. Anywho...

The study took like 20 engines right off the assembly line. Each engine was placed on an engine dyno, and ran for the equivalent of 100k miles I believe it was. Each engine ran a different oil change interval ... at least at the beginning of their running. And oil analysis was done on every single oil change for every single engine. Even as much effort as goes into thoroughly cleaning an engine before assembly, the oil analysis always showed enormously higher amounts of metal (even though it was microscopic particles) in the oil of the first couple / few oil changes. And subsequent oil changes showed exponential drops in metal content.

After completion of the 100k mile run, the engines were studied. They did things like a, a max hp measurement, a compression check, tore the engines down, etc. The biggest conclusion was that even though the engines that received no oil changes early on, just regular oil changes had acceptable performance at 100k miles, those engines that had the most frequent oil changes in the beginning always demonstrated higher hp measurements and higher retained compression at 100k miles.

That sank in. Every new vehicle I've bought (which is not many, mostly buy used), has been done this way.

I'll change it again at 2,500 miles, at 5,000 miles, and will then assume the oil change intervals as specified.

And, I need to learn what technique is used to keep from making an oil mess from the oil filter draining. Mitsubishi added a nice drain diverter under the oil filter. But unless one is going to wait an hour for the filter to almost stop dripping, getting up in there to finish removing the filter gets oil on your arm (no biggie) but also causes the oil to drip and run onto things I would rather it not. Leading to it being a bit messy.


7milesout

[Top_Fuel]

I changed it at 437 miles as well!

I first changed my oil at 1,000 miles and sent the oil in for an analysis. It was interesting to see. I'll try to dig it up. I changed it again at 5,000 and had a second analysis done. By then all of the break-in materials were gone.

...I need to learn what technique is used to keep from making an oil mess from the oil filter draining.

Don't over-tighten the oil filter when you install it. That way you can remove it by hand from above in the engine compartment. The only thing I do from below on an oil change is removing the drain plug from the oil pan.

[Mark]

And, I need to learn what technique is used to keep from making an oil mess from the oil filter draining. Mitsubishi added a nice drain diverter under the oil filter. But unless one is going to wait an hour for the filter to almost stop dripping, getting up in there to finish removing the filter gets oil on your arm (no biggie) but also causes the oil to drip and run onto things I would rather it not. Leading to it being a bit messy.
7milesout

I use two oil drain pans to save time. While the oil is draining from the oil pan, I put a second pan under the filter area. I just remove the filter without waiting. Once the filter is removed, I reach down with a rag & wipe off that drain diverter. Oil the seal on the new filter & put it on. I do the oil filter like Top Fuel stated (from the top standing up). By the time I change the filter, the oil pan is drained pretty good. I just use cheap plastic dish wash or kitty litter trays.

I am off to do my 40,000 mile oil change right now. I like doing 5,000 mile oil/filter change intervals. Doing oil changes earlier on a new engine is not a bad suggestion.