DIY! Snapped clutch cable remove & replace

**Top_Fuel** · 03-09-2019, 01:48 PM

I'll post pics of mine when it shows up here in a few days. I bought the same Mitsubishi part that Cobrajet just installed.

**tytotheler92** · 03-11-2019, 12:43 PM

Both my 2018 and my buddies 2015 has the no hex clutch cable....

**A-Aron** · 03-13-2019, 10:26 AM

My car has very low mileage but will probably order one of these cables and coil it in the spare tire as cheep roadside insurance..
my spare tire wells EDC consists of small assortment of general hand tools, first aid kit, jumper cables, and a old car floor mat..
figure if I have a spare and coil it in with the rest, I will never need it.

**Fummins** · 05-29-2019, 07:18 PM

Take one for a test drive to your house and swap out clutch cables with it.

**Cobrajet** · 05-30-2019, 08:26 AM

Originally Posted by Fummins

Take one for a test drive to your house and swap out clutch cables with it.

Good idea, but maybe try swapping from your car to the wife's. The clutch cable should only take about 20 minutes to swap out of one car and into the other. You will only need a pair of pliers, a Philips screwdriver, and a 12mm box-end wrench. In case it isn't clear from this thread, the steps are:

1) Using the Phillips screwdriver to loosen the clamps, remove the intake boot that goes between the airbox and the throttle body. This will allow you to easily get at the clutch release lever.

2) Use the pliers to remove the split pin that holds the clutch cable clevis on the clutch release arm. Unscrew the clutch adjustment nut enough to remove the clevis from the arm, then pull the cable through the adjustment nut bracket.

3) Use the 12mm wrench to remove the bolt that secures the cable to the shock tower behind the battery. You can leave the battery in place (unless maybe you have gorilla hands).

4) Use the Phillips screwdriver once again to remove the plastic panel under the driver's side dash. These clips can be tricky. If you push too hard on them while you are unscrewing them they, well...won't unscrew. Once all three are unscrewed you can just pull the panel off.

5) Reach up under the dash to the top of the clutch pedal pivot and unhook the clevis from the clutch pedal. This may require a little contortion.

6) Pull the clutch cable out of the car from the engine compartment, being mindful of how it is routed.

Installation is the reverse of removal. Repeat the process on the other car, swap in the known good cable, and see how it feels. Adjust the nut on the cable to allow about 3-4mm of free play in the release arm.

Let us know what you find!

**Eggman** · 05-30-2019, 10:04 AM

Nice write up, Cobrajet.

Once the cable is disconnected it should be easy to see if it is the cause of the problem without swapping.

**Cobrajet** · 05-30-2019, 12:22 PM

Originally Posted by Eggman

Nice write up, Cobrajet.

Once the cable is disconnected it should be easy to see if it is the cause of the problem without swapping.

This is likely true, if you know what a normal cable is supposed to feel like when disconnected. The swap is so easy I'd personally do it just to be sure.

**Erroniously_Spelt** · 05-18-2020, 07:08 PM

Thank you so much for this thread!!!

Mine failed while sitting at a stop light in BFE. I was able to start in first and powershift to get home. The pressure fitting where the cable in sealed onto the end failed. you can see the cable imprint on the lead end... it's just shoddy workmanship. being as this failed at 128k miles for me, I will get no help from mitsu...